Related
i need to change the display in my c550. Can anybody help me?
there's a guide on modaco or coolsmartphone i think.
I just found my old hurricane in bits so i just put it together a bit to remember...seems quite easy... just remove the battery, sim and sd card, take out all the screws on the back (torx t5 i think) slide a credit card at an angle down the side of the silver half of the case, and it kind of pops loose a bit at a time. Mine pops easily out now cause its loose, but it was more difficult the first time.
The camera connector just pops off the mobo as you remove the back half of the case, the keyboard connector next to the sd card slot pops off, then take the mobo and lcd out of the front of the case. The lcd is a *****, it involves holding it at about a less than 45 degree angle, while using a long pokey implement to pull up the top edge of the tape covering the lcd connector , then use the implement to flick up the connector (bottom side the furthest away from you), all without holding it at too much of an angle, then u can just pull the lcd off.
Putting it back its even more of a *****.
Putting the camera connector back can also be a bit tricky first time as you have to use your implement again (while holding the case at an angle).
Thanks i will try!
Just finished replacing my cracked glass / digitizer, but now my previously working LCD just shows vertical colored lines. I bought one of the glass / digitizer replacements from Ebay, which was a perfect match for the OEM piece. Since I was having trouble finding the thin double sided tape, I used black silicone adhesive to bond the LCD to the digitizer. When I plugged in LCD panel and turned the tablet on, all I get is vertical varying colored lines across the LCD. I've pressed the on /off switch for 10 seconds to reboot the device, but it still does the same thing. I've taken the ribbon cable off and on checking to see if was not properly seated, but it seems to be okay. Any ideas?
The ribbon cable had a 90 degree bend in it after it was removed... can that cause an internal cut in the cable itself? At least to me, it appears that the LCD is working, since the lines are bright in color and even change as you manipulate the digitizer... it just has no picture.
Thanks..
Killer95Stang said:
Just finished replacing my cracked glass / digitizer, but now my previously working LCD just shows vertical colored lines. I bought one of the glass / digitizer replacements from Ebay, which was a perfect match for the OEM piece. Since I was having trouble finding the thin double sided tape, I used black silicone adhesive to bond the LCD to the digitizer. When I plugged in LCD panel and turned the tablet on, all I get is vertical varying colored lines across the LCD. I've pressed the on /off switch for 10 seconds to reboot the device, but it still does the same thing. I've taken the ribbon cable off and on checking to see if was not properly seated, but it seems to be okay. Any ideas?
The ribbon cable had a 90 degree bend in it after it was removed... can that cause an internal cut in the cable itself? At least to me, it appears that the LCD is working, since the lines are bright in color and even change as you manipulate the digitizer... it just has no picture.
Thanks..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
90 degree bends can cause one or more of the individual conductors to become broken. I've had it happen on hard drive cables, and one inside a sprinkler system once.
chamberc said:
90 degree bends can cause one or more of the individual conductors to become broken. I've had it happen on hard drive cables, and one inside a sprinkler system once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any way to actually test this? Can use a voltmeter type tester to check continuity from one side of each pin to the other? They are hair like in size, so not sure the standard tests are the same.
Thanks..
My DIY experience...
Hi,
How did you perform the screen replacement? I have tried and I have described it below.
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my experience here.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I seached around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordererd a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there are room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a knife to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, bu I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seing when I turned on the screen was following the same line).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successfull even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point). Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but desided to to a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get it, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power botton and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiglling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to gt my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to seach for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had, but when seaching for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) I did find a few priced around $100
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a 5 point screen calibration routine, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China...
Did you test if the touch screen is actually working on your reworked unit (you can use the HDMI output as I did)?
Unless I get the screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
ThomasKJ said:
Hi,
How did you perform the screen replacement? I have tried and I have described it below.
It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my experience here.
The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I seached around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck
I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordererd a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.
With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.
Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.
