Related
I like my EVO 3D but realize it isn't perfect however some things may be fixable via an update.
Since some barely talk on their phone and use text while other barely text etc. I'm curious what effects the most people?
I've experienced a few of the items listed but not all. I'll admit even if the picture quality isn't great I use my phone so infrequently it won't really bother me ever but I thought I'd include the most common issues people post about.
Mine is the speaker phone. I don't make many "real" calls, but I do make about 10 or 15 calls to automated systems a day. I have enter strings of 24 digits at a rip then listen to what the system says. It's so much easier on speaker phone but a lot of times I have hold the speaker up to my ear to hear them. I've used equalizer, but really the phone just needs a bigger speaker.
I have my gf set the alarms in am on her cheap prepaid phone because that thing is twice as loud as my mega superphone.
Everything else will be fixed with cm7!
Camera freezing after taking a photo. The issue is rather random and I never had the issue before applying the OTA. I'm willing to wager that another software update can patch this.
Battery life was a huge issue for me till I got the Airrave. I think this is caused by the reception problem on this phone. So I'd probably say the choppy call quality (or lack there of) is the biggest issue next to dropped calls for me. These may all be related but since I bought a phone I would think that is what they'd make sure works properly.
Drewmungus said:
Mine is the speaker phone. I don't make many "real" calls, but I do make about 10 or 15 calls to automated systems a day. I have enter strings of 24 digits at a rip then listen to what the system says. It's so much easier on speaker phone but a lot of times I have hold the speaker up to my ear to hear them. I've used equalizer, but really the phone just needs a bigger speaker.
I have my gf set the alarms in am on her cheap prepaid phone because that thing is twice as loud as my mega superphone.
Everything else will be fixed with cm7!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
use QPST to raise the volume, there is a post around here showing you how to do it.
My biggest problem with the EVO3D would have to be the *****ing that seems to follow it everywhere.
My biggest problem is no problems.
The only issue I have had is the GPS jumping all over the place, I *think* mostly when it is plugged in to the charger at the same time. Haven't seen a lot of talk about it, so this is what it does.
I can be going down the interstate at 75, no turn for 75 miles, and it will start telling to turn right, turn left, turn left, back on interstate for 75 miles. Then 10 seconds later it jumps me over to random road 1/2 mile away and tells me to turn, turn, turn, turn, then continue on for 74 miles. Etc. It happens in any nav program, Sygic, Google nav, telenav, etc. So it has to be hardware related, and seems to happen the most when it is plugged in to the car charger at the same time?? Anyone else?
Brew
It is interesting to see the results. I would think the choppy phone quality would be numer one but it is clear the speaker volume is the more common concern?
Would any of you be willing to say if the speaker problem is a bigger issue for phone calls or for other functions e.g. games/videos etc.
Were is the option for nothing
My GPS is flawless and I've never had it reboot on me once.
Everything else listed is a problem though.
Calls drop, constant 3g-4g switching even though I have a stronger 4g signal, overheating after about 5 minutes of playing any game or media file, low volume...and sometimes just a flat out unresponsive touch interface (doesn't respond to touching certain areas of the screen...sometimes).
Hey, it's a great gps but a chud stain phone.
camera
chlehqls said:
Camera freezing after taking a photo. The issue is rather random and I never had the issue before applying the OTA. I'm willing to wager that another software update can patch this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
camera issue +1
Just switched to the 3d from the OG EVO... One thing jumps out to me is the ringers, notifications, movie/video playback etc is super duper low compared to the first evo and I don't wanna sound like a noob but the font size on the apps are smaller oh and call quality is bad, some of my contacts are linking with the wrong names, the wallpaper has a cropping bug and i still get the sense crash from time to time, but with all that said its still a better phone that my OG EVO
S/N: battery life is a bit better but Im still going to purchase a extended battery
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA Premium App
camera ...ringtone and media volume
Les_Vegas said:
Just switched to the 3d from the OG EVO... One thing jumps out to me is the ringers, notifications, movie/video playback etc is super duper low compared to the first evo and I don't wanna sound like a noob but the font size on the apps are smaller oh and call quality is bad, some of my contacts are linking with the wrong names, the wallpaper has a cropping bug and i still get the sense crash from time to time, but with all that said its still a better phone that my OG EVO
S/N: battery life is a bit better but Im still going to purchase a extended battery
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my PG86100 using XDA App
Smaller text is due to a larger resolution right?
