****DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ARE TIMID, A FIRST TIMER OR GENERALLY UNEASY ABOUT TEARING DOWN YOUR 600$ PHONE! THIS IS MY EXPERIENCE AND RESULTS ARE DEPENDANT ON YOUR ABILITY TO COMPLETE THIS TASK! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DAMAGE DONE BY YOUR HANDS TO YOUR PHONE IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM!****
Well, I must say that it looks F$#!ing awesome! The whole process was horrid for me though. This is how it went.... I start to take apart the phone and notice that the screws are not like my evo 4gs were. The screws are a torx T5 and all I had was a T6! So I tried like hell to fit it in the screws with no luck, I ended up stripping one out, and had to leave one in, luckily it was at the opposite end of the phone! This is how you do it.
YOU WILL NEED:
1. SOLDERING IRON AND SOLDER
2. T5 TORX SCREWDRIVER
3. ATLEAST 4 0603 LEDS OF YOUR COLOR CHOICE.
4. SOAKED WASH CLOTH.
5.HTC TOOL KIT OR WOODEN WEDGE OR POPSICLE STICK.
6. TWEEZERS
7. TOOTH PICK TO HELP REMOVE THE RIBBON.
8. RAZOR BLADE.
9.BALLS OF STEEL!!!!...... REALLY!
GET T5 TORX SCREWDRIVER AND BEGIN REMOVING THE SCREWS. THERE ARE 4 OF THESE AT EACH CORNER OF THE PHONE. YOU ALSO WILL SEE 2 TINY PHILLIPS SCREWS, ONE NEAR THE SD CARD AND THE OTHER ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE. AFTER REMOVING THOSE YOU MAKE SURE BATTERY AND SD CARD ARE REMOVED. TAKE AN HTC PHONE TOOL KIT OR A WOODEN POPSICLE STICK OR WOODEN WEDGE TO PRY OFF THE BACK OF THE PHONE. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PUT TO MUCH PRESSURE ON ANY ONE AREA OF THE PHONE ESPECIALLY THE SCREEN AND CORNERS. AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SCREEN THERE IS A SMALL GREEN BOARD WITH A RIBBON ATTACHED AND A PIECE OF TAPE ATTACHED TO HOLD IT IN PLACE. WITH THE UTMOST CARE REMOVE THE TINY CLEAR TAPE COVERING THE RIBBON ON THE BOARD, REMOVE THIS TAPE WITH YOUR TOOL AND POP THE LITTLE WHITE LATCH THAT IS HOLDING THE RIBBON IN. TAKE THE BOARD OUT AND TURN IT OVER. NOW YOU WILL SEE 4 TINY ( THEY REALLY ARE THE SIZE OF A GRAIN OF SAND) WHITE LEDS. NOW THIS IS WHERE MOST WILL GET SCARED OFF... THE LEDS MUST BE REMOVED WITH A RAZOR BLADE. YOU MUST BE EXTREMELY GENTLE! REMOVE THE LIGHTS SO THAT ALL YOU SEE IS THE POINTS ON THE BOARD WHERE THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE SIDE ARE TO BE SOLDERED. NOW LOOK AT YOUR BOARD AND MAKE SURE THAT THE 2 WHITE PATCHES ARE ON TOP, NOW SOME LEDS ARE DIFFERENT THAN MINE BUT ON THE BOTTOM THERE WILL BE A "T" SHAPE. MAKE SURE THE BIG END IS ON THE LEFT. NOW GET YOUR SOLDER AND IRON TOGETHER. TOUCH THE METAL POINTS ON THE BOARD FOR ONE OF THE LEDS TO HEAT UP THE METAL SO THE SOLDER WILL ADHERE TO IT. WHAT I DID WAS PUT A MINUTE AMOUNT