The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there are room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)
Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a knife to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, bu I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seing when I turned on the screen was following the same line).
Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successfull even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point). Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but desided to to a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!
I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get it, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power botton and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiglling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to gt my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!
Off to the web to seach for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had, but when seaching for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) I did find a few priced around $100
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS WAS REVERTED!!!
I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.
I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a 5 point screen calibration routine, but this does not seem to be supported.
Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China...
Did you test if the touch screen is actually working on your reworked unit (you can use the HDMI output as I did)?
Unless I get the screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was in the same boat as you... after I took apart the unit, I still had a functioning screen... but when I went further to separate the LCD from the digitizer, I must have damaged the LCD. Right now all I get are vertical colored lines. I need to get an HDMI cable so I can check the function of the digitizer.. It seems to work, because I do get color changes when its manipulated, but no image. Damm.. problem is... how much good money do I spend on a damaged device.. At this point, I wish I just sent it in to get fixed by Asus..
Killer95Stang said:
I was in the same boat as you... after I took apart the unit, I still had a functioning screen... but when I went further to separate the LCD from the digitizer, I must have damaged the LCD. Right now all I get are vertical colored lines. I need to get an HDMI cable so I can check the function of the digitizer.. It seems to work, because I do get color changes when its manipulated, but no image. Damm.. problem is... how much good money do I spend on a damaged device.. At this point, I wish I just sent it in to get fixed by Asus..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure that your LCD is broken. It might just be the connection to the motherboard that is bad as chamberc said. I had the same problem with my broken screen. I had to wiggle the cable to get a partial correct picture on my screen. I tried to clean the pads without getting a 100% stable connection so I might have broken the flex cable as well, but normally these are relatively good at flexing without braking (they are made to do that) so I tend to think that it is the connection in the connector.
Until I figure out what to do with the touch screen I have not spend more time on root casuing it, but I suggest that you try to take the flex out of the connector and clean it with either a erasor or a cloth with alcohol and then gently put it back into the connector. Also ensure that you put it in the right way and close the hatch properly.
Good luck.
On the touch screen issue, my touch screen is working fine it JUST has a reverted x-axis, so it would still cause your colors to change, so I'm very curious if yours is working. Could you also share the touch screen part number (printed on the flex cable) and TF201 hardware version (TF201-1B or TF201-1I or???) This should be written on the label of the box and on the warrenty card.
The background for me asking about this, is that asusparts.eu has different spare parts depending on if is for TF201-1B or TF201-1I so there might be two versions of the hardware out there. Mine is a TF201-1B.
So as many people here know, the rear camera is a sore point on the Transformer Prime, in that it's known to go bad early and often. Not to beat a dead horse, here's how we fix the situation:
Replacing the rear camera module:
Yes it seems logical that this would be all you would need, but I've just confirmed myself that in fact it is only the camera module with a problem. The main issue with the fix is FINDING a good camera. I was a bit discouraged on my first attempt as I bought a rear camera on ebay listed as "working" from a parted out Transformer Prime only to go to the hassle of installing it and it not working. I can't say I was surprised, but after trying to find one for so long I took the chance. Upon recieving my refund, I purchased another rear webcam that surprisingly also surfaced. The seller for this second camera had TONS of feedback, and mostly products with the word "foxconn" in the title, indicating this guy seems to have a line on foxconn surplus parts, which for us is awesome. The camera I received appears to be brand new and fired up immediately! Not trying to push a particular seller but since many people are probably looking for this part, I'll post the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Eee-Pa...?pt=US_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item416a33f1f9. The seller is skyline27 and he appears to have one left right now (I bought the second). NOW, enough theory, onto the howto.
