Related
Seems to be a perfect fit for the ASUS 40 pin connector.
Now we have to decide WHAT to make. I was thinking about a few items, but your suggestions needed.
Wheeeeeeee....
Note: There may be other places to get it, but this is the first place I found it.
Mouser Part #: 571-2129276-1
Manufacturer Part #:
2129276-1
Manufacturer:
TE Connectivity
Description: I/O Connectors 40P CABLE MNT PLUG CHAMP DOCKING
Stock: 1,070 Can Ship Immediately
Pricing (USD)
1: $3.49
10: $3.14
25: $2.85
100: $2.71
PS: These are very small connection points, so you need to have special soldering equipment (sub-mm tips).
Well, maybe start with USB Host?
My suggestions:
- USB-Hub like Soundsurfer said
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
- DVB-t
greetings
SoundSurfer said:
Well, maybe start with USB Host?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea. I like it a lot.
I ordered a couple of these ACT4060 items:
ACT4060A SOP-8 ACT4060 Wide Input 2A Step Down
The idea is to take 15V from the tablet or charger and step down to 5V to power a USB hub, similar the the ASUS USB host device (same part).
I also thought to add a 5.5mm female barrel socket for charging with a 15V power supply, like these: Power Supply DC 15V
Note: Many other power supply are available from 12V-15V with 5.5mm barrel plug.
---------- Post added at 03:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 PM ----------
w04g005 said:
My suggestions:
- USB-Hub like Soundsurfer said
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
- DVB-t
greetings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great, thanks!
I do not think the HDMI output is on the 40 pin cable, but I could be wrong. There is audio available, because it is on the TF101 Desktop Stand.
Any links to an infrared control?
Bob Smith42 said:
Any links to an infrared control?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry,
i have no link for infrared control. I only have seen the video with infrared remote from the tablet s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbYzckPXJ2Q&feature=player_embedded
But we can try to combine a standard usb infrared adapter with the 40-pin connector. Maybe it doesn't work because of the lack of drivers (if they couldn't get extracted from the sony tablet). But i have to say that i'm neither a electronic technician nor a programmer. Only wanted to suggest my wishes ;-)
Maybe this can help:
http://www.irdroid.com/
greetings
Can you make a regular USB cable with this connector ?
question: do you have the pin out of the 40-pin connector?
w04g005 said:
- Infrared adapter to control your home cinema (i saw that the new sony tablet s has it built in. maye we can port the software?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This would be a great idea - this sort of feature makes the Sony offering stand out in an otherwise fairly homogenous tablet market. Don't know anything about how to do this though, but will post back if I manage to find out anything useful...
fisha21 said:
This would be a great idea - this sort of feature makes the Sony offering stand out in an otherwise fairly homogenous tablet market. Don't know anything about how to do this though, but will post back if I manage to find out anything useful...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, i assume 2 or 3 pins on the 40-pin connector are for audio signals because the dock has an audio out! we could connect some irda leds to the pins like shown in this project:
www.irdroid.com
But i have to say that i read today about a new logitech product called: logitech harmony link
www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/universal-remotes/devices/harmony-link
i think i will buy these to replace my harmony one.
greetings
Matthias
how about a mini usb cord? So I could plug my DSLR camera into it and download the pictures on the fly?..or even a micro to plug the phone in...but if it was a USB hub, it would work as well..just a longer cord.
w04g005 said:
Ok, i assume 2 or 3 pins on the 40-pin connector are for audio signals because the dock has an audio out! we could connect some irda leds to the pins like shown in this project:
www.irdroid.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quick look on Google shows up this serial IR transceiver made by IguanaWorks. I'm afraid my electronics knowledge is very limited, but could the serial connector be replaced by these Asus-compatible adapters. I suspect the main problem might be the way the transceiver draws charge from the serial port to charge up the capacitor? According to the website, it uses LIRC so either the Irdroid or Androlirc apps might work (Androlirc requires an audio-IR device, so may need some tweaking, but is apparently open-source).
The other option might be the Newkinetix Re - whether it would be possible to replace the iThing connector with the ones you have located. Of course, the app is only for iOS, so yet another stumbling block.
I'm only feeding back the results of my digging, lack any of the required skills to make any of this work, so forgive if it all misses the mark completely.
w04g005 said:
But i have to say that i read today about a new logitech product called: logitech harmony link
www.logitech.com/en-us/remotes/universal-remotes/devices/harmony-link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course, this does also look pretty good, if you don't mind the IR extender "spiders" ... and the fact that the TV guide feature is only available for iPad (grr!)