OF SOLDER ON EACH CONTACT POINT BEFORE PUTTING THE LED ON, THAT WAY ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS SET YOUR LED ON TOP OF THE CONTACT POINTS AND SOLDER THEM. TOUCH THE CONTACT POINT WITH THE SOLDERING IRON TO HEAT THE METAL AND ADHERE THE LED TO THE BOARD. BE CAREFUL YOU DON'T TOUCH THE PLASTIC ON THE LED BECAUSE IT WILL MELT.... VERY FAST. THE LED SHOULD BE SOLDERED ON NOW IF YOU DID EXACTLY WHAT I SAID. BOTH POINTS MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE BOARD AT EACH END OF THE LED AND NOT TOUCHING ONE ANOTHER. NOW REPEAT THIS 3 MORE TIMES! IT TOOK ABOUT AN HOUR TO DO THIS. REATTACH THE RIBBON TO THE BOARD GENTLY AND CLAMP THE WHITE PIECE BACK DOWN, AND REASSEMBLE YOUR PHONE. CROSS YOUR FINGERS, PRAY AND HAVE A BEER READY! TURN THE PHONE BACK ON... IF YOUR LEDS CAME ON THEN YOU HAVE SUCCESS IF NOT, DRINK YOUR BEER AND RELAX FOR A BIT, THEN RESTART THIS WHOLE PROCESS OVER.MAKE SURE BEFORE YOU START TO HAVE A SOAKED WASH CLOTH, HTC TOOL, SOLDERING IRON, TWEEZERS AND YOUR SOLDER. BEFORE YOU START TO BREAK YOUR PHONE DOWN HEAT YOUR IRON SO ITS READY WHEN ITS TIME. THE WASH CLOTH IS TO KEEP YOUR IRON TIP CLEAN OF DEBRIS. I DID RED ON MINE AND LIKE I SAID ITS AMAZING!
ENJOY!
**++** I can perform this operation for you at your expense. Fee of 30$. Free return shipping and your choice of red, blue, green or yellow,Or any combination you choose.
photos
Photos of the finished product! Tape can also do this but its not worth it to me with the fading and all. I hope you all like it!
Looks nice! I'm a puss tho, I wouldn't attempt it
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
boostbounds4 said:
****DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ARE TIMID, A FIRST TIMER OR GENERALLY UNEASY ABOUT TEARING DOWN YOUR 600$ PHONE! THIS IS MY EXPERIENCE AND RESULTS ARE DEPENDANT ON YOUR ABILITY TO COMPLETE THIS TASK! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DAMAGE DONE BY YOUR HANDS TO YOUR PHONE IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM!****
Well, I must say that it looks F$#!ing awesome! The whole process was horrid for me though. This is how it went.... I start to take apart the phone and notice that the screws are not like my evo 4gs were. The screws are a torx T5 and all I had was a T6! So I tried like hell to fit it in the screws with no luck, I ended up stripping one out, and had to leave one in, luckily it was at the opposite end of the phone! This is how you do it.
YOU WILL NEED:
1. SOLDERING IRON AND SOLDER
2. T5 TORX SCREWDRIVER
3. ATLEAST 4 0603 LEDS OF YOUR COLOR CHOICE.
4. SOAKED WASH CLOTH.
5.HTC TOOL KIT OR WOODEN WEDGE OR POPSICLE STICK.
6. TWEEZERS
7. TOOTH PICK TO HELP REMOVE THE RIBBON.
8. RAZOR BLADE.
9.BALLS OF STEEL!!!!...... REALLY!