HOWTO (the good stuff)
0. Turn off Tablet (thanks whycali)
1. Remove screen as instructed in other disassembly threads (wifi fix threads, etc) Advice for this includes working from the bottom first, being vary carefly to NEVER use the pry tool at either the latch holes or the bottom port, as these very thin pieces of aluminum will bend. Get your tool in (heh heh) to the left or right of these "holes" in the case, then slide the tool sideways past them to avoid prying outwards. Get the entire bottom free, then slowly work up the sides with your plastic tools/credit card. When you get to the top, try gently pulling the screen "Down" or the port. You can also pull up like the rest, but when I disassembled I saw what looked like "hooks" that made me want to slide the top out last by pulling it towards the dock port.
1.2 (I forgot) Flip switch on right side of motherboard (top board) that will disconnect power to the motherboard before disconnecting the battery. Don't forget to switch it back when finished, or it won't turn on. (thanks whycali)
1.5 (I forgot) unscrew and remove flash and microphone at top
2. You can either disconnect the screen ribbon cable from the motherboard *top board* (makes your life easier) or simply set the screen upside down, rotated 90, and to the left of the opened prime. This allows the cables to sit fairly easily, though since you'll be removing the motherboard anyways it may be easier to unplug
3. Unscrew 8 battery screws, carefully unplug wide connector (I used precision flathead to the left and right of plug as to not 'yank'). Set battery aside.
4. Be sure every cable is unplugged from the Motherboard. This includes a small battery on the left side, the power button/volume cable top left, as well as the speaker cable on the right side.
5. Remove all motherboard screws. Be sure you get them all, you don't want to snap the motherboard in half in a minute because we'll be pulling against a little adhesive.
6. Be careful. REMOVE MOTHERBOARD This is the step you're most likely to have an issue, but it's still really easy. Time to remove the motherboard. This is easy if you know what to expect.
6a Both cameras are slightly adhesived into their holes, also plugged to back of motherboard. You can either try and pull these with the mobo, or let them stay where they are and pull them out later (probably easier for beginners)
6b There is a thermal pad about 1/3 away from the left where the CPU is. It is a bit adhesive, but not too much
6c MOST IMPORTANT - The motherboard is sort of "sandwiched" into the ports on the sides. That is, it doesn't want to pull straight up and out, the hdmi and headphone jacks are in the way. I believe it's very easy to break the HDMI and/or headphone jack here, yet I haven't yet. 2 ways to approach, one is to pull the side of the tablet outward slightly at the headphone jack to slide it up, allowing you to lift that side of the board, then sliding to the right to clear the hdmi. The second method which I prefer, is pulling up on the mobo from the center, causing the outer edges to pull inward slightly as the board flexes a bit. Choose whichever you prefer
7. Replace the camera. If you're this far along, I really shouldn't have to explain this. The front and rear sit side by side, your front is probably good, there's a piece of tape over the connectors, pull up, replace rear, make sure plugged in firmly on both, replace tape.
Installation is reverse of removal. I recommend plugging the screen ribbon (and all ribbon cables) into the motherboard before reinstalling it, as the connectors are on the bottom of the board and very difficult to get at once installed in the prime. Again, flex the motherboard or prime slightly to clear the ports going back in. Be sure cameras are attached to the motherboard, when installing, be sure to double check one last time that they're still plugged into the board before putting the board down and letting the cameras sit in their plastic holders. And don't forget that internal power switch on the right side of the motherboard.
FWIW, and I'm sure many will disagree with me, but I typically check everything before snapping the screen back up by booting it up with a few sheets of paper between the screen and internals as an extra safety insulator. Check screen, touch screen, both cameras, SD card, speaker, then I snap it shut.
If anyone really needs pictures I think I have a few, though not really specifically of what I was doing, but I could highlight/circle the pics I have if anyone gets stuck.
I really hope I can help others get a working camera who can't/won't RMA for the issue. Now time to UNLOCK MUAHAHAHA!!!
One thing I mostly remember to do when I plan to disassemble the ribbon cables is to turn off the internal power switch first.