For me it's definitely either the cellular/data radio or sprints (lack of) service. At home I get on average of 1-2 bars and at work, 0 (no service) - 1 bars. Makes for extremely piss poor battery life as well as extremely delayed and troublesome texts/calls/notifications.
Hmmm let's see no s-off
Wait a minute we have it now and like 9 roms to go with it all problems with is phone are officially fixed
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
clutch_08 said:
Were is the option for nothing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once you create a poll, you can't edit or add to it.
My only prob is that I can't get the phone out of my hand.
Locked & Loaded
I'm hoping an xda developer figures a way to fix some of these items so we don't have to wait for HTC to figure them out. The things I'd love as a priority for an xda version would be better signal/call quality and tethering.
Problems? We dont have no stinkin problems! The Evo 3D has worked perfectly for me so far (6 more days on 30 day return...)
You want problems, move to T-Mo and buy a G2x!
I am a very heavy user and sometimes have to swap between 3-4 different extended batteries before I can recharge. Because of this fact calibration doesn't work for me, the red battery low led blinks at me about 80% of the time.... Is there an edit i can do somewhere to turn it off?
from my X2 roaming the north
LordRalh3 said:
I am a very heavy user and sometimes have to swap between 3-4 different extended batteries before I can recharge. Because of this fact calibration doesn't work for me, the red battery low led blinks at me about 80% of the time.... Is there an edit i can do somewhere to turn it off?
from my X2 roaming the north
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use Light Flow Lite - LED Control. It just checked and it does have control for the Low Battery Notification LED. Check it out.
Ciao!
Yea definately go with Light Flow. It is worth the 5 bucks (I believe) for the full version. There is a free version, with less features of course, but it gets the job done. You can control, like MoonShadow said, all of the LED notifications throughout your system, which is awfully convenient.
+1 Lightflow is definitely the best option.
Sent from my DROID X2 using xda premium
Got the free version now but the question is still on the table because running yet another program is not the best option for this, its gotta be written somewhere in a "build.prop" type of file that could be tweaked to your preference, basically manually doing once what liteflow does for all of those other options
from my X2 roaming the north
I have not tried this so make a backup before you do this. If you don't typically use your red LED you can turn the brightness down to 0, it will technically still "blink" but you won't see it. Go to /sys/class/leds/red/ open max_brightness in text editor and the number should be something like 225, turn that to 0. Reboot and see if that works.
That actually sounds like a feasible option there
And u also just gave me another idea caden
I was looking around in there and found the pcs backlight "brightness" and the value changes when I change my display brightness. I have been trying to find a way to lower brightness below what the slider allows. This way I don't need an app running to make it even dimmer to save battery. And with root explorer I can make a shortcut right to it when I want to change it.
The lowest value I've seen is 30. Im gonna try 20, then 15 and if I can still see then 10. Hoping this will help save battery when I don't need such bright screen.
Hoping ill be able to find something that shows the "minimum allowed by slider" or similar then I could edit that and be able torestore just use slider. I KNOW it goes lower than 30 cuz when using battery manager and battery goes lower than 30 it dims the screen even lower than I had it set.
Wow...sorry everyone lol..I didn't mean to hijack..was kinda related when I started. I know others might be interested in this also. I will post my findings after I give it a shot tomorrow. Gonna nandroid first of course in case anyone else tries this before me.
