Related
Topic says all
If someone has (or had) the time to make a guide about this it would be nice
prodigyfied said:
Topic says all
If someone has (or had) the time to make a guide about this it would be nice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have got the OS.nb , do you needed?
This can be of use We'll talk in skype about that
I'm also asking about physical disassembly of the device
I took one apart and put the good cover from one with a damaged screen onto the one I had with a scuffed cover.
It was successful but a real pain in the butt.
Take off back cover/battery cover. and unscrew the screws you can see.
Next bit is the hard bit and I just did it by brute force, but you then need to take off the white pearly bit around the camera, as other screws are hidden under there. I just used a small screwdriver and edged my way around the top, but it was pretty firm and took some getting off.
Once that was off, I undid two more screwsand that allowed me to edge off the black section where the battery sits from the main phone bit (green computery hardware bit sorry, I'm not very techy!! ) I again did this slowly but it needed some force as it's very very snugly fitted. There are some black clips as part of this middle section that you can push inwards to release the front with screen and keyboard and reveale the phone inards.
You immediately notice the ribbon attaching the camera to the main motherboard/phone and it pops out . I then unscrewed the 4 tiny tiny screws attaching the screen to the frontof the phone and very gently prised the whole phone guts out and immediately dropped it onto the new front I had ready. Screwed the screen back in place and also one other ribbon plugs into the motherboard from the keyboard Front section.
Trickiest part was re screwing the screen screws as they were teeny and I had to use tweezers to hold em in place. Then replugged in the bottom ribbon (Think it was power button? ) and placed the battery section back on top of the motherboard bit.
Another tricky bit was re attaching the ribbon from the camera as I had to almost close the black battery section and just leave a tiny gap and use the flat end of my tweezers to gently push the ribbon connector in. It's doable but bloomin fiddly.
After that I clicked as much of the battery/middle section back onto the front/screen and keyboard section, but inevitable it's not quite as fixed as it was, and there are signs that it's been taken appart as I found it impossible to take appart with out some force and some of the plastic clips were either bent ir broken in doing it. I screwed the screws back on and put back the white section round the camera - luckily everything started up and worked OK, but I'm sure I could have easily messed it up
Its a very fiddly thing to attempt. I only did it as I'd got two handsets reasonably cheaply and wasn't risking much. But it's a phone that obvioulsy wasn't made with cover changes in mind. LOL Once fully put together again it's robust and no loose bits, and everything working fine.
Daisy xx
i had one of those lovely phones (despite what everyone else says, i loved that mobile) and eventually, after a LOT of use, it became useless so i took it apart. i cant remember how i did it exactly, but it got to the point where i could take the entire thing apart, put enough parts together for it to work and then re-asemble it again. it was a great thing to show to friends at college as none of them really knows whats inside mobiles there.
i miss that phone
then again, i now have a vox
At last...
So glad to see someone has written down a guide on how to take the Lobster apart. I have been trying to dismantle mine and can only see me breaking it as I can't see any way in. I will try your step by step guide daisy...thanks for that. I'm also a proud owner of a vox now but I do have miss my Lobster and would quite happily use it again if need be. Thats if I can get it apart and fix it of course!
Thanks Dayzee, nice article
if anyone puts apart their lobby soon, please make some photos, and share them here, I think it'd be useful too
Hi,
I recently purchased a HD2 on eBay. It was supposed to come immaculate but unfortunately there are dents on almost all corners. Rest if perfect.
I saw on eBay some chinese sellers selling new housing + battery covers for ~25 USD. So why not replacing the housing then? I decided to give it a try.
Well I have to say that it really did not work like in the videos I saw on youtube. I removed the 4 screws under the battery cover, gently pressed the back of the LCM outward but it really refused to pop out (no even half an inch). I discarded the pry tool (a very thine credit card actually) and even tried using a suction cup on the digitizer to pull it backwards but same problem. It's like the LCM/chassis was glued on the bezel. Phone has never been disassembled before (white sticker and void screw were still both there).