I know this is an older thread but does anybody know where to get a new camera. The one that is linked to in the above post is no longer available. Thanks
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
The best reason for replacing both is that you won't have to worry about binding them or getting dust between them if you get them together preassembled. As to the rest, I can't say. I know we have a few people here who have done it.
So I found the adhesive strips that I need. It comes as a bulk sheet where you cut them to fit. I am going with replacing only the digitizer. Replacing the LCD screen also would male the process easier however I fear getting a replacement screen that is in worse shape or more poorly made than the original one my phone came with. I know this one has no flaws.
So I have answered my questions already. I'll post here when I done replacing the digitizer with anything that is of interest in case someone else has questions about this procedure.
Thank you for your input shrike1978. Much appreciated.
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Just 35 minutes ago my phone fell from my hands and onto some cable in the perfect way that it broke the Digitizer. Wonderful. So now I have to go about replacing this. It looks pretty straightforward and I will be doing this but I have a few questions I'd like to see if I can get answered. Perhaps this can be used by others as a helpful FAQ regarding replacing the LCD or Digitizer on an HTC Rezound.
1) I know I will be needing the Digitizer only as the LCD portion is not broken, so can anyone give me a good reason why I should replace both and not just the digitizer?
2) I know there are some adhesives involved in holding it together. Are these re-usable or should they be replaced? If they should be replaced, what kind of adhesives are they and where can they be found?
3) What is a good source for these parts? (Adhesives and digitizer)
4) Is there upgrades here I can do? Like a gorilla glass digitizer or something?
5) I've read a guitar pick is a great tool to separate parts, do you agree?
6) Any Gothca's that I should be concerned about
Here is the procedures I will be following:
1) Remove the back cover, the battery, SIM card and SD Card
2) Remove the 6 T5 torx screws around the sides (from the back)
3) Pry up the back by releasing the plastic clips around all 4 sides (note the volume rocker/power button may fall out)
4) Remove the Vibrator motor
5) Remove the two screws holding the MoBo on and lift up from the USB port side and remove the plastic piece from there.
6) Release the small plastic clips holding the Mobo in and swing it up, release the two ribbon cable connections
7) Heat around all sides front and back to loosen the adhesive, from the back work with a guitar pick to loosen the adhesive, repeat this process from the front.
8) Work around with the guitar pick between the screen and the housing from the front and remove the LCD and digitizer from the housing
9) Heat all the sides of the LCD/digitizer to loosen the Adhesive
10) Work with the guitar pick around the sides to release the digitizer from the LCD screen. It seems there is a piece of black tape on one side, you would have to "butterfly" the two screens and peel the screens apart.
11) Done. Reverse these steps to rebuild it. Do these adhesive parts need the adhesive replaced? Does the tape need to be replaced?
I cannot post links yet, but I felt I should give credit where its due. To obtain these steps I used a Youtube video. To view this video, search youtube for: 'How To Fix HTC Rezound Screen by RepairsUniverse.com'
The advice from the experts is highly anticipated!!
Regards,
Eduard Tieseler
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out my thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2189789
I did it not long ago, and was fine. However, I opted to go for the digitizer + LCD assembly, as I didn't want to have to worry about separating the digitizer from the LCD and worrying about dust.
To answer your questions:
1) It's eaiser, takes less time, and you don't have to worry about dust with replacing the digitizer + LCD assembly.
2) Replace the adhesive. I tried reusing it... and it has some flex on it. So I got some new adhesive, scraped the old stuff off, put the new one, and used a heatgun to move the screen assembly around to get it to fit right, and then pressed it down as it cooled to secure it better.
3) Ebay
4) Not sure on this one... not that I know of anyway.
5) If you get the parts from eBay, then they sometimes come with tools (Torx, philips, and a plastic separator tool).
I also linked the video that I used in my thread, so you can look at that. It's pretty straightforward and easy to do. Took me about 45 minutes to just over an hour to do everything, as I was taking my time.