LordRalh3 said:
I am a very heavy user and sometimes have to swap between 3-4 different extended batteries before I can recharge. Because of this fact calibration doesn't work for me, the red battery low led blinks at me about 80% of the time.... Is there an edit i can do somewhere to turn it off?
from my X2 roaming the north
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im.just a little curious as to why u can't throw it.on the charger b4 going thru 4batteries? I mean I understand completely how heavy ur use might be as I am the same way. I can drain a stock battery in 3-4hrs sometimes(less sometimes) and I have 2fully charged batteries in my wallet all the time.
I recommend getting a desktop battery charger if u don't have one. Cheap on ebay.(I assume u already have one tho)
Edit::I tend to forget that not everyone wears pants wit pockets near the knee and can just easily bring their charger ANYWHERE lol. I have even asked bartenders to let me use outlets.
I'm glad my post gave some insight haha. Let me know if it works.
Also as a side note, maybe his signature indicates he travels a lot up north somewhere (wilderness areas?) which would mean no outlet to charge. Just a guess.
Sent from my DROID X2 using xda premium
Might be worth checking out that newfangled solar charger thingamajig then
I love this place...ill be dimming my brightness for the led shortly +1 man, and your welcome to talk anything you want here ash your definitely one of my favorites here, the screen brightness ill probly do as well although i wonder if that one could be made into one of the drop down toggles or tell me how to do the R. E. shortcut , i have to use screen filter at night especially outside.
Im not sure what newfangled solar charger but id definitely like a link, most solar for phones is super lame and low end, i am outside ALOT, so really just can't plug in anywhere and j don't ask anyone if i can plug in i wait for home , with all my power in my spares and my energizer powerpaq (that babys 4000+ mAh by itself) i can go over two weeks without needing an outlet, (all my pants are cargo jeans so i "do" have pockets at my knees
from my X2 roaming the north
LordRalh3 said:
I love this place...ill be dimming my brightness for the led shortly +1 man, and your welcome to talk anything you want here ash your definitely one of my favorites here, the screen brightness ill probly do as well although i wonder if that one could be made into one of the drop down toggles or tell me how to do the R. E. shortcut , i have to use screen filter at night especially outside.
Im not sure what newfangled solar charger but id definitely like a link, most solar for phones is super lame and low end, i am outside ALOT, so really just can't plug in anywhere and j don't ask anyone if i can plug in i wait for home , with all my power in my spares and my energizer powerpaq (that babys 4000+ mAh by itself) i can go over two weeks without needing an outlet, (all my pants are cargo jeans so i "do" have pockets at my knees
from my X2 roaming the north
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANKS bro
I haven't been able to test the LCD backlight setting yet.
I will edit this on my break with instructions on how to shortcut wit RE.
And HOLY crap a WEEK? LOL
That sounds like something I should do Hahaha ...id need a LOT of batteries tho
To make a bookmark in R.E. navigate to the file u would like to make a shortcut/bookmark to. Instead of tapping to open it just long press the file and select "add bookmark"
Then next time all you need to do is open R.E and press menu>bookmarks and u can go straight to that file.
Also...if u use a launcher such as ADW ex(what I use) or Launcher Pro, they allow you to create a custom shortcut right on ur homescreen and u can set am "activity" an app does. For instance in this case I have a custom shortcut set up that I chose the "activity" under root explorer called "Root explorer(Bookmarks List)" so that when I touch the shortcut(app icon on homescreen) it takes me directly to my root explorer bookmarks instead of having to open RE and press menu>bookmarks.
custom activity shortcuts are so sweet
I've never used the bookmark feature. I'll have to add a few things to that.
Sent from my DROID X2 using xda premium
CadenH said:
I've never used the bookmark feature. I'll have to add a few things to that.
Sent from my DROID X2 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah its very useful. Especially foe things u just happen to stumble on and might be hard to find again if its deep in a bunch of different folders w/ a weird name lol.
And the custom activity short cuts allows u to open to any activity just about that any app does
One of the biggest features that reviewers kept touting was this thing's ability to fire off 20-100 pictures in a blast, and that the shutter speed is near instantaneous.