I thought this thread would be more popular. If the plug didn't cost so much to ship to my country I'd be building a wall charger with a long lead and a car charger.
Sent from my u8800 using XDA App
That's a nice find! Now if only we knew some technical details about the connector pin-out.. I guess a good start would be looking at what both docks have inside and the connector routings, I doubt they use any external electronics, so should be quite easy to do cool things.
EDIT: at least now we'll be able to do another cable.. buy a standard USB 3.0, cut one end out and solder the new connector. A bit of cleaning everything up and ready to go.
PatrickVogeli said:
That's a nice find! Now if only we knew some technical details about the connector pin-out.. I guess a good start would be looking at what both docks have inside and the connector routings, I doubt they use any external electronics, so should be quite easy to do cool things.
EDIT: at least now we'll be able to do another cable.. buy a standard USB 3.0, cut one end out and solder the new connector. A bit of cleaning everything up and ready to go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally got my USB Host Kit for the TF, so I can work on the connector pin out. The USB Kit did not work (for me) on the dock 40 pin socket, so apparently there are differences between the Dock and Tablet 40 pin sockets.
Can anyone can confirm the USB Kit does/does not work on the dock 40 pin socket?
Thanks
fisha21 said:
Quick look on Google shows up this serial IR transceiver made by IguanaWorks. I'm afraid my electronics knowledge is very limited, but could the serial connector be replaced by these Asus-compatible adapters. I suspect the main problem might be the way the transceiver draws charge from the serial port to charge up the capacitor? According to the website, it uses LIRC so either the Irdroid or Androlirc apps might work (Androlirc requires an audio-IR device, so may need some tweaking, but is apparently open-source).
The other option might be the Newkinetix Re - whether it would be possible to replace the iThing connector with the ones you have located. Of course, the app is only for iOS, so yet another stumbling block.
I'm only feeding back the results of my digging, lack any of the required skills to make any of this work, so forgive if it all misses the mark completely.
Of course, this does also look pretty good, if you don't mind the IR extender "spiders" ... and the fact that the TV guide feature is only available for iPad (grr!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems many people like infra-red controls. Here is some pics of the I-Got-Control device for the iPod/iPad/iPhone.
There seems to be only a few lines connected to the Apple 30 pin connector. Does anyone have the pin-out for Apple 30 pin connectors?
I think this might be easily attached to the Asus USB Host or SD adapter.
Thanks!
a backpack style add-on for the TF would be neat...something that adds a battery/usb/etc at the cost of making it a bit fatter and maybe taller..
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
Any updates on this?
Amazed at how hard it is to find a 30-pin connector pinout, seems Apple tweaked it a bit as new generations came along.
This is the kind of thread I love to see, on Android+TF!
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
If I were to solder every connector point through a wire, would connecting the dock from the side through the 40 pin connector to the bottom slot of the TF give the same communication as if the TF is docked? Been wanting to "dock" the tablet without actually having them together.
Yeah, it would work, but instead of soldering better find connectors and a cable. I'm thinking of doing it to my USB adaptor (which is very badly done, completely loose).
Bob Smith42 said:
Does anyone have the pin-out for Apple 30 pin connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Isn't that available all over the net?
pinouts.ru /PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
Cheers!
-M
Xda member since 2007
Hey guys,
I had a Galaxy Tab connector on hand and made it fit this thing using a dremel. (Yeah, I know a Sansa dock connector fits perfect...yada yada). I have a Sansa connector coming anyway. This is for initial testing.
Can someone take DETAILED pictures of the inside of their HDMI cables and their Docks as well as internals of their Gtablets by the dock connector? (My only camera are my Evos (4G +3D) and a Galaxy S). I have opened mine countless times, but a good picture helps a TON!
I can do some testing using a logic analyzer, scope, and DMM. However, that will not show me everything as many connections require commands sent in the right protocol to activate. Pictures and such would be of a great help.
If it works out, I can make up some board files and we can make our own docks and cables for whatever our needs are (also I have a friend who owns an online shop specializing in this stuff to get some commercially done).
POST YOUR PICTURES!!!!!
EDIT: 10/01/11
FOUND MORE PINS!