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
etieseler said:
Well I did this process two days ago and for the most part it went well, but not without its issues.
First off, I should have heeded the advice of others suggesting to get the LCD + Digitizer pre-assembled. I tried to save some money however now there is a dead spot on my phone and I will have to spend that extra money to buy the kit anyways. So for anyone else thinking they can get away with just the digitizer, unless you have dustless neoprene gloves and a clean room (or possibly nitrogen or canned air) and lots of experience, do not attempt to replace one or the other, just get the pre-assembled kit.
I am going to replace it again with the kit in a few more days.
The only thing that came up that I didn't see anywhere else, was when I was pulling the back cover off. The spot where the camera is located was kind of sticking to the back cover. If I would have pulled to quickly or was too rough I would have easily damaged the camera. So my advice would be to work slowly when pulling the back cover off. If it feels like its resisting, it could be your camera. Wiggle it slightly and don't force it. The camera will loosen itself from the back case, but using too much force you could damage it.
Thanks for the info guys! :good:
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I also purchased the full assembly and was able to switch the new parts onto my Rezound. Unfortunately, the earpiece (the part you listen to when NOT on speakerphone) and the proximity sensor did not work with the new set, and I am swapping it for a replacement. However, I've been inside the unit now 5 times, and I suggest in addition to the tools supplied with the sets (t5, small phillips and separator) you also have a small flathead (helps with starting the split the unit apart and also with pulling and reattaching the vibrator motor) and a long tweezers (invaluable when trying to reconnect the ribbon cables.)
Also, reconnect the MIDDLE ribbon cable (which is slightly twisted and longer) first, then reconnect the top, and don't forget to reapply the insulating tape (been there, done that).
Watch the take apart video on Youtube repeatedly until you can do it with your eyes closed, and be careful, the red plastic does break easily, especially on the corners.
Replaced my digitizer with good success, using new adhesive. Upon first re-assembly the digitizer was popping out of the plastic bezel a bit, but everything worked great, touch, display, everything. So I decided to take apart, add some more adhesive strips. Now the digitizer stays flush.
First boot after 2nd re-assembly, got boot with first vibrate, but no screen on. So I pull the battery to attempt again. Now I receive no vibrate response from power button. When plug into charger, orange light comes on for 5 seconds and then off indefinitely. This happens each time after battery pull+wall charger plugin.
I have tried multiple times disassembling, checking both ribbon cables that plugin to motherboard, appear to connect fine. Visually all other aspects of MB appear fine.
Any ideas anyone? Not sure what may have broke. I should have left well-enough alone, but the digitizer was somewhat spongey to touch on right side of screen and I could see white light shine up... TIA
Each time I pull the batt the orange light will come on solid for 5 or so sec, then off for good. One time even started flashing for a bit like it was charging from full depletion (like it does before it lets you power on). Not sure how to diagnose.
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
etieseler said:
Did you make sure to put the yellow protective tape over the ribbon cable connections? When you open it (like a book) and see two ribbon cables. There originally was a small piece of tape over the connection to provide protection from anything being shorted out. Make sure this is back on.
If you no longer have the tape, I think any non-conductive tape would work like plain Scotch tape. Please correct me if I am wrong in that statement.
Sent from my Infected HTC Rezound using xda app-developers app
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I did not put those pieces of tape back on. In the YouTube video by "injured gadgets," I don't believe they re-covered up those ribbon cable plugins, so I also did not during re-assembly. Should I try that? Or, I assume, my board somewhere has gone bad? (Phone did work just fine after re-assemble, until I decided to take apart again)
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
hgoldner said:
And after doing this a handful of times, I figured out that the "earpiece" doesn't come with the digitizer/LCD/housing. It has to be pulled from the old phone and moved to the new one. Once I did that, everything was fine.
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hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
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I would go ahead and try putting it back on. There was an earlier post where someone mentioned it was important to put it back on, perhaps he can comment on what can happen if its not on (He said he learned from experience). Perhaps you can PM him.