GET T5 TORX SCREWDRIVER AND BEGIN REMOVING THE SCREWS. THERE ARE 4 OF THESE AT EACH CORNER OF THE PHONE. YOU ALSO WILL SEE 2 TINY PHILLIPS SCREWS, ONE NEAR THE SD CARD AND THE OTHER ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE. AFTER REMOVING THOSE YOU MAKE SURE BATTERY AND SD CARD ARE REMOVED. TAKE AN HTC PHONE TOOL KIT OR A WOODEN POPSICLE STICK OR WOODEN WEDGE TO PRY OFF THE BACK OF THE PHONE. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PUT TO MUCH PRESSURE ON ANY ONE AREA OF THE PHONE ESPECIALLY THE SCREEN AND CORNERS. AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SCREEN THERE IS A SMALL GREEN BOARD WITH A RIBBON ATTACHED AND A PIECE OF TAPE ATTACHED TO HOLD IT IN PLACE. WITH THE UTMOST CARE REMOVE THE TINY CLEAR TAPE COVERING THE RIBBON ON THE BOARD, REMOVE THIS TAPE WITH YOUR TOOL AND POP THE LITTLE WHITE LATCH THAT IS HOLDING THE RIBBON IN. TAKE THE BOARD OUT AND TURN IT OVER. NOW YOU WILL SEE 4 TINY ( THEY REALLY ARE THE SIZE OF A GRAIN OF SAND) WHITE LEDS. NOW THIS IS WHERE MOST WILL GET SCARED OFF... THE LEDS MUST BE REMOVED WITH A RAZOR BLADE. YOU MUST BE EXTREMELY GENTLE! REMOVE THE LIGHTS SO THAT ALL YOU SEE IS THE POINTS ON THE BOARD WHERE THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE SIDE ARE TO BE SOLDERED. NOW LOOK AT YOUR BOARD AND MAKE SURE THAT THE 2 WHITE PATCHES ARE ON TOP, NOW SOME LEDS ARE DIFFERENT THAN MINE BUT ON THE BOTTOM THERE WILL BE A "T" SHAPE. MAKE SURE THE BIG END IS ON THE LEFT. NOW GET YOUR SOLDER AND IRON TOGETHER. TOUCH THE METAL POINTS ON THE BOARD FOR ONE OF THE LEDS TO HEAT UP THE METAL SO THE SOLDER WILL ADHERE TO IT. WHAT I DID WAS PUT A MINUTE AMOUNT OF SOLDER ON EACH CONTACT POINT BEFORE PUTTING THE LED ON, THAT WAY ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS SET YOUR LED ON TOP OF THE CONTACT POINTS AND SOLDER THEM. TOUCH THE CONTACT POINT WITH THE SOLDERING IRON TO HEAT THE METAL AND ADHERE THE LED TO THE BOARD. BE CAREFUL YOU DON'T TOUCH THE PLASTIC ON THE LED BECAUSE IT WILL MELT.... VERY FAST. THE LED SHOULD BE SOLDERED ON NOW IF YOU DID EXACTLY WHAT I SAID. BOTH POINTS MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE BOARD AT EACH END OF THE LED AND NOT TOUCHING ONE ANOTHER. NOW REPEAT THIS 3 MORE TIMES! IT TOOK ABOUT AN HOUR TO DO THIS. REATTACH THE RIBBON TO THE BOARD GENTLY AND CLAMP THE WHITE PIECE BACK DOWN, AND REASSEMBLE YOUR PHONE. CROSS YOUR FINGERS, PRAY AND HAVE A BEER READY! TURN THE PHONE BACK ON... IF YOUR LEDS CAME ON THEN YOU HAVE SUCCESS IF NOT, DRINK YOUR BEER AND RELAX FOR A BIT, THEN RESTART THIS WHOLE PROCESS OVER.MAKE SURE BEFORE YOU START TO HAVE A SOAKED WASH CLOTH, HTC TOOL, SOLDERING IRON, TWEEZERS AND YOUR SOLDER. BEFORE YOU START TO BREAK YOUR PHONE DOWN HEAT YOUR IRON SO ITS READY WHEN ITS TIME. THE WASH CLOTH IS TO KEEP YOUR IRON TIP CLEAN OF DEBRIS. I DID RED ON MINE AND LIKE I SAID ITS AMAZING!
ENJOY!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mad props bro, excellent job.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Nice job man you should do that in the side for extra money
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Lol ya , I was very hesitant about posting it just for that reason. But I bought 50 more LEDS so I can do it for people on the side. ;-)
thanks for the support guys!
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Well done man.
Go big or go home right?
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Axe-08 said:
Well done man.
Go big or go home right?
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes Sir...
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Good write up on this. I just used blue electrical tape. 4 weeks now and hasn't faded.
thanks
This was my first write up on here... Thanks!
Would any one be interested in a camera LED mod? I just cooked something up and its pretty awesome.