This is strange because in all the videos I saw the LCM/middle chassis was clearly not glued on the bezel. It immediately popped out a bit then you could start prying (and praying!). Ok I know that in those videos usually the phone has already been disassembled before so other attempts require less force to do it again for the recording.
My questions now to all the people who managed to do this. Did this require so much force? Is there a change and is HTC now glueing this part the LCM/middle chassis to the bezel? Any suggestion? Where is for you the best place to insert the pry tool when you start?
Thanks and regards,
Try flexing the plastic bezel above the earphone outwards a little while applying slight pressure to the sticker area on the back. There're two notches above which locks the frame to the pcb.
Hi,
Thanks for your help.
I will try that later.
I guess I might need to find a better pry tool.
BR.
Ok I managed to do it.
This required clearly some force on the pry tool (actually I used two plastic cards : a very thin and flexible one than a credit card). I started the operation above the earphone area.
Applying pressure on the sticker area was stresfull because the LCD immediately reacted to the pressure (hence a risk to break it or damage it). Best was to put two fingers on the sticker area to help the LCM module to pop out but with (almost) no pressure.
I had a doubt and now that I managed to remove the housing it's gone. The antennas (those white stuff you see in both top corners and at the bottom) are glued to the housing.
I prefer to spend a few more bucks to take a housing which has those antennas already in.
BR.
i had a similar frustrating experience to yours in trying to snap the back off the chassis on my hd2 which had a fingerprint on the *inside* of the camera cover glass which i needed to open it to get at.
it sure looks easy in that HTC disassembly video on youtube but the tech there is using a sort of plastic hooked tool for the job, which i didn't have, so i used my thumbnail instead in the same place (the upper left corner, looking at the phone from the front) and it took me a good 20 minutes of applying what seemed like unreasonable pressure to my touchscreen and nearly tearing my nail off to get it to pop out.
those snap-tabs the electronics manufacturers use to hold cases together -- even when they also have screws to do the job -- are one of my all-time pet hates. i usually end up breaking them off.
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
fallenmonk said:
I will be doing the same thing soon. So the housing you removed has antennas glued to it ?. Thanks for that, I will try get new housing with antenna together if possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep they are white thin bits glued to the top portion of the case. wifi on left and phone on right if i remember. its been quite a while though since i took my old hd2 apart
Now that I know how to do this I will be easier next time.
Yes antennas are glued in the housing so best is to buy a housing which has antennas already in.
Important note : the antenna which is at the bottom of the housing exists in two different versions : EU or US so check with the seller which one he sells.
BR.
Top left : Amphenol-BT&Wifi-090820
Top right : Amphenol-GPS-090820
Bottom : Amphenol-EU-090828
If T-Mobiles US you need Amphenol-US
sirec said:
I replaced my screen a while back and can confirm the main body of the hd2 is glued to the sides of the chassis.
It does come out but with a lot of force but pry the glue lose around the whole chassis first by sliding a thin card right ot the bottom of the case and slowlyu move and pry it upwards with 2 cards one on the top and other on the right after you losend the glue. the top has the wifi adapter n that so be careful bottom has usb so mite break.
honestly i would say don't bother replacing it and just get a gel case or something to hide the damage. there's a high chance of messing the digitizer up and would just cause you more trouble of taking the whole phone apart bit by bit and trust me the components are tiny so easily breakable especially the ribbon cables they decided to use. my honest opinion don't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't believe it's glued. as far as i can see the the case is held together with screws and plastic interlocking tabs. the trick is to get the latter to unclip.
No glue indeed just notches locking the LCM module to the bezel
Ok case closed
I got my new housing and the replacement went fine. For those who could be interrested I bought it on ebay from the seller forceviewer_uk in China. Everything went perfect so I can recommend this guy.
****DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ARE TIMID, A FIRST TIMER OR GENERALLY UNEASY ABOUT TEARING DOWN YOUR 600$ PHONE! THIS IS MY EXPERIENCE AND RESULTS ARE DEPENDANT ON YOUR ABILITY TO COMPLETE THIS TASK! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DAMAGE DONE BY YOUR HANDS TO YOUR PHONE IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM!****
Well, I must say that it looks F$#!ing awesome! The whole process was horrid for me though. This is how it went.... I start to take apart the phone and notice that the screws are not like my evo 4gs were. The screws are a torx T5 and all I had was a T6! So I tried like hell to fit it in the screws with no luck, I ended up stripping one out, and had to leave one in, luckily it was at the opposite end of the phone! This is how you do it.
YOU WILL NEED:
1. SOLDERING IRON AND SOLDER
2. T5 TORX SCREWDRIVER
3. ATLEAST 4 0603 LEDS OF YOUR COLOR CHOICE.
4. SOAKED WASH CLOTH.
5.HTC TOOL KIT OR WOODEN WEDGE OR POPSICLE STICK.
6. TWEEZERS
7. TOOTH PICK TO HELP REMOVE THE RIBBON.
8. RAZOR BLADE.
9.BALLS OF STEEL!!!!...... REALLY!
GET T5 TORX SCREWDRIVER AND BEGIN REMOVING THE SCREWS. THERE ARE 4 OF THESE AT EACH CORNER OF THE PHONE. YOU ALSO WILL SEE 2 TINY PHILLIPS SCREWS, ONE NEAR THE SD CARD AND THE OTHER ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE. AFTER REMOVING THOSE YOU MAKE SURE BATTERY AND SD CARD ARE REMOVED. TAKE AN HTC PHONE TOOL KIT OR A WOODEN POPSICLE STICK OR WOODEN WEDGE TO PRY OFF THE BACK OF THE PHONE. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PUT TO MUCH PRESSURE ON ANY ONE AREA OF THE PHONE ESPECIALLY THE SCREEN AND CORNERS. AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SCREEN THERE IS A SMALL GREEN BOARD WITH A RIBBON ATTACHED AND A PIECE OF TAPE ATTACHED TO HOLD IT IN PLACE. WITH THE UTMOST CARE REMOVE THE TINY CLEAR TAPE COVERING THE RIBBON ON THE BOARD, REMOVE THIS TAPE WITH YOUR TOOL AND POP THE LITTLE WHITE LATCH THAT IS HOLDING THE RIBBON IN. TAKE THE BOARD OUT AND TURN IT OVER. NOW YOU WILL SEE 4 TINY ( THEY REALLY ARE THE SIZE OF A GRAIN OF SAND) WHITE LEDS. NOW THIS IS WHERE MOST WILL GET SCARED OFF... THE LEDS MUST BE REMOVED WITH A RAZOR BLADE. YOU MUST BE EXTREMELY GENTLE! REMOVE THE LIGHTS SO THAT ALL YOU SEE IS THE POINTS ON THE BOARD WHERE THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE SIDE ARE TO BE SOLDERED. NOW LOOK AT YOUR BOARD AND MAKE SURE THAT THE 2 WHITE PATCHES ARE ON TOP, NOW SOME LEDS ARE DIFFERENT THAN MINE BUT ON THE BOTTOM THERE WILL BE A "T" SHAPE. MAKE SURE THE BIG END IS ON THE LEFT. NOW GET YOUR SOLDER AND IRON TOGETHER. TOUCH THE METAL POINTS ON THE BOARD FOR ONE OF THE LEDS TO HEAT UP THE METAL SO THE SOLDER WILL ADHERE TO IT. WHAT I DID WAS PUT A MINUTE AMOUNT