GROUND PINS (universal and non-isolated): 1, 8, 11, 14, 17, 24, 26
5V OUTPUT: 3, 4
3.3V OUTPUT: 5
Pin 23 looks like a mode controlling pin and might be somehow correlated to pin 21.
TO PUT THE TABLET INTO DOCK MODE : Ground Pin 23.
TO STOP/START Music: 10 Ohm Interrupt on Pin 23.
HDMI OUTPUT:
*requires small inductors on the active data signals
H3 - 6
H4 - 7
H2 - 9
H1 - 10
H5 - 12
H6 - 13
H7 - 15
H8 - 16
The Grounds 8, 11, 14, and 17 ARE THE SHIELD SIGNAL GROUNDS.
Serial EEPROM acts to tell the receiver that it is hooked up to HDMI. This is easily to simulate - YAY!
YES, WE HAVE DIRECT HDMI OUTPUT!
12V INPUT: Pin 27
Charging Ground: Pin 26
AUDIO OUTPUT:
POLE 1 + 2: Pin 25
POLE 3: 22
POLE 4: 23
This means that Audio Ground to be used is 24.
23 is the Mic or 4th Pole used for mic input and remote control!
The Lat thing is the USB Host out port. The SMSL chip seems to be acting like a hub so it is really precise work. Not bad for a couple of hours hacking Eh?
I HAVE A FRIEND OF MINE AT KINETIKA SYSTEMS BUYING MORE SANSA DOCK CONNECTORS AND POD-BREAKOUT BOARDS FOR OUR GTABLET. FOR NOW, YOU CAN MODIFY AN IPOD DOCK TO FIT AND USE THE POD-BREAKOUT FOR THAT.
Please thank me if you find this post useful.
I managed to spend an hour or so with it today.
Here is what I have thus far.
GROUND PINS (universal and non-isolated): 1, 8, 11, 14, 17, 24, 26
5V OUTPUT: 3, 4
3.3V OUTPUT: 5
Pin 23 looks like a mode controlling pin and might be somehow correlated to pin 21.
TO PUT THE TABLET INTO DOCK MODE : Ground Pin 23.
TO STOP/START Music: 10 Ohm Interrupt on Pin 23.
25 and 27 are some sort of data pins.
Pin 2 Might be Power In (don't know for sure).
I have an HDMI cable and Dock coming in a week or so for better testing/analyzation.
The stuff I figured out just now was using an Osc. Scope and a DMM. I am getting access to a better logic analyser that might be able to read and imitate HDMI to figure that out if it doesn't need a chip for interpretation.
There are a LOT of ground pins and couldn't find an audio out on the dock.
SEND ME PICS FOR BETTER AND FASTER PROGRESS!!!!!
Can anyone show me the top of the board or without the sticker?
Credit for pic to it2steve
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What's the pics do you need? The 30pin connector or DOCK'S connector? Maybe i can do something for you. I have both of them 4 month ago.
Hdmi pins, audio pins, charging pins found!
Why are you trying to figure all this out? There is both a charging dock with ethernet and an HDMI cable available for purchase?
Just curious?
First off, this is information that we SHOULD KNOW.
Secondly, the DOCKS are no longer made and becoming very hard to get.
Knowing this information, people can make custom cables and adapters to suit their needs. There are many people who their 12V port on the side of their Gtab stopped working. at this point, they have no other option than to shell out $60 for a dock when they can fix it or make an adapter for less than $5 shipped.
The HDMI cable is only so long, knowing the information above you can take a $3 Deal extreme cable and chop off the ends then attach to a dock connector and a small pic controller for whatever the heck you want.
NONE OF THE CURRENT OPTIONS GIVE YOU THE LINE OUT AUDIO!!!!!
People into Hi-fi or who want to have the Gtab output the best audio possible now have a way to get that.
Also, WHY NOT FIND THIS OUT?
This is done as a service to the Gtablet community. The accessories that are out there are in short supply and DO NO DO EVERYTHING THAT THE GTABLET CAN DO FROM THE DOCK CONNECTOR.
Plus, given the extra space that we have inside of the GTABLET and extra space on the sides of the Gtablet, we can actually ADD HDMI OUTPUT to the side of the device as well as pretty much any of the docking features that we miss.
beeja75 said:
Why are you trying to figure all this out? There is both a charging dock with ethernet and an HDMI cable available for purchase?
Just curious?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok I am SOOOO interested in this but have little electrical experience, so if a cable can be made I am down with buying it.