To be honest, I originally only put the tape back on one connection, but after the second time replacing both the LCD screen and the digitizer, I found the second piece of tape and now both are back on.
What can it hurt to see if that will fix it? Its fairly easy to get to on these phones.
Ed
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
red3razor said:
Yes I did try put back on, no worky still. I assume motherboard issues now. So now I ask if anyone that has also failed to put tape insulation back on, has also resulted in motherboard fail?
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I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
carngeX said:
I ran it for about a week or so without the insulating tape. I assume you just mean the translucent, amber tape that goes over the jaw connectors of the ribbon cables on the motherboard? Not putting that on shouldn't have damaged your board... it's really just there to keep the jaw connectors from opening from vibrations.
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I left it off on one connection for about a week also with no issues. However I did notice roughly a 16th of an inch of copper exposed on the ribbon. I can envision potential issues from that. I'm not sure about your phone, but the jaw connectors on mine would never open on their own. Far too much resistance to open from any vibration or movement. The vibrator motor connection had a better chance of disconnecting on its own than the ribbon cables. I'm sure that tape provides more than just locking the jaw connectors closed. I could be wrong though.
red3razor said:
hgoldner, when you had forgotten to re-apply the insulating tape over the ribbon cables, did that result in a toasted motherboard? I'm trying to find out if that's what happened to mine? Thx
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No, I remembered and put it on before I powered up.
Dumped down the innertubes from my Asus Transformer TF300T
Just replaced my digitizer two days ago and I must add the difference is like night and day. I noted in a post that I had tripped and fell on it with my knee...lol ..nope.. I threw the damn thing and it hit the wall. Yahhh.. I know stupid lol... Something really pi$$ed me off tho and I kinda lost it.. .poooof....... Anyway, I had about 30 cracks in my digitizer and amazingly it still worked. Replaced it two days ago and it works great.
That factory adhesive is some SERIOUS stuff. I have performed many electronics repairs over the years and this...well...removing the digitizer and applying the new strips in exactly the right size was a royal pain in the a**! You REALLY gotta get that digitizer glass HOT if you want to be able to loosen it. Light heating WONT do squat to it. And the new strips arent even half as strong as the factory stuff. You really need patience and precision here.
Yes, dust ISVan issue where I live. Canned air came VERY useful. Also its good to have isopropyl alcohol and soft paper towels so you can clean any smudges you make on the LCD before reapplying the digitizer glass. Basically it's best to blow air over it quickly as you press the digi down to the adhesive. That makes sure every bit of contaminant is out.
About the ribbon cables, no I didn't reapply the amber tape to the jawbone connectors. Much of their adhesiveness was lost when I pulled them off. And as long as the ribbon cables are seated in properly and the jawbone connectors are securely locked down, they wont come disconnected. The tape is only there as an additional measure to secure the jawbone connectors from unlocking. Unless you drop your phone on concrete a lot, those cables arent coming loose....even then, dropping it wouldnt knock those loose.. Its more secure than you think. As far as the phone NOT working, the orange tape would have NO effect on that. Maybe one of your cables were partially disconnected and shorted out something on the mainboard. Either that, or it is static sensitive. Its possible if anything is CMOS.
ONLY issue I have since the repair is the top of the digitizer keeps pushing up because of the digitizer ribbon cable and where you have to bend and fold it in that groove to guide it behind the LCD . The ribbon isnt pinching down well and acts as a spring on the digitizer glass....adhesive not doing anything for that.
oh, did you all remove and reapply the clear (4 button tabs) at the bottom to the new glass? got mine in (the lights are pink now ...weeee ) Had to use some Gorilla super glue to restick them. That adhesive at the bottom was super strong and somehow they lost their stickiness when I pulled them off.