OF SOLDER ON EACH CONTACT POINT BEFORE PUTTING THE LED ON, THAT WAY ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS SET YOUR LED ON TOP OF THE CONTACT POINTS AND SOLDER THEM. TOUCH THE CONTACT POINT WITH THE SOLDERING IRON TO HEAT THE METAL AND ADHERE THE LED TO THE BOARD. BE CAREFUL YOU DON'T TOUCH THE PLASTIC ON THE LED BECAUSE IT WILL MELT.... VERY FAST. THE LED SHOULD BE SOLDERED ON NOW IF YOU DID EXACTLY WHAT I SAID. BOTH POINTS MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE BOARD AT EACH END OF THE LED AND NOT TOUCHING ONE ANOTHER. NOW REPEAT THIS 3 MORE TIMES! IT TOOK ABOUT AN HOUR TO DO THIS. REATTACH THE RIBBON TO THE BOARD GENTLY AND CLAMP THE WHITE PIECE BACK DOWN, AND REASSEMBLE YOUR PHONE. CROSS YOUR FINGERS, PRAY AND HAVE A BEER READY! TURN THE PHONE BACK ON... IF YOUR LEDS CAME ON THEN YOU HAVE SUCCESS IF NOT, DRINK YOUR BEER AND RELAX FOR A BIT, THEN RESTART THIS WHOLE PROCESS OVER.MAKE SURE BEFORE YOU START TO HAVE A SOAKED WASH CLOTH, HTC TOOL, SOLDERING IRON, TWEEZERS AND YOUR SOLDER. BEFORE YOU START TO BREAK YOUR PHONE DOWN HEAT YOUR IRON SO ITS READY WHEN ITS TIME. THE WASH CLOTH IS TO KEEP YOUR IRON TIP CLEAN OF DEBRIS. I DID RED ON MINE AND LIKE I SAID ITS AMAZING!
ENJOY!
**++** I can perform this operation for you at your expense. Fee of 30$. Free return shipping and your choice of red, blue, green or yellow,Or any combination you choose.
photos
Photos of the finished product! Tape can also do this but its not worth it to me with the fading and all. I hope you all like it!
Looks nice! I'm a puss tho, I wouldn't attempt it
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
boostbounds4 said:
****DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ARE TIMID, A FIRST TIMER OR GENERALLY UNEASY ABOUT TEARING DOWN YOUR 600$ PHONE! THIS IS MY EXPERIENCE AND RESULTS ARE DEPENDANT ON YOUR ABILITY TO COMPLETE THIS TASK! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DAMAGE DONE BY YOUR HANDS TO YOUR PHONE IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM!****
Well, I must say that it looks F$#!ing awesome! The whole process was horrid for me though. This is how it went.... I start to take apart the phone and notice that the screws are not like my evo 4gs were. The screws are a torx T5 and all I had was a T6! So I tried like hell to fit it in the screws with no luck, I ended up stripping one out, and had to leave one in, luckily it was at the opposite end of the phone! This is how you do it.
YOU WILL NEED:
1. SOLDERING IRON AND SOLDER
2. T5 TORX SCREWDRIVER
3. ATLEAST 4 0603 LEDS OF YOUR COLOR CHOICE.
4. SOAKED WASH CLOTH.
5.HTC TOOL KIT OR WOODEN WEDGE OR POPSICLE STICK.
6. TWEEZERS
7. TOOTH PICK TO HELP REMOVE THE RIBBON.
8. RAZOR BLADE.
9.BALLS OF STEEL!!!!...... REALLY!