I want to turn my Gtab into a car stereo, right now I am looking to convert hdmi to RCA fo audio and video output, so Get a dock, connect an HDMI to the back of the dock (or one of the new cables) ==> plug into an analog converter for RCA video and audio out ==> connect splitter to video and sound ==> connect video to external lcd, and sound to my amp.
I have two monitors for the kids in the back for movies, so i would hate to loose them
The current cable that dont require a dock is almost perfect except for power, I would want to charge the pad when connected, so a 12 volt in would be needed, then I would want(would be nice but I can get this eleswhere, 7805 voltage regulator off a 12 volt line.) to use the 5 volt output to power the HDMI to RCA converter which is 5 volts.
any chance you would be intereted in a custom cable?
Here is the converter I am looking at
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Composite-S-Video-Converter-3RCA/dp/B0047PDBP0
Obviously it would not be ideal to convert digi to anlog but this the only way I know.
Yeah, this is why I am doing this.
If you can find an HDMI cable that has a built in serial identification chip (prob one meant for a different mobile device), then you could chop that off and use it connected to the pins above.
The 5V output can't be more than a few hundred Ma and that adapter might require more, but you can always just check it.
Personally, I would just buy a Beagle or Panda board to stick back there and a 10 inch capacitive display (not that expensive believe it or not). That way you can have it run multiple OS' and have a bunch of I/O.
ethernet
I didn't see the pinouts for the ethernet.
or did I miss something?
The Ethernet chip actually is not direct Ethernet, it is in fact a USB connection. The USB host and the Ethernet are actually sharing the same connection on the dock. The SMSL chip is almost acting as a mini hub.
I'm interested in my making some cables for my Gtab. You said that your friend was ordering some Sansa dock connectors. Where can those be ordered from? Is there a generic term for that type connector? I'm wondering if some of the electronic supply catalogs might have them.
question
Ok I have an old sanse dock/usb cable that fits perfectly in my gtablet... Soooooo What can do with that as this point... I would love to use it to make a Tranformer like dock with keyboard and addition usb or hdmi/audio out etc... From what i have read that is the idea, right?... Man if that would work that would bring new life to this Gtablet... I know nothing about pins and such... Is this something I will be able to do (follow direction posted) once it is figured out?
Thanks...
Childofthehorn said:
Hey guys,
I had a Galaxy Tab connector on hand and made it fit this thing using a dremel. (Yeah, I know a Sansa dock connector fits perfect...yada yada). I have a Sansa connector coming anyway. This is for initial testing.
Can someone take DETAILED pictures of the inside of their HDMI cables and their Docks as well as internals of their Gtablets by the dock connector? (My only camera are my Evos (4G +3D) and a Galaxy S). I have opened mine countless times, but a good picture helps a TON!
I can do some testing using a logic analyzer, scope, and DMM. However, that will not show me everything as many connections require commands sent in the right protocol to activate. Pictures and such would be of a great help.
If it works out, I can make up some board files and we can make our own docks and cables for whatever our needs are (also I have a friend who owns an online shop specializing in this stuff to get some commercially done).
POST YOUR PICTURES!!!!!
EDIT: 10/01/11
FOUND MORE PINS!
GROUND PINS (universal and non-isolated): 1, 8, 11, 14, 17, 24, 26
5V OUTPUT: 3, 4
3.3V OUTPUT: 5
Pin 23 looks like a mode controlling pin and might be somehow correlated to pin 21.
TO PUT THE TABLET INTO DOCK MODE : Ground Pin 23.
TO STOP/START Music: 10 Ohm Interrupt on Pin 23.
HDMI OUTPUT:
*requires small inductors on the active data signals
H3 - 6
H4 - 7
H2 - 9
H1 - 10
H5 - 12
H6 - 13
H7 - 15
H8 - 16
The Grounds 8, 11, 14, and 17 ARE THE SHIELD SIGNAL GROUNDS.
Serial EEPROM acts to tell the receiver that it is hooked up to HDMI. This is easily to simulate - YAY!
YES, WE HAVE DIRECT HDMI OUTPUT!
12V INPUT: Pin 27
Charging Ground: Pin 26
AUDIO OUTPUT:
POLE 1 + 2: Pin 25
POLE 3: 22
POLE 4: 23
This means that Audio Ground to be used is 24.
23 is the Mic or 4th Pole used for mic input and remote control!
The Lat thing is the USB Host out port. The SMSL chip seems to be acting like a hub so it is really precise work. Not bad for a couple of hours hacking Eh?