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Now that's impressive. I might try it on one I'd my old phones after I get some soldering skills
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
I am too SCARED to even attempt. No more insurance on my phone since I cut my contract.
Coffee and Hip-Hop!!!
If you would like this done, I provide insurance on all items shipped to me! So if I break it your covered for a replacement! Insurance is 5 bucks extra because I have to pay for it monthly. But for 35 bucks you can get your phones LEDS changed and arranged any way you like. I also provide other services such as: a root/ unroot service, unbricking service for most cases.Shoot me a PM... Also once I receive the phone it will ship back out the same day ... Free!
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
boostbounds4 said:
If you would like this done, I provide insurance on all items shipped to me! So if I break it your covered for a replacement! Insurance is 5 bucks extra because I have to pay for it monthly. But for 35 bucks you can get your phones LEDS changed and arranged any way you like. I also provide other services such as: a root/ unroot service, unbricking service for most cases.Shoot me a PM... Also once I receive the phone it will ship back out the same day ... Free!
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you post up pics of what the other LED colors look like when lit? I'm pretty interested in this, but wanted to see what the other colors look like.
I haven't used any other colors on my personal phone but I have on others... Unfortunately I didn't take photos. Google 0603 led and the color you want to see, should pull some photos. Trust me the yellow I did 2 days ago was by far my fav! I love my red and the red theme from *steals red*
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Lights still working perfectly after 3months!
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
I'd pay ya to do it to mine. Fortunately I've got my standard Evo4G. Email me at [email protected].
I'm on vacation for 2 more weeks, but I'm very interested in having you do this to my E3D! 40 bucks total?
E3D'ed... Booyah!
Anyone else looking for this service, feel free to comment here or email me at [email protected] Com!..
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Related
Okay, I finally made ten posts, so here is a full walkthrough. I hope you like it!
The case I used:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P0YJBG/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details
Cable to buy:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-UUSBHAUB1RA-Feet-Micro-Cable/dp/B003YKX6WC/ref=pd_cp_e_4
Really, any micro-usb cable should work, but I like the right angle on this one.
Powermat reciever:
http://www.amazon.com/Powermat-Batt..._1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1326948784&sr=1-1
As near as I can tell, any of them will work, but this one is really cheap.
Total cost of all three components is less than $20.
Step 1:
Destroy the plastic housing on the powermat reciever. When you get done, you should be left with something that looks like this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/g9baja3sx4qnc7g/20120118_223732.jpg
Obviously, this one has a usb tip already soldered on to it. We'll get there.
Step 2: Clean all of the sticky stuff off of the powermat with an exacto knife or rubbing alcohol, then remove any leads from the four terminals across the bottom. (There should only be leads on pad 1 and 4).
Step 3: Cut your usb cable in half, leaving around an inch-and-a-half of wire on the end with the micro-usb connector. You can throw away the other half.
Step 4: Now for the hard part. Strip back the black exterior about a half inch, and trim away the braided shielding. Cut all of the wires off EXCEPT the red and black wires. These are your ground and your lead wires. Then VERY CAREFULLY strip them. I would recommend just scoring the material and pulling rather than trying to cut it and remove it without damaging the wires inside.
Step 5: Now position the unit with the black magnet upwards and the four terminals towards you. Solder the red lead wire to the far left terminal, and the black lead wire to the far right.
Step 6: Place a piece of electrical tape over the soldered wires to reinforce them.
Step 7: Trim away as much of the plug end as you feel comfortable with. If you cut the perforated part off, you can get the wire to run straight down and fit much more neatly.
Step 8: Place the unit in the case magnet-side up, and push the plug through the usb port hole in the bottom of the case. It should now look like this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/245em6bj2clmm8r/20120118_224257.jpg
Step 9: Put your phone in the case, and plug the usb tip in. Your phone will now charge on a Powermat charger.
Step 10: Profit???
Final product in case:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zmgvnwomuphbv67/20120118_222845.jpg
I'd be interested in seeing this, those seem like a pretty cool idea.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk
Cool. I ordered a case that I think it will fit in to and I'll document it and post it.
