RepairsUniverse has compiled a written guide to walk you through the disassembly of your Samsung Galaxy S4 smartphone enabling you to replace damaged parts.
Suggested Replacement Part(s):
Samsung Galaxy S4 Touch Screen Digitizer + LCD Screen Replacement
Samsung Galaxy S4 Replacement Battery
Adhesive Strips
Tools Required:
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Safe Open Pry Tool
Samsung Galaxy S4 Take Apart Repair Guide:
First step is to completely power down the device and remove the battery cover using the safe open pry tool
Remove the battery and SIM card and/or Micro SD card
Next you will need to remove 9 Phillips screws which are located in the image below
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Using a safe pry tool, gently lift the speaker assembly from the retaining clips on the bottom of the device
Now we are ready to remove the front bezel. Slide your pry tool slowly around the perimeter to release the clips
It is now safe to remove the back housing
You will now need to release the 8 connections that are circled in the image below
Remove the metal shield that is covering the charging port
You can gently remove the charging port flex cable which is held in by a bit of adhesive
Remove the long antenna on the right side of the device
The motherboard is being held in by one small Phillips screw and once removed the motherboard with camera can be removed
Once the mother board has been removed you can then start removing the vibrating motor, headphone jack, front facing camera, proximity sensor and the earpiece speaker
Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.
Repairs Universe's guides are for informational purposes only
Related
supplies : a phillips screwdriver, star screwdriver, snap-off blade cutter, sandpaper, guitar peak or your nail, scotch tape
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they are screwdrivers what I'm using ^_^
1.Loosen a screw.
phillipse 4
star 6
totally, we need to loosen 10 screws. ( I don't know why xperia s use two method lol)
2.Take off back cover.
open HDMI cap, and spread back cover with your nail or kinds of lever.
Then, spread othersides too.
warning!!!
Don't open cover too much.
A cable is connected at back cover and main body.
It is!
It's simply connected, so just lift little bit with guitar peak.
And then, separating finish!
3.Cutting back cover
modification changable battery is very very very simple
because,
1. seperate back cover, cut. finish
2.main body is safe and we will play with back cover that can play little roughly.
Let's cut~
first, remove insulating tape
if you think removing insulating tape is not good, you can cut little under of them
I think there is no problem.
You can do fast if you scrape edge of them with guitar peak or snap-off blade cutter
removing insulating tape finish!
now, cut red line.
I barely did with heating snap-off blade cutter with lighter + mother's help.
Wow! finish! let's use........OMG it gets stuck
because I just cut 1 line....
someone cut 2 line
but, I use sand paper.
I can see my effort that I did lol
Yeah, cutting is finish. now, assemble![beforehand, remove battery first]
(My picture is already assembled....)
assembling is
connecting cable of back cover,
inserting back cover to main body,
tighten screw.
4.Make that battery's seperation is easy.
If you see youtube that I link at down of this post, He make that battery's seperation is easy.
We can also make that!
Use our last supplies, scotch tape.
Get take pull it and attach each of two sides(level of difficulty : difficult lol)
Then you can get smooth-faced tape....board?(I can choose english word @[email protected];
Attach it at battery.
★☆★☆★☆★☆FINISH☆★☆★☆★☆★
My english is poor ~_~
NOW, there is no weakness of XPERIA S!!!!
I'm so happy~
I want you modify like that lol
It is so comfortable.
and modification back cover is not difficult.
so.........
goodbye.
OPPA GANGNAM STYLE!
reference video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGxWHzqPsQc&feature=related&hd=1
who helps me : poby
recommend link of battery :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/27096568412...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
## I'm sorry but I can't answer question ^^
Photograph by Kkobuk (Camera: NIKON COOLPIX P100)
kkobuk's blog http://88turtle.tistory.com/
but whats the point of doing this?
....
It is so that you can have a removable battery I think.
Sent from my LT22i using xda app-developers app
So... This came up in a discussion recently, and people find it annoying after a while, so might as well fix it!
Strictly speaking, this shouldn't void your warranty (as the warranty screws in the back are left untouched), however, any1 opening the phone will immediately know that it was oppened.
Let's begin:
1: Using a heat gun/hairdryer heat the edges of the screen (not too much).
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2: Using a case opener tool get in under the bottom edge of the screen.
3: Once the bottom is lifted work your way around the sides of the screen (reheat as necessary).
4: Apply heat to the top edge of the touchscreen and lift it gently using the top edge as a pivot point.
5: Congrats! Hard part over, the rest is a walk in the park. The following picture shows where most of the light bleeding happens. The bleed that interests us is the one in the lower right corner (or rather lower left in this pic as I'm an idiot as far as camerawork goes).
6: Cut a piece of the material of your choosing apply a bit of double sided adhesive tape and slap it right on top of the light bleed.
7: If you did a perfect job opening the phone you can reuse the factory glue to hold the digitizer in place, however as that is unlikely proceed to removing the stray bits of the old adhesive tape and replace them with new tape (2 thin pieces on the sides, 1 fat piece on the bottom and 2 fat pieces around the flat cable on top)
8: Put the digitizer back in its proper place (slide the top in first and then drop the rest into place) and you're done!
Hope this helps!
