I had this useless 2.5 mil Y cable coming with ma rhodium, and was looking at the small hole with pain and sorrow until I came with the idea and chop it off.
this wouldn't be any best written how-to, there are good ones out there, like this:
http://mrkunkel.com/2009/05/22/custom-htc-touch-pro-video-out-cable-howto/
but none for Y cable.
COLORS:
1-WHITE-video out (is used for mic with headset)
2-BLACK-audio R
3 & 4 - now this is treachery!!!!! they are together coming on RED wire!!!!!
........3 - RED - sense video (button with headset)
........4 - RED - sense headset
5-BLUE-audio GND
6-GREEN-audio L
there is a yellow wire just cut short but not connected, NO this is NOT the wire you would think it is. it's just not connected on the other end as well.
how to separate them without cutting through usb-hub (the 11pin) connector? Just take the pin4 out from outside, break it with needle. Twist it from side to side till it surrender.
after it's gone, the RED goes with BLUE to common RCA (sinch connectors) ground
Related
Does anyone know if you can get the connector that plugs in to the bottom of the blue angel,, either a bare connector or one that is fully wired with a lenght of cable atached? i'd like to have the ability to use serial, charge and hopefully hands free.
Hello everybody,
3 days ago, i came back of my holiday. It was real good.
But, Yes there always is a but
Some pictures of mine were taking with my Herald, and it was dawn.
I can't see a thing because it's to dark.
Is there an seperate USB-flash or something? Wich would allow me to take pictures at night.
Thanks in advance,
ElProempie
unfortunatly not but you can build it youself
you'll need 1USB-miniusb cable
X number of LEDS depends on voltage.
find some miniusb schematics. specialy volt cables
and start building.
djjeanb said:
unfortunatly not but you can build it youself
you'll need 1USB-miniusb cable
X number of LEDS depends on voltage.
find some miniusb schematics. specialy volt cables
and start building.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hhmmm
very interesting project, could you help me to find schematics, i tried but found nothing.
i'll look into it
if you are looking for schemes you can try here:
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
good luck
Pin Name Description wide part down left to right
1 VCC +5 VDC
2 D- Data -
3 D+ Data +
x n/c or connected to GND (may be via resistor). Used as a cable detection pin.
4 GND Ground
Cable colors:
Pin Name Cable color Description
1 VCC Red +5 VDC
2 D- White Data -
3 D+ Green Data +
4 GND Black Ground
just the measure voltage comming out and then decide wich LED u can use
Phone flash (any cell phone)
If anyone is looking for a camera flash, this is an interesting option.
http://www.phonephlash.com/
Not expensive an reliable.
@Zedman007: I can make one for not even 10 euros.
And ill stick with my alternative, thank you!
Quite a nifty idea that phonephlash product. Would be nicer if htc developed one as an add-on to the usb port though, which wouldn't look out of place.
Try this link if the one above doesn't work.
http://www.phonephlash.com/meet.html
As another member pointed out, you could just use a pocket torch. I have one of these already on my keyring but would never have thought to use it for taking pics.
Some nice ideas...
Hi folks,
I hope this helps someone out there. I didn't have a USB A female to USB micro A male On-The-Go (OTG) cable, they are rather rare. So I made my own. I have it plugged in right now and both my keyboard and mouse (Logitech K350) communicate to the bluetooth dongle, which is plugged into this cable, and into the Q and working fine.
This is how to make one:
Cut the female USB A female end off a USB extension cord
Cut the male USB micro A end off a USB micro extension cord (the micro A looks squarish, the micro B looks trapezoidal. Both will fit in the Q's receptacle. This should be possible to do with a micro B end too, but I didn't try it.
Solder the wires together, matching color to color. Tape up the wires so they don't touch.
Now you'll notice the "big" USB has four pins and the micro USB has five pins. And you soldered four wires. So what about that fifth pin? Open up the micro A connector. Most of them are fused shut but you can usually slit it on either side with a knife and open it like a clam shell. Find the fifth pin (it'll be the only one not connected to anything). Short that pin to the ground pin using a bit of wire or solder. You can figure out which one is the ground pin either by looking at the wire color (should be black) or consulting a micro USB pinout diagram.
Glue the clamshell back together again.
Plug in your keyboard and/or mouse (dongle or otherwise) and it should work! Does for me! Not only the basic keyboard/mouse functions but also many of the special keys, like the special "play" / "pause" / etc buttons at the top. Esc is back.
davidnhutch said:
Hi folks,
I hope this helps someone out there. I didn't have a USB A female to USB micro A male On-The-Go (OTG) cable, they are rather rare. So I made my own. I have it plugged in right now and both my keyboard and mouse (Logitech K350) communicate to the bluetooth dongle, which is plugged into this cable, and into the Q and working fine.
This is how to make one:
Cut the female USB A female end off a USB extension cord
Cut the male USB micro A end off a USB micro extension cord (the micro A looks squarish, the micro B looks trapezoidal. Both will fit in the Q's receptacle. This should be possible to do with a micro B end too, but I didn't try it.