TannerBlair said:
Cool. I ordered a case that I think it will fit in to and I'll document it and post it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ill be checking up on this
I'll be keeping up as well!
Sent from my AT&T cellular device.
Ok, the case will be in tomorrow, but I've been using it sans case since I made the first post and so far it works great. Charges fine, and doesn't seem to cause any other issues. Now if only I had a way to post pictures...
Where is it on sale for $1.99? I'm interrested in this too...
okay guys, walkthrough with pics should be up in no time!
Excellent concept but it adds a bit too much bulk to the phone for me. Would love to buy an inductive charging system that replaces the battery back and adds little or no bulk to the phone.
I can see where you're coming from, but it actually doesn't add that much. The powermat unit is thinner than the hump at the bottom of the phone, so the only perceived added bulk is really just the case.I initially considered soldering the leads straight in to the phone, but there is the remote chance that you could absent-mindedly have it on the powermat and plugged in to your computer, and there is a good chance you could wreck your phone. If I had to guess, this is why they don't make ones that replace the battery.
If/when I make a version 2, I am going to play around with making my own adapter as well. I think that i could cut down on a lot of the plug bulk by doing so.
Looking closer at it, I can see that the magnet induction assembly IS pretty small. In that case, my biggest problem becomes the TPU case - I can't stand the feel of those things.
Looking forward to version 2 if you decide to go ahead with it. Just an idea - is there such a thing as a USB pass-through microUSB connector?
Nice. may have to give this a shot.
I love the idea, and really would like to see some pics.
Why is it almost none of the Android phones get the power mat love?
Sent from my SGH-I777 using xda premium
Drop Box doesnt work
None of your images open. Try using imgur
I still don't see the pics...
Sent from my SGH-I777 using xda premium
Seriously though, the powermat is American ignorance at its peak. A magical pad that charges your phone without wires! OK, what about the wire connected to the powermat? That's a wire, and unless your buddy has a powermat as well, you have to unplug the power mat to use it on the go. So convenient! Not to mention the extra girth it adds to the device. Effectively doubles the weight on most phones as well. People, its not that cool. Just use the cord that came with your phone. There's a reason radioshack marked them down from $50 to 10.
Sent from my SGH-I777 using xda premium
Next on your hitlist: Logitech forums and their wireless mice/keyboards.
Questions: Could you take a picture from the side of the Powermat receiver sitting on the back of the phone with the battery cover off?
And, do you want some hosting? Be happy to mirror the images.
Pics don't work. They're just blank white squares
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using XDA App
Would love to see the pics re-uploaded for this walk through.
Oxy
1.) Remove the two Screws
2.) Take a small flat head screw driver and starting at the corner, put even presser and slowly slide it all the way across to unseal the adhesive.
3.) Once you have broken the seal, use the screw driver to lift the "clip" portion of the plastic above and off the alluminum.
4.) Using your nail, take the bottom of the plastic near the release button of the phone and slide your nail to seperate it.
5.) Once you wiggle the bottom piece it should come right off.
6.) Do the same basic process to remove the top piece of plastic.
7.) After breaking the adhesive on the top piece just put even pressure from underneath to pop the plasic up and off of the frame.
I've successfully done this to two back covers, and polished and reassembled them, I am not responible for you breaking yours, do at your own risk!!!
As long as you do it carefully, you should remove them fairly easily!
Good Luck!
Good! That is a very good tutorial. Never thought the whole back was of metal. Nice job!
It looks really awesome.
Thanks!!!
Happy to help!!
Sent from my PI39100 using XDA Windows Phone 7 App
Hey thanks!!!
I just did it (and broke 1 side of each of the 2 buttons but I did it too fast ^^ )
But doesn't matter I can use the camera and on/off button like normal
Nice tutorial
Yeah? Sorry man but to remove the buttons you just have to lift up on the rubber part connecting to the frame. they are also just attached to it with a small dab of adhesive! You could use a glue/adhesive like loctite or something to reattach them when you reassemble them!