Notes:
My cam sux... sorry
My workdesk choice also sux
The reason pics are missing for the gluing stage is that I need to replace the whole digitizer on this phone but the replacement part hasn't arrived yet so i decided not to glue it together as I will have to unglue it again this week.
Hey there guys today I'm going to show you how to repair your usb cable (top part) if the cable has been broken! If the cable has been suddenly dead and you see that one of your 4 inner cables are partially broken!)
What you need:
A screw driver or something that can tear loose the plastic part on the top of the cable (or something similar) I'm a screw driver)
This is what i used:
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Now be careful we don't want to break anything! we want to be able to use the parts again after you fixed the steps
Once you taken the plastic part of and that damn rubber thingy
You'll see 2 metallic peaces that holds together everything. Be careful when taking these away these are useful!
Once they are removed you should have a cable looking like this
Now the tricky part is to not start to remove the green part and pull the cables out. make sure you remember the order! else it won't charge! (See picture) for correct order!
Picture taken from downside of the usb
Picture taken from upper side of the usb
NOTE The 4 cables needs to have same length so they all get connected properly!
Once you put them in correctly put back the green part and the black part, press so you hear a slightly click!
Once done put the metallic parts back (the one that is inside of the other is bottom part) the metallic that goes above the other one is top part!
Once done put back the plastic on and you're done! :highfive:
I know it looks horrible but at least the cable is working!
Nice Guide
And thank you for taking time to post.
Yes i already knew how to do this BUT for the noobies a handy guide
Over here in uk as we are lazy buggers we pop to the Pound shop and grab another!
Careful with getting another one
Cheap USB cables are 24/24 and can only provide 300-500mA power,
you need a proper quality 24/28 cable that is certified to atleast 1200mA for the Lg G3, and a 2A cable is recommended.
its a bit more expensive
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker®-5-Pa...id=1429352682&sr=8-6&keywords=micro+usb+cable
But when you notice that your phone is charging twice as fast as that PoS you got at poundland you know its worth the money.
Hey guys, long time reader, first time poster here (and it's a long one too).
My OnePlus X is my daily driver and I was planning on using it for some more years if this is fixable
Recently the USB port started to fail, so I decided to replace the part. A little setback was that i also had to replace the GSM antenna cable, which I had damaged during disassembly. So far so good, the phone is now charging again and reception and mobile data are working fine.
However, ever since the repair my Wifi reception has gone to ****, it is now so bad that it's pretty much unusable even when right next to the router. I've come to the conclusion that this is not a problem with the antenna cable replacement, as removing this cable only kills cell reception, wifi is unchanged. You can see the cable i'm talking about running into the long side of the frame in the bottom of this
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, with the golden connector on the lower edge of the motherboard (the other side connects to the USB flex cable, under the metal housing on the right). I believe the Wifi chipset itself is contained within the small housing in the upper middle of the board, with the + sign.
So now on to my question:
Does anyone know where exactly the wifi antenna on this phone is located? I'm assuming that it is being routed into the plastic/metal housing cover that's over the mainboard. I've made sure that none of the pins on the motherboard that connect to the housing cover are missing/bent or corroded. I've angled them up a little bit and cleaned them with alcohol to ensure a good contact.
But still, no wifi. Is it possible that the wifi chip itself got damaged in the repair and is there any way to find out?
Hopefully someone here knows something useful, I would be eternally grateful
Did you ever find a fix? I am having similar problems for one plus 3t
No, zero news on that front. I did some superficial research but was unable to pin-point the fault. I had to replace the phone, sadly.
Hey, how many of these little guys stay up and working?
Today I've opened my carp (42 mm edition) to look at the ports, just to look at the possibility of connecting it via USB for modding, root, flashing ROMs, etc. (so bad there's almost no scene on this device series ) when suddenly a crazy idea just crossed my mind: Why don't try to expose the guts of this old, used (and abused) watch, like those expensive skeleton watches?
So I've inspected carefully the back glass cover and noticed that there was a gluey sticker between the glass and the device itself. After removing the sticker, the glass is exposed and ready for some abuse.
The sticker:
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The next step was to find a way to remove the paint without damaging the glass itself, so I've taken a knife and tried, with success, to gently scratch the paint. TBH, I'm very surprised of the scratching resistance of that glass piece, because you can give it some serious abuse (like fast, hard scratching) without leaving marks on it, so if you try to do this mod you don't need to worry too much about damaging it, just don't apply too much strength and pressure to avoid deep scratches or breaking the glass (if you hold it on your hand or on top of a soft, non-hard surface).
After about 30-40 minutes of scratching paint, I've cleaned the glass with my breath and a cloth, applied some thin double-side tape (aka. smartphone tape, very useful when repairing stuff like that) to fix the glass on place and did the same for the outer plastic ring. Now, here's the result:
As you can see below, the text remains intact, I suppose that is printed deeper inside the glass or something:
Looks pretty nice if you like the look of the bare naked electronics. Aside from that, I feel sorry for that disturbing off-center white ring (I guess it has moved a bit when I've put the glass back on the watch) and that wire that separated from the charging coil when I oppened the watch. Maybe I'll fix it one day. Cheers.
EDIT: I've done a WatchMaker watchface matching the skeleton style of my back cover. Here's a picture, I've attached the .watch file for anyone to use it:
Very nice mod! Will be replacing the battery on my 42mm soon and will have to give this a go.