I HAVE A FRIEND OF MINE AT KINETIKA SYSTEMS BUYING MORE SANSA DOCK CONNECTORS AND POD-BREAKOUT BOARDS FOR OUR GTABLET. FOR NOW, YOU CAN MODIFY AN IPOD DOCK TO FIT AND USE THE POD-BREAKOUT FOR THAT.
Please thank me if you find this post useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought two of the Sansa breakout connectors way back in the beginning of the g tab life from Kinetika and IT DID NOT FIT even though owners of an original cable report that it does fit. The Kinetkka Sansa connector in fact fits the ipod....i called and wrote to Mike at Kinetika and they did NOTHING to fix the problem. Beware!
xjarl said:
What's the pics do you need? The 30pin connector or DOCK'S connector? Maybe i can do something for you. I have both of them 4 month ago.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have a picture of the bottom of the PCB?
OK so I have a Viewsonic Gtablet. It broke this weekend. Well the charging port broke, the little pin in the middle of the port where the AC adapter blogs is loose, it is still in there but even careful cord placement will not charge it. I have just enough battery left to wipe it clean. But I was going to try to repair it.
So one, where to find decent instructions to open it up. I figure a charging port is an easy fix and I am no stranger to a soldering iron. Secondly I was going to sell it as I just ordered a new tablet. So would anyone be interested in this for parts or repair themselves. I was going to sell it before it broke for like $120 OBO. Can't do that now.
It is right now I wish they added USB charging to the device. At least I would have a backup plan...
Ken
Get a dock - 50 bucks, problem solved.
Sent from my Droid using xda app-developers app
devilock76 said:
OK so I have a Viewsonic Gtablet. It broke this weekend. Well the charging port broke, the little pin in the middle of the port where the AC adapter blogs is loose, it is still in there but even careful cord placement will not charge it. I have just enough battery left to wipe it clean. But I was going to try to repair it.
So one, where to find decent instructions to open it up. I figure a charging port is an easy fix and I am no stranger to a soldering iron. Secondly I was going to sell it as I just ordered a new tablet. So would anyone be interested in this for parts or repair themselves. I was going to sell it before it broke for like $120 OBO. Can't do that now.
It is right now I wish they added USB charging to the device. At least I would have a backup plan...
Ken
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is easy to pop the cover off the back of the Gtab. Here is a link to a video on how to do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9M7lxllGOyc
A google search will also direct you to another site where the topic has been discussed.
Same thing happened to me: knocked it off a table while charging
Anyway, after looking into fixing the barrel connector jack I decided that it was going to be hard enough finding the part - much less getting it properly soldered onto the board, so I went a different route:
After finding the pinouts for the docking connector on the web at [*** see Note #1 ***] I went to [*** see Note #2 ***] and bought 2 connectors (in case I messed one up - the pins ARE pretty small).
I then soldered 2 wires to pins 26 (g) and 27 (+12) of a connector and cut the barrel plug off my charger and soldered the wires to the cable.
Works great.
Hope this isn't too late, but I figure in any case it might be helpful to someone in the future.
-jim
NOTES: Forum rules prhibit me from posting links, so here's how a human can find the places I would have listed
Note#1: pinouts
Google "rootzwiki Viewsonic Gtablet Dock Pins Discovered And Listed"
Note #2: The Kineteka eStore
Google "kineteka viewsonic gtab connectors"
I bought SKU# GTAB-DOCK-M-1 but the breakout board looked like an option as well
Mod edit: As a violation of rule no. 5 of the forum rules THREAD CLOSED as duplicate of
Samsung Multimedia Dock - Pinout Guidance Required
Hello, So I have the following Samsung Multimedia Dock, which was working fine since a year or more. It was used pretty much regularly with Galaxy SIV (either with stock or extended battery ). I guess after prolong usage and atmosphere condition...
forum.xda-developers.com
Oswald Boelcke
Hello,
So I have the following Samsung Multimedia Dock, which was working fine since a year or more. It was used pretty much regularly with Galaxy SIV (either with stock or extended battery ). I guess after prolong usage and atmosphere condition the solder point on the micro USB connector internally got dry and got detached. Hence it stopped working.
Hence when opening it to have a look inside, I lost the sequence of 8 wires connected to the micro USB connector on both sides (4 on each side). The pins on the micro USB connector are marked numerically 1-8 , however I cannot see the same number on the main PCB, so I am at a loss to understand how to get them solded again , in which order and sequence.