GET T5 TORX SCREWDRIVER AND BEGIN REMOVING THE SCREWS. THERE ARE 4 OF THESE AT EACH CORNER OF THE PHONE. YOU ALSO WILL SEE 2 TINY PHILLIPS SCREWS, ONE NEAR THE SD CARD AND THE OTHER ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE. AFTER REMOVING THOSE YOU MAKE SURE BATTERY AND SD CARD ARE REMOVED. TAKE AN HTC PHONE TOOL KIT OR A WOODEN POPSICLE STICK OR WOODEN WEDGE TO PRY OFF THE BACK OF THE PHONE. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PUT TO MUCH PRESSURE ON ANY ONE AREA OF THE PHONE ESPECIALLY THE SCREEN AND CORNERS. AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SCREEN THERE IS A SMALL GREEN BOARD WITH A RIBBON ATTACHED AND A PIECE OF TAPE ATTACHED TO HOLD IT IN PLACE. WITH THE UTMOST CARE REMOVE THE TINY CLEAR TAPE COVERING THE RIBBON ON THE BOARD, REMOVE THIS TAPE WITH YOUR TOOL AND POP THE LITTLE WHITE LATCH THAT IS HOLDING THE RIBBON IN. TAKE THE BOARD OUT AND TURN IT OVER. NOW YOU WILL SEE 4 TINY ( THEY REALLY ARE THE SIZE OF A GRAIN OF SAND) WHITE LEDS. NOW THIS IS WHERE MOST WILL GET SCARED OFF... THE LEDS MUST BE REMOVED WITH A RAZOR BLADE. YOU MUST BE EXTREMELY GENTLE! REMOVE THE LIGHTS SO THAT ALL YOU SEE IS THE POINTS ON THE BOARD WHERE THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE SIDE ARE TO BE SOLDERED. NOW LOOK AT YOUR BOARD AND MAKE SURE THAT THE 2 WHITE PATCHES ARE ON TOP, NOW SOME LEDS ARE DIFFERENT THAN MINE BUT ON THE BOTTOM THERE WILL BE A "T" SHAPE. MAKE SURE THE BIG END IS ON THE LEFT. NOW GET YOUR SOLDER AND IRON TOGETHER. TOUCH THE METAL POINTS ON THE BOARD FOR ONE OF THE LEDS TO HEAT UP THE METAL SO THE SOLDER WILL ADHERE TO IT. WHAT I DID WAS PUT A MINUTE AMOUNT OF SOLDER ON EACH CONTACT POINT BEFORE PUTTING THE LED ON, THAT WAY ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS SET YOUR LED ON TOP OF THE CONTACT POINTS AND SOLDER THEM. TOUCH THE CONTACT POINT WITH THE SOLDERING IRON TO HEAT THE METAL AND ADHERE THE LED TO THE BOARD. BE CAREFUL YOU DON'T TOUCH THE PLASTIC ON THE LED BECAUSE IT WILL MELT.... VERY FAST. THE LED SHOULD BE SOLDERED ON NOW IF YOU DID EXACTLY WHAT I SAID. BOTH POINTS MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE BOARD AT EACH END OF THE LED AND NOT TOUCHING ONE ANOTHER. NOW REPEAT THIS 3 MORE TIMES! IT TOOK ABOUT AN HOUR TO DO THIS. REATTACH THE RIBBON TO THE BOARD GENTLY AND CLAMP THE WHITE PIECE BACK DOWN, AND REASSEMBLE YOUR PHONE. CROSS YOUR FINGERS, PRAY AND HAVE A BEER READY! TURN THE PHONE BACK ON... IF YOUR LEDS CAME ON THEN YOU HAVE SUCCESS IF NOT, DRINK YOUR BEER AND RELAX FOR A BIT, THEN RESTART THIS WHOLE PROCESS OVER.MAKE SURE BEFORE YOU START TO HAVE A SOAKED WASH CLOTH, HTC TOOL, SOLDERING IRON, TWEEZERS AND YOUR SOLDER. BEFORE YOU START TO BREAK YOUR PHONE DOWN HEAT YOUR IRON SO ITS READY WHEN ITS TIME. THE WASH CLOTH IS TO KEEP YOUR IRON TIP CLEAN OF DEBRIS. I DID RED ON MINE AND LIKE I SAID ITS AMAZING!
ENJOY!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mad props bro, excellent job.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Nice job man you should do that in the side for extra money
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Lol ya , I was very hesitant about posting it just for that reason. But I bought 50 more LEDS so I can do it for people on the side. ;-)
thanks for the support guys!
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Well done man.
Go big or go home right?
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Axe-08 said:
Well done man.
Go big or go home right?
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes Sir...