In the month I've had this phone, I've...never quite experienced this. Usually when I take a picture, it'll kind of pause for a second and then go. Not terribly slow or anything. Still a bit faster than any other camera I've had. However, if I hold down the button in an attempt to capture more than one picture, the result is this:
It'll often pause for about 2 seconds, then one little preview image will "pop" over to the icon in the corner, and then I can hold the button down for 6-8 more seconds, and after it "saves photos" the result is 4. I think the most I've ever gotten is 5. If I have the sound on, it'll make the "shutter" sound like 3-4 times a second, but I'll still only end up with 2-4 pictures. Usually takes one picture about 2 seconds after I press the button, and then one picture taken right as I took my finger off the button. Also, unlike the previews i saw where each picture from burst mode is a nice action shot, I just get 4 images that are completely out of focus 80% of the time.
As far as I know, this is the same whether I use the physical or software shutter button. Is this..normal behavior?
Edit: Wow what do you know. I just tried it 4 more times because I'm sitting here thinking about it, and one of the times I actually got 9 photos! At least I know it's capable of it.
I get several photos in burst mode. But I definitely don't get as many as the shutter sound goes off. Frequently I expect 8 or 10 But only get 3-5. But I have gotten as many as 15.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
Turn off the image cap in the camera settings. I don't remember which drop down it's in, sorry. It helps a lot though. Just remember that I'd toy take too many pictures, it'll take a while to load.
Tapatalked from my shiny new HTC Evo LTE
Not currently running sense, but when I did it worked great...took dozens of pictures, instantaneously with 0 lag
I'd say a factory reset is on the horizons...or a trip to your local s&r center
Where are your pictures being stored? Does it save them to on-phone storage or does it save to a micro-SD card? If you're using a micro-SD card, that may be the cause of the delays. Check what class the card is, should have a letter "C" printed on the card with a number inside it indicating what class it is. A class 4 card is pretty common and inexpensive. A class 10 card has much faster read/write speeds but is also more expensive. Many DSLR cameras (especially ones that do 1080p video) have minimum card class requirements in order to quickly write pictures to the card while shooting quick bursts or high resolution video.
^ If that's the case, you could probably change the setting to store the pictures/video to on-phone or internal storage and I would presume it should perform as advertised until you are able to obtain a higher class card.
I have a class 10 card in there that it saves the pictures to. I bought it because it had great reviews for it's speed. I can imagine if the "saving photos" step would lag if you had a slow card, but I don't know why simply the act of taking a picture would be any slower. I guess I could test it out, but that would make me kind of mad if so.
Another thing I just noticed. If I launch the camera app by pressing the camera icon, it pops up almost immediately. If I press the physical camera button in order to launch the camera app, it takes about 4 seconds to launch.
Shadnic said:
I have a class 10 card in there that it saves the pictures to. I bought it because it had great reviews for it's speed. I can imagine if the "saving photos" step would lag if you had a slow card, but I don't know why simply the act of taking a picture would be any slower. I guess I could test it out, but that would make me kind of mad if so.
Another thing I just noticed. If I launch the camera app by pressing the camera icon, it pops up almost immediately. If I press the physical camera button in order to launch the camera app, it takes about 4 seconds to launch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you do an actual test on the "class 10" card? Get SD Tools and run it. Post the screenshot here. Also did you format the SD card with the phone or with your PC? It does make a difference. Try saving pictures on the actual phone storage and then post results. You can't use a SD card and then complain it doesn't work as stated. From the sounds of it it's your SD card's fault or you just got a faulty device. Also make sure to turn off the picture cap like someone stated.
If that doesn't fix it and a factory reset doesn't either (make sure to clear Wallet settings before doing this if you use it) then the phone is defective because I and many others (as a matte of fact from a quick search this is the first thread regarding this) don't have the problem. The only thing we all have though is the physical button vs screen button opening lag. I remedied this by just setting a shortcut on my lockscreen to camera, I think HTC is aware of this issue though.