Let me know if you need any pictures to help
Is there any way i can replace the mother board myself? I have seen several broken primes for sale on the cheap.. if i bought one could i take its mother board and put it in mine?
Search for the on line TF201 teardown's and see if you think you have the skills
Possible:Yes
Easy:No
Sent from my ASUS Eee Pad Transformer Prime TF201 using xda app-developers app
I replaced mine, it wasn't too bad really.
It all worked out well?
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
If you have to ask, the answer is no. Nothing hard about it (well, I only took the screen off mine to look at the camera, not removed the main board), but plenty of things that can go wrong if you're not familiar with this sort of work.
An hours work at most, unless something breaks...
ThatFool said:
It all worked out well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep everything went fine. My camera works now too
Did this last night. I ended up buying a prime off ebay that had a shattered digitizer but the motherboard was still usable. So your gonna need some very specific tools to do this:
precision screwdrivers
tweezers (an extra small pair to pull the connectors apart)
metal spudger pry tool (use this to pry the screen apart from the body)
plastic spudger pry tool or equivalent (i use the black polymer ones)
patience (most essential tool in my opinion)
Of course the fundamental thing here is that i am not responsible for what you may do to your tablet if you utilize this advice.
1) Start by removing any covering that you may have on the tablet and of course it will need to be removed from the docking keyboard as well.
2) Next look at the bottom of the tablet and locate the two slots in which the tablet docks with said keyboard and identify the small depression in each respective slot. Once located use the smallest screwdriver in your precision set and slide the tab to the right. This should reveal a white arrow in each slot and allow the release of the tabs on the glass digitizer.
3) Now take your metal spudger and begin working it between the digitizer and the metal body of the prime slowly working your way around the tablet releasing the plastic tabs as you go. CAREFUL! If you pry to hard the glass digitizer could break! Gentle pressure is all that is needed to free the screen from the body. Pay close attention to the corners as they are held down with a strong adhesive and should be worked apart from both sides.
4) Once the screen is free from the body you should see that there are several ribbon cables that connect the assembly to the body. These have to be separated using the plastic spudger. There are tabs that the ribbons attach to that must be released before the ribbons will release. Use the spudger to gently pry them up and the cables will release easily.
This gets you into the tablet. The rest is straight forward. Just removing screws with the smallest Phillips screwdriver and molex cable connectors with the tweezers.
Hope this helps!
Again, i am not responsible for what you may do to your tablet if you utilize this advice.
Sent from Transformer Prime TF201 with a new Motherboard! Take that ASUS!
ALL HAIL MOTHER BOARD!
...
Sorry, couldn't resist
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
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Click to collapse
I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
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Click to collapse
I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
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hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
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Click to collapse
I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
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I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
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Click to collapse
I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!
I have had my Ultra Z since January. Zero problems, but this morning I removed my USB charger at work and a rubber gasket (see pic) fell out. Now the door does not close properly. I have the gasket and tried to work it back in but it would not go. There is a small tab and I cannot tell if it goes up (towards the screen) or down. I think I can get it back in with a toothpick or similar but want it to stay (and not lose it) and for it to re-seal the door properly. Not being able to close the USB door is a BIG deal to me.
I had been meaning to get a docking charger but bought some from China and they were crap. Guess I'll have to break down and get a real DK30.
The o-ring goes on the door.
Tab to back by the looks
Glue it back? What kind of glue?
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
mknewman said:
Glue it back? What kind of glue?
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
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Click to collapse
Try crazy glue very very small amount and please let it dry fully before putting the cap back into the phone!!!
Jammol said:
Try crazy glue very very small amount and please let it dry fully before putting the cap back into the phone!!!
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Click to collapse
Thanks Jammol. I'll try to figure this out. When I place it in the position it appears to belong in (now that I look closely I can see the small tab indention on the cap) but the part is so small I cannot even handle it with my big fat fingers, and don't really have a magnification station and stability setup to do it.