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Good write up on this. I just used blue electrical tape. 4 weeks now and hasn't faded.
thanks
This was my first write up on here... Thanks!
Would any one be interested in a camera LED mod? I just cooked something up and its pretty awesome.
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Now that's impressive. I might try it on one I'd my old phones after I get some soldering skills
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
I am too SCARED to even attempt. No more insurance on my phone since I cut my contract.
Coffee and Hip-Hop!!!
If you would like this done, I provide insurance on all items shipped to me! So if I break it your covered for a replacement! Insurance is 5 bucks extra because I have to pay for it monthly. But for 35 bucks you can get your phones LEDS changed and arranged any way you like. I also provide other services such as: a root/ unroot service, unbricking service for most cases.Shoot me a PM... Also once I receive the phone it will ship back out the same day ... Free!
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
boostbounds4 said:
If you would like this done, I provide insurance on all items shipped to me! So if I break it your covered for a replacement! Insurance is 5 bucks extra because I have to pay for it monthly. But for 35 bucks you can get your phones LEDS changed and arranged any way you like. I also provide other services such as: a root/ unroot service, unbricking service for most cases.Shoot me a PM... Also once I receive the phone it will ship back out the same day ... Free!
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you post up pics of what the other LED colors look like when lit? I'm pretty interested in this, but wanted to see what the other colors look like.
I haven't used any other colors on my personal phone but I have on others... Unfortunately I didn't take photos. Google 0603 led and the color you want to see, should pull some photos. Trust me the yellow I did 2 days ago was by far my fav! I love my red and the red theme from *steals red*
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Lights still working perfectly after 3months!
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
I'd pay ya to do it to mine. Fortunately I've got my standard Evo4G. Email me at [email protected].
I'm on vacation for 2 more weeks, but I'm very interested in having you do this to my E3D! 40 bucks total?
E3D'ed... Booyah!
Anyone else looking for this service, feel free to comment here or email me at [email protected] Com!..
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
I'm trying to disassemble the dock because one corner of it doesn't seem to be fitting properly, causing it to be raised and making the dock unbalanced.
I found instructions on how to disassemble by first removing the screws under the two rubber feet near the hinge, then popping off the plastic case. My problem is that I can't seem to get the back plastic piece to come off.
I'm lifting it up right near the hinge, but the two corners of the dock remain stubbornly stuck. I'm afraid of applying too much leverage, as I don't want to break it.
Am I doing something wrong?
I just did this yesterday, and yes it is a pain. I managed to get the back off by using an old subway club card. Just start where you are at the hinge and try to slide the card along the crack. Theres about 20 tabs in there holding it all together so you need to wiggle the card a bit to loosen them. Once you go all the way around you need to make sure the hinge is in the open position. Im not sure what causes it but with the hinge closed the back plastic wont come off.
Just be patient and careful and stay away from the screwdriver like me. That metal is extremely fragile and I chipped it a whole lot being too aggressive.
First and foremost, doing this and telling asus about it will void your warranty.
Warning: Failure to follow my instructions right down to the letter will result in your in-laws camping out at your place for a month.
(1) Take out anything that's in your full size sdcard slot. Flip your keyboard upside down so that the keys are facing down.
(2) Gently but surely remove the 2 rubber pads that are the closest to the connection between your TF and the dock.
(3) Under there, you will find 2 small screws. Unscrew them. Please don't lose the screws.
(4) Flip the dock over so that the keys face up towards the sky.
(5) Write me a check for $3000 USD.
(6) Use your right hand and hold down the part where the TF makes the connection. Curl your left fingers into a hook, put it under the dock, and pull up. After the left side of the dock is severed, reverse and do the right side.
(7) Now that both left and right sides are off, continue to lift up the top of the dock until the side towards you loses the connection as well. Be careful not to remove too fast. There are wires connected between the 2 parts.
goodintentions said:
(5) Write me a check for $3000 USD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
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Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
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I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
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I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
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hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
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I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
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I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
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I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
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No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!