Digitizer after I finally got it unstuck from the LCD... wheewww damn. Lots of cracks. Thats what happens when the phone face eats the wall.....
So, my 4 soft keys on the bottom have yet out. Would fixing the digitzer get them back to working? My screens just got cracked like 2 days ago too, and I just want to make sure before i do all this and then find out i gotta take it all apart again. Thanks in Advance!
Hey guys.. I know this z ultra thread is almost dead and i might not get help, but i am gonna give it a try anyway.
So the story is.. last year i kept my xperia z ultra in my laptop bag and after half an hour when i checked the screen had a little line(crack) in the middle of the screen from one end to the other.
The phone turns on. I can see the display but it doesnt recognise my touches. and it randomly keeps on launching apps and touching screen here and there.
I would like to ask what exactly went wrong here.
some of my friends had this phone and their's were working even after cracked screens.
Can i replace the screen? and is it worth spending on this phone now?
iamvashisht said:
Hey guys.. I know this z ultra thread is almost dead and i might not get help, but i am gonna give it a try anyway.
So the story is.. last year i kept my xperia z ultra in my laptop bag and after half an hour when i checked the screen had a little line(crack) in the middle of the screen from one end to the other.
The phone turns on. I can see the display but it doesnt recognise my touches. and it randomly keeps on launching apps and touching screen here and there.
I would like to ask what exactly went wrong here.
some of my friends had this phone and their's were working even after cracked screens.
Can i replace the screen? and is it worth spending on this phone now?
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I had the same thing happen to me over 2 years ago. I finally got around to fixing it, because I was weary of bad LCD screens and I wanted to do it on the cheap.
I bought one from AliExpress and can confirm it is an OEM LCD panel. Only $36. Arrived in 3 weeks and it works like it did before, minus the waterproofing of course. In fact, this seller is all about OEM, good place for other devices as well.
Here is the link (I can't post links right now so it needs to be copied): goo.gl/et1vd6
I'd say it's worth it. It makes for a good backup phone and mini tablet for when you don't want to bring a tablet.
lilracerboi said:
I had the same thing happen to me over 2 years ago. I finally got around to fixing it, because I was weary of bad LCD screens and I wanted to do it on the cheap.
I bought one from AliExpress and can confirm it is an OEM LCD panel. Only $36. Arrived in 3 weeks and it works like it did before, minus the waterproofing of course. In fact, this seller is all about OEM, good place for other devices as well.
Here is the link (I can't post links right now so it needs to be copied): goo.gl/et1vd6
I'd say it's worth it. It makes for a good backup phone and mini tablet for when you don't want to bring a tablet.
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WOW that is cheap! To bad its not available anymore..
If I buy a new phone and this is no longer my primary phone I might change the screen and frame!
My chassis is cracked in half both at the sim slot due to its being so thin there and at the ear plug.
And my usb port is is not working cause of pin 1 that came loose that I soldered once but it came loose again so I ordered a new connector to be replaced completely.
The pins has started to move around due to wear in the plastic inside the connector so when I connect a usb cable it will tweak the pin back and forth until it breaks loose of the solder point.
And my earplug needs to be replaced due to 3.5mm plug comes out to easy but thats easy.
I have a question. How did you remove the battery?
I probably need to flip the motherboard upside down for the usb port that requires the battery to come out first.
I tried to break the glue underneath but the battery started to deform and bend just slightly and I'm worried the battery might burst into flames.
SUPERUSER said:
WOW that is cheap! To bad its not available anymore..
If I buy a new phone and this is no longer my primary phone I might change the screen and frame!
My chassis is cracked in half both at the sim slot due to its being so thin there and at the ear plug.
And my usb port is is not working cause of pin 1 that came loose that I soldered once but it came loose again so I ordered a new connector to be replaced completely.
The pins has started to move around due to wear in the plastic inside the connector so when I connect a usb cable it will tweak the pin back and forth until it breaks loose of the solder point.