Big question is for the people who have had the cap break off, is there a source for the whole cap? Is it possible to install without taking the whole phone apart? Would it make sense to just throw it away and forget it was there?
mknewman said:
Thanks Jammol. I'll try to figure this out. When I place it in the position it appears to belong in (now that I look closely I can see the small tab indention on the cap) but the part is so small I cannot even handle it with my big fat fingers, and don't really have a magnification station and stability setup to do it.
Big question is for the people who have had the cap break off, is there a source for the whole cap? Is it possible to install without taking the whole phone apart? Would it make sense to just throw it away and forget it was there?
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Click to collapse
I don't know what part of the world you are in but you can check these out. Couple folks have bought them:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-Son...zer_Ersatzteile_Werkzeuge&hash=item2339fdd95e
I say just replaced the entire cap with one of those and call it good. Mine is experiencing the same thing, tearing off little by little. I think that is where water might be getting into my phone, but I'll be replacing the phone soon anyways. Just not sure what to get yet.
I have not gotten mine wet yet other than rain in my pocket but the lines are much better with the cap on than removed, and I'd worry about the edge material getting pulled off the rest of the phone. I appreciate the ebay refrence and will try to find a US version. So is there a way to remove the old cap without breaking it off internally and having the tab rattling around inside?
I ordered a couple of the caps and a magnetic charger off thEbay US, but seller was in Spain so it will be a while. Crappy design trying to get rubber to adhere to plastic.
Does anyone know how to safely remove the old one? Just yank? slip something very thin in to try to get the tab to ride over the notch?
Thanks,
Marc
Super glue is what bonds o-rings to other materials because of the greasy slippery surface. Mine has also come loose. Contact glue, industrial glue or anything else wont bite on that thing because of its chemical resistance that the o-ring has.
try to get a hold of a bottle of Loctite 401 meanwhile if you can't wait for the parts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOCTITE-401...Instant-Adhesive-Super-Glue-20g-/121407567300
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
Apply with a pin or paper clip I take it?
SÜPERUSER said:
Super glue is what bonds o-rings to other materials because of the greasy slippery surface. Mine has also come loose. Contact glue, industrial glue or anything else wont bite on that thing because of its chemical resistance that the o-ring has.
try to get a hold of a bottle of Loctite 401 meanwhile if you can't wait for the parts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOCTITE-401...Instant-Adhesive-Super-Glue-20g-/121407567300
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mknewman said:
Apply with a pin or paper clip I take it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mmm something like that I dunno really.. I've yet have to figure this out myself lol. Use your imagination! :laugh:
At my moms work when I was young they had superglue bottles from loctite with really tiny metal pipes attached on them I wonder what loctite model that is. They could be used to do any precision work!
So it's possible to get the new one in properly once I get the old one out? From this picture it appears the new tab should slide in but I'm worried if you have to tug hard to get the old one out.
SÜPERUSER said:
to remove the old one just pull..just a bit harder ...its kind of some bend at the end of the flap that's holding the thing in place inside the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
calm down...just pull on it. You won't break anything
edit: its no big deal to get the new one in
Great! Thanks, that's a relief. I'll let ya'll know how it goes when I get it. May buy a few extras too.
I got the replacement parts from thEbay tonight. Pulled on the old one and it came right out. Took 2-3 tries to get new one in. Tether was bunching up. Turns out if you hold it at about 45 regress it goes right in.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Sent from my C6833 using XDA Free mobile app
gutted!
I am so gutted i didn't see this thread before I sent my phone to Sony for warranty repair.
My gasket didn't fall off, it started to come unstuck so was hanging off and when closing the lid the gasket would unroll and the lid would open.
I sent it to Sony as I think this is there fault. The gasket should stay attached for the duration of the warranty.
They want to charge me £55 for repair, handling and shipping!! I have had my claim escalated and now they say 'upon further inspection the device is bent'!! They are willing to send it back free of charge should I not want to have it repaired...... But should I now expect the device they send back to me to bent when I know full well it was in near perfect condition when I sent to them?!?!
The bottom line is follow instructions from this thread. DO NOT send your phone to Sony.
Sony use 'authorised repair centres' so they don't even know what is going on with your device and the trust you put in Sony to give your device to a respected engineer is misplaced.