Solder the wires together, matching color to color. Tape up the wires so they don't touch.
Now you'll notice the "big" USB has four pins and the micro USB has five pins. And you soldered four wires. So what about that fifth pin? Open up the micro A connector. Most of them are fused shut but you can usually slit it on either side with a knife and open it like a clam shell. Find the fifth pin (it'll be the only one not connected to anything). Short that pin to the ground pin using a bit of wire or solder. You can figure out which one is the ground pin either by looking at the wire color (should be black) or consulting a micro USB pinout diagram.
Glue the clamshell back together again.
Plug in your keyboard and/or mouse (dongle or otherwise) and it should work! Does for me! Not only the basic keyboard/mouse functions but also many of the special keys, like the special "play" / "pause" / etc buttons at the top. Esc is back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking for this? $2.50 per includes shipping on amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005N55WHI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00
Well then...
The can bus unit I have is for Ford Explorer and is being used in my 2005 Ford Freestyle with a Pumpkin 6.95" (7") Kit Kat DVD etc etc unit.
Bought around late Oct or November to replace a Cheap Walmart DUAL display that I bought for the car. I did add the can bus to that unit as well.
What has happen that this week, the radio would never shut down when key was removed and door opened. It would stay on with a display.
I have used Custom roms from all developers and updated the MCU to latest. So I thought yup, something bad with software, but that was proven to be wrong.
I contacted Pumpkin support and they said to test it by cutting the red wire (ACC) and connect to the car lighter. That is the understanding that the car lighter goes off. Mine does not, stays powered up.
But since I work as R&D and been in electronics for well over 55 years, I decided to look into the decoder.
1. It has a 16 pin plug with only 8 being used. Of the 8, take 2 out for power (constant and ground), 2 for can bus communication.
2. out of the 4, 1 is used for the ACC control (Red)., 1 for Illumination control (Orange), another had a cut Violet (purple) wire. A brown wire I did not trace at all.
The ACC wire connected to the cars ACC wire directly. This is the starting point to see why I had 12 volts when it was supposed to go away after so many seconds.
Internally of the can bus, 3 circuits that I found where controlled by P-Channel MOSFETS. These are transistor like on-off switches. A regular transistor controlled these MOSFETS to apply 12 Vs to the radio 3 wires.
1 was for the Illumination (Orange), the other in my case (Red) for ACC control. and the Purple one, well wire was cut. The MOSFET outputs (one side of the switch) had a large current diode that would apply
12 volts to the wires (Red, Orange and Violet). Well, the ACC one was a more hefty diode. The diodes are used to block the Cars 12V from directly connecting to the MOSFETs thus they are called Blocking Diodes.
I check the leads of the 3 MOSFETS with a digital ohm meter. The leads on the MOSFETs that I was concern are the S (source) and D (Drain). These are used like a switch contact. The G (Gate) is like the lever
which is controlled by the internal processor.
I had 1 MOSFET that was shorted S-D meaning it will have 12 V all the time on the lead which was the Red lead.
Since the Violet wire was cut and not used, I used that to replace the shorted one. These MOSFETs are 2.8 Amp components and are Surface Mount Devices (SMD).
Now the question is, how did this SMD short. The diode is still good, it most likely could short if the ACC circuit went to ground. The ACC wire of the car connects to the radio like the Can Bus. If thats the case, the control for that would also be bad, but with the Cheap DUAL radio, that works ok. So I think, it simply went bad, maybe because my trip just a week ago was in the Southwest of the states where the outside was 120 degrees F in the shade.
I have yet to put the radio back in the car to test it. Hopefully I get it back Saturday and see, but I'm sure it should be ok. I did inform Pumpkin of the results since part of my job (which is in the Medical Device Field) is to find why things fail and resolve it.
Now, how would on solve this on your own, .. Well, look at your radio and check which wire controls the function that seems to be working incorrectly. Mine was ACC Red wire. The Can Bus circuit Delays the shut down of the radio I think via the Can Bus. Cutting the wire that connects to the can bus that controls that signal (red) and see if the radio shuts down when you remove the key and open the door (Car ACC now controls the shutdown of the radio.
I wonder if a Diode should be put into the wiring between the ACC of the car end to the radio ACC input and tie the can bus ACC to the radio side ACC.
Kind of like Car ACC plug ------>| -----.--------Radio ACC in
|-------Can Bus Red wire
When the car ACC is 12 volts, it powers the Radio.
When car ACC goes away the can bus powers ACC to radio for time out.
Don't know..
I hope this helps.. I kind wonder off sometimes.. But I hope you understand
Wayne
It does help -- thanks! As my unit doesn't use CANbus, it would be even more helpful for me if you could sketch out the whole interconnect between CANBus adapter and head unit (with connector & pin #s identified), including how they both connect to the car.