And my earplug needs to be replaced due to 3.5mm plug comes out to easy but thats easy.
I have a question. How did you remove the battery?
I probably need to flip the motherboard upside down for the usb port that requires the battery to come out first.
I tried to break the glue underneath but the battery started to deform and bend just slightly and I'm worried the battery might burst into flames.
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Man, your Ultra has gone through a lot!
Dang, didn't think they'd go out of stock. Pretty much the only online seller I trusted, because they compare OEM displays with fakes.
As for the battery, I don't remember how I got it out. I took it apart over a year ago when I bought a non-OEM display, so the adhesive was already loose. If you're in a situation where the screen is not working, you could just heat up the front to take the screen off and heat the body where the battery is, that way you're not putting heat directly on the battery.
Just be careful about the connector, especially if it's still plugged in.
SUPERUSER said:
WOW that is cheap! To bad its not available anymore..
I have a question. How did you remove the battery?
.
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If it's Z Ultra we are talking about - you unscrew 4 screws on each corner and pry battery from the right side with a plastic tool. It has two adhesive strips on both left and right side.
Though you don't need to take the battery out if you want to replace the screen, the connectors are at the bottom and accesible with just the metal cover removal.
By the way the reason why touch stops working the moment your screen cracks is because the capacitive layer is integrated into the glass, and when it breaks the connection is severed and no longer working. It is a shame, and the glass on this particular phone is very fragile, I suggest putting a tempered glass protector on it, so far mine holds up fine with it.
If you don't want to go thru hassle of repairing it and looking for a new device: the Z5 or XZ premium I think are best options of the sony side as the XA Ultra gives midrange experience at best.
On the same screen size id give S8+ or Note 8 a shot, they look promising.
IGnoTon said:
If it's Z Ultra we are talking about - you unscrew 4 screws on each corner and pry battery from the right side with a plastic tool. It has two adhesive strips on both left and right side.
Though you don't need to take the battery out if you want to replace the screen, the connectors are at the bottom and accesible with just the metal cover removal.
By the way the reason why touch stops working the moment your screen cracks is because the capacitive layer is integrated into the glass, and when it breaks the connection is severed and no longer working. It is a shame, and the glass on this particular phone is very fragile, I suggest putting a tempered glass protector on it, so far mine holds up fine with it.
If you don't want to go thru hassle of repairing it and looking for a new device: the Z5 or XZ premium I think are best options of the sony side as the XA Ultra gives midrange experience at best.
On the same screen size id give S8+ or Note 8 a shot, they look promising.
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Thank you. I had trouble locating where the glue strips are so I kind of felt my way where there was something sticky but didn't make much progress.
I got one corner out but then I gave up.
Since a few years I use tempered glass back and front. They are a lifesaver! Not very cheap but worth every penny.
I'm not sure if I'm going to take my phone apart for the tenth time or so..its very fiddly to solder this tiny usb connector.
Atm i'm using the magnetic cable and a phone case so it stays in place but I'm working on a "workaround" with my old battery case with two 18awg cables soldered to the dock pins (cause I hit current limit with thinner awg) and ordered a dip to micro usb board to solder these cables onto.
So the case only contains a strait path from the usb port to the dock connector on the battery case.
The idea is If the port brakes I ware out the dip board instead of the internal usb port when charging.
Easy maintance and low cost of replacement parts. Ten dip boards for 1 usd vs 2 usd for three internal usb ports.
And I don't have to worry about the magnetic dock cable coming loose all the time.
I started to look for a new device a month ago. Its showing its age.
I'll continue writing in the other thread..so we don't go too off topic.
Fck
Sadly an extreme issue with Sony phones for many years. Along with the dreaded sudden death that effects so many models its more widespread then LG bootloop and Apple bendgate combined.... And somehow denied as a defect by Sony and unknown and disbelieve by many....
Both issues I think however are rectified since 2017 I believe though.... Finally