EDIT:
Edit: Wow what do you know. I just tried it 4 more times because I'm sitting here thinking about it, and one of the times I actually got 9 photos! At least I know it's capable of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That definitely sounds like your SD card isn't capable of keeping steady speeds to me.
While I don't get an 'icon pop' for every photo captured, I've had no problem getting 20+ photos in burst mode. Although, I will say it seems depend on what you're capturing. Just one example being: If flash is on (or is on auto and used) and I try to get a burst shot I'll usually only get between 10 - 15. Class 6 micro SD, here.
Where is this image cap setting, i looked in all the drop down menus and can't find it
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
I just tried it twice and I got 20 photos each time, does that mean I also have an image cap on? (no SD card)
josh030181 said:
Where is this image cap setting, i looked in all the drop down menus and can't find it
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Under Continuous Shooting.
Tapatalked from my shiny new HTC Evo LTE
Your phone must be messed up. I have used continuous shooting from day one and it works as advertised. Like others have said what settings are you using under camera. I'm on MeanRom and have never had a problem. For a test a changed my continuous setting to 50 pics instead of 20 and it took all 50. Also, a class 10 card is a waste of money unless your using it in a camcorder or 18mp camera. You won't see any benefits in a phone. Class 4 is more than enough speed for this phone and any phone. If you look at what the class numbers mean it is strictly speed for writing not everyday access to the card.
I've noticed that how many pics it takes per second is pretty dependent on the shooting conditions and settings. Have you tried setting the camera back to default settings and shooting in daylight? It makes sense that it shoots slower if you have low light or settings are such that the shutter has to stay open longer.
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
cruise350 said:
Also, a class 10 card is a waste of money unless your using it in a camcorder or 18mp camera. You won't see any benefits in a phone. Class 4 is more than enough speed for this phone and any phone. If you look at what the class numbers mean it is strictly speed for writing not everyday access to the card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True - to an extent. I'd say most cards on the market don't live up to their class rating. Especially if you are buying cheap cards off of Ebay or Amazon.
dsEVOlve said:
I've noticed that how many pics it takes per second is pretty dependent on the shooting conditions and settings. Have you tried setting the camera back to default settings and shooting in daylight? It makes sense that it shoots slower if you have low light or settings are such that the shutter has to stay open longer.
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, I'm curious to test this out. When I'm outside in ideal conditions and I want to take a picture, I simply frame the picture and snap a shot. When I use continuous shooting is when I'm indoors and I want to capture something crazy my pet bird is doing, and lighting conditions are maybe less than "perfect".
I'll try taking the cap off. I noticed there was a cap, but since I never got to 20, I figured why do I need to take it off anyway.
Also don't worry about the SD card. I'm a pretty frugal shopper. I probably looked through the reviews for about 45 different 32gb microSD's on newegg before I decided on this one. Then, I used a combination of coupons and small gift cards to get it down to $2. I certainly didn't pay much
RegnierD said:
Turn off the image cap in the camera settings. I don't remember which drop down it's in, sorry. It helps a lot though. Just remember that I'd toy take too many pictures, it'll take a while to load.
Tapatalked from my shiny new HTC Evo LTE
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Under "Continuous shooting" deselect "Limit to 20 frames." I just took 53 in a row, no problem.
use the internal storage. its write is almost 30 MB/s compared to class 10s being 8-10 MB/s (my pny class 10 is 8 MB/s write)
The zero lag camera, excellent quality with pics, macro, video etc are some of the best aspects of this cell. Coupled with the Mic, noise canceling filters, low light filters its truly amazing. Ask any iPhone user who compared, they will tell you the truth.
Sent from my htc_jewel using xda app-developers app
Was on stock and now the team pkmn rom, and my camera always works as advertised. Using a class 4 32g. I'll snap off 20-50 pics pretty unbelievably fast. After I'm done, I do notice a moments hesitation though, especially with 50ish shots .
Sent from my EVO using xda app-developers app
i cant get passed 45..but could care less because i keep the 20 limit cap on anyways...I may unlock the cap at the Pepsi 400 this weekend.