I would expect to see a standard (TXD & RXD) UART serial port connection between CANbus adapter and head unit, probably at 38.4Kbaud. Curious too what MCU device they use in the CANbus adapter, though that is purely curiosity; not likely to be able to get to the code inside it.
dhmsjs said:
It does help -- thanks! As my unit doesn't use CANbus, it would be even more helpful for me if you could sketch out the whole interconnect between CANBus adapter and head unit (with connector & pin #s identified), including how they both connect to the car.
I would expect to see a standard (TXD & RXD) UART serial port connection between CANbus adapter and head unit, probably at 38.4Kbaud. Curious too what MCU device they use in the CANbus adapter, though that is purely curiosity; not likely to be able to get to the code inside it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try to drum up a schematic of this for you and others.
i will include a sample of the p-mosfet info as well.
the connector, i will try to locate correct pin numbers, if not, a drawing of it
Oldpapa49 said:
I will try to drum up a schematic of this for you and others.
i will include a sample of the p-mosfet info as well.
the connector, i will try to locate correct pin numbers, if not, a drawing of it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have figured the wiring pretty much. Schematic I'm still working on.
At the CanBus side.. a 16 pin plug. 8 are used. looking at the wire end with retainer tab up starting from the left 1= BLK, 2= GRN (MSCAN+), 3= ORN Illumination, 4= BRN Brake in (Parking Brake)
next 4 blank.. 9= YEL (+12V Battery), 10= GRN/BLK (MSCAN-), 11= RED ACC, 12= VIOLET (No Connection, cut wire)
The radio on FORDs use MSCan buss, not the High Speed type.
This my radio and info: https://www.amazon.com/Touchscreen-Navigation-Receiver-Explorer-Mirror-link/dp/B016UL0WU0
Back to work
Hmm. No other connections to the HU? I take it this system doesn't support steering wheel keys?
dhmsjs said:
Hmm. No other connections to the HU? I take it this system doesn't support steering wheel keys?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has swc1 and ground.
2005 car.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Oldpapa49 said:
It has swc1 and ground.
2005 car.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so it uses resistive ladder keys then.
dhmsjs said:
Ok so it uses resistive ladder keys then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. The canbus use in this car is very limited. It is suppose to work with the Entertainment system, but nope. New cars but not this model.
Oldpapa49 said:
Yup. The canbus use in this car is very limited. It is suppose to work with the Entertainment system, but nope. New cars but not this model.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can bus works now. Repair works.
Sent from my SM-G930T using XDA-Developers mobile app
Hi Folks,
I am in need of wiring hardness for the MTCD (PX5) uni so i can connect to an external power supply so i can configure at home (no internet connection at parking lot).
I will use a computer PSU i have spare and connect to the head-unit but i don't know what cables i need and where to find them .
Any idea where can i find one ?
Thanks
Alex
ale_kons said:
Hi Folks,
I am in need of wiring hardness for the MTCD (PX5) uni so i can connect to an external power supply so i can configure at home (no internet connection at parking lot).
I will use a computer PSU i have spare and connect to the head-unit but i don't know what cables i need and where to find them .
Any idea where can i find one ?
Thanks
Alex
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
would like to know as well
in all devices that i tested at home i found you need at least a power supply of 12V 15amps.
Power supply i use here
As for connecting the unit Red and yellow wire to +
and black to -
best way is to get a Universal Male ISO Radio Wiring Harness
some units use a small thin red wire now just for signal.
your devices should have the a wiring schematic either glued to the case or in the instructions book.
make sure the unit is properly fused and get spare fuses before attempting the above.
I use a small sla 12v battery from wheel chairs and power-wheels. Then i have a couple of spare harnesses from ebay. The harnesses on these radios are generic and can be had for about $4 USD like this one Link
Hello,
I have the following HA:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IPS-4GB-RAM-Android-8-0-Octa-Core-Multimedia-DVD-Player-GPS-Navi-Stereo-Radio-for/32966326918.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dmQoxfP
I would like to configure this HA in house, my question is that it is possible to connect to a PC power supply? If yes, how?
Thanks in advance,
@neosnd On my unit I had a thick yellow (batt +12v) and thick black (ground). Thin red (Acc +) which is your ignition feed (so unit has a constant 12v on the yellow, red 12v+ turns the unit on)
On a computer PSU (search ATX pinout) like this: http://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF - you want to find a 12v (pin 11 or 12 - Yellow 12v+), ground (any "com" - pin 3,5,7 but in our case easier to use 24 (near 11/12)) and for our purposes you can just twist the red acc+ into the 12v power (yellow) so the unit is always on. If not just use one of the spare 12v. then all we need to do is short the "PSU on" (Pin 16) to any ground (pin 16 to 17 with a paperclip if you want to mcguyver it like I do) - then power switch on computer PSU turns the power on and off.
Check to see if your unit has a pinout on top, mine had a sticker saying which was the 12v, ground etc which I worked this out from. If not, google your car stereo pinout, see where the 12v, ground and acc+ feeds are and mirror them onto the plug to your unit.
Hope this helps!