It is I guess a 11 pin micro USB connector because the dock had HDMI, Audio Out, and USB in (OTG) connections and power charging all at the same time.
Case cracked open and the main PCB and micro USB connector are apart.
Close up of the PCB
PCB and microUSB
MicroUSB connector call it side A (4 small pin out number from 1-4)
MicroUSB connector call it side B (4 small pin out number from 5-8) (I was able to see which wires were connected on this side so I marked this side with a blue marker and did the same with the 4 wires loosely held on this side after detachment)
PCB wires close up. Total eight wires. Starting from right the order is Black->Yellow->Green->Red->Yellow->Black->Red->Green, each of the wire needs to go to a pin 1-8 on the micro USB connector.
I know there are no published schematics for this PCB and 11 pin Samsung connector, however I am relying on the electronic expertise of the gurus around to help and guide me.
Thanks for your guidance.
Hello everyone,
Motivated by my tablet's failing USB connector and the great difficult of importing an original B&N charging dock (I'm overseas right now), I decided to try and see whether I could DIY a charging connector mysef, that would connect to the "quick connector" in the tablet's bottom.
First the good news:
I discovered that a standard 0.1" (2.54mm) PCB header like these has the exact pin size/spacing to make contact with the quick connector. So, no need to "fabricate" a connector from separate pins.
I used a digital multimeter to measure voltage on the pins, with the tablet both on and off, and with a USB charger both disconnected and connected, and apparently pin #1 (counting from the left when holding the tablet in landscape mode and looking at its front) is +5VDC, and pin #2 is GND (pin #3 seems to be a direct connection to pin #2 -- they are always at the exact same voltage --, and pins #9 and #10 seem to be +D/-D, not necessarily in that order).
Now the bad news:
I connected a 5V power supply to pins #1 and #2 as above (ie, +5VDC to pin #1 and GND to pin #2), but the tablet doesn' t react in any way (doesn't light up and show the "charging screen" when powered off, nor shows the "lightning bold" charging indicator in the battery icon in the notifier when powered on).
I tried changing GND to pin #3 (see above), with the same lack of results.
The moderately good news is that my attempt did not "fry" anything, the tablet kept working the same as before.
Does anyone have any more info on this "quick connector", or perhaps a better "solution" to my failing USB connector issue (I would be willing to disassemble and replace the USB connector, but I've searched Youtube and iFixIt to try and find a how-to-disassemble video, to no avail. The best I could find was these "internal photos" from the tablet' s FCC submission, but it doesn't show how to open it, and I see no screws nor anything -- not willing to try prying it open at the seams and risk cracking the case or worse).
Thanks in advance,
-- Durval.
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
tgp1994 said:
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear you like it!
tgp1994 said:
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be. I also remember that a long time ago (like, 2008) I had an original (pre-Android) Motorola Razr which wouldn't charge except in a computer or with Motorola's own charger. I was thinking of full-blow USB connect negotiation... but you are right, it could be just a resistor or something.
I'm just not too keen on connecting more 'stuff' into those pins by trial and error, specially the supposed D+/D- things... I've managed to not fry the device so far, but one never knows when one's luck is running out until it finally does...
tgp1994 said:
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the Discord link! I will be sure to contact them and learn what I can re: opening the device.
Cheers,
--
Durval.
Just keeping the thread posted: I posted a similar question on the Discord server linked above, here's what I got:
Ryzen5-3600 | iPhone 12 Pro Gold — Today at 9:13 AMIt's really difficult to open the Nook Tablet. Mine had a cracked screen so it was easier to open up the device. The screen is made out of this really cheap plastic, it breaks so easily. My guess is to get like a small plastic guitar pick and pry open the back.
[9:14 AM]
You might have to get like 3 or 4 for safe measures to help keep it open so it won't close shut again
So, I think it's better to refrain from trying and opening my Nook, at least for now ;-)
I'm trying to get a dock, when/if I get one I will open it and see for myself what the heck it does to make the Nook recognize it.
I will keep this thread posted.
Cheers,
-- Durval.
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
hugoyhu said:
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any luck? I bought the same keyboard for $4 at my B&N and just tore it apart. Turns out it only uses 5 of the 10 pins. The white box in the pic was pulled off so it originally did fit slightly more forward. Hopefully you can tell where it's supose to go.