Hi there,
Has anyone managed to get a decent refresh rate using the N10 as an extra screen? I have Windows 7 x64 and have tried to use
1) Air Display -
Sort of works without the Beta driver, but refresh still too slow. Works best connected using Connectify Dispatch Hotspot. But forces full resolution and have not got it working with USB
2) iDisplay - Has several "Compression" options and works via USB or Wifi. Also has 4 resolution settings but does not seem to refresh more than once every few mins.
3) REDFLY ScreenSlider. Comes close to working but still does not refresh often enough and seems slightly unstable.
In general using the dispatch hotspot, so the tablet is connected directly to the laptop via wifi should provide more than enough bandwidth yet it hardly seems to use it.
Any hints tips or ideas would be welcome.
thanks.
Broomfundel said:
so the tablet is connected directly to the laptop via wifi should provide more than enough bandwidth yet it hardly seems to use it.
Any hints tips or ideas would be welcome.
thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol? Wifi at the absolute very latest and greatest is 1.3gb/s, actual throughput is far less. 2560x1600 resolution at 60Hz refresh uses 8.75gb/s of throughput. So you cannot possible run the Nexus 10 resolution at normal refresh rate over wifi. That much bandwidth over wifi would be completely impossible anytime in the next 5 years, probably closer to 10 years before wifi gets enough bandwidth to do something like that.
The best you can do is use an advanced compression algorithm and MAYBE you could get 1080p @ 24Hz over wifi on this tablet. Depending on the compression, you might even be able to get that up to something like 30Hz. But that would take some heavy h.264 compression that would use a good chunk of your tablets CPU
EniGmA1987 said:
lol? Wifi at the absolute very latest and greatest is 1.3gb/s, actual throughput is far less. 2560x1600 resolution at 60Hz refresh uses 8.75gb/s of throughput.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How to you get to that number? If I do a quick calculation:
2560x1600 Resolution x 60 Hz x 3 Byte per Pixel =~ 700 MByte/sec.
That sounds doable.
Niggo372 said:
How to you get to that number? If I do a quick calculation:
2560x1600 Resolution x 60 Hz x 3 Byte per Pixel =~ 700 MByte/sec.
That sounds doable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm assuming you think 1 pixel is 3 bytes as in 1 for red, green, and blue, but that is incorrect. There is actually no 3 bit color scheme as far as I know. Let me elaborate.
Color depth scale:
2 colors - 1 bit
4 colors - 2 bit
16 colors - 4 bit
256 colors - 8 bit
64K - 16 bit
16M - 32 bit
So assuming you have a 1080p monitor: 1920*1080*32*60 = 3981932000 bits or 3.9Gbps (~500 MBps). So even if your WiFi was N and maxed out at the theoretical max speed of 600 Mbps (75 MBps) you would need some serious compression. Not even an Ethernet to USB adapter would help.
I don't know what the color depth of the Nexus 10 is, but at 32 bit and 60hz, that is 7.8 Gbps or ~1GBps.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using xda app-developers app
Broomfundel said:
2) iDisplay - Has several "Compression" options and works via USB or Wifi. Also has 4 resolution settings but does not seem to refresh more than once every few mins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does USB work for you? I tried it earlier, and it only crashed the display server on my desktop. WiFi worked fine though, aside from being extremely slow.
espionage724 said:
Does USB work for you? I tried it earlier, and it only crashed the display server on my desktop. WiFi worked fine though, aside from being extremely slow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, yes, USB works fine. If you set the compression high enough and resolution low enough, it is the best of the bad bunch so far. AirDisplay looks like it would be best if you could change the resolution, but that's not an option.
As for the condescending post above, don't worry. Splashtop does this for the Ipad and have it working. We have 3 programs on android almost doing it. So I doubt it will take 10 years. Modern PC's and tablets are more than powerful enough to en/decode compressed streams.
I'll keep playing and post anything I find.
Splashtop 2 works incredibly well both as a second screen and as a separate mouse/keyboard combo. Even on a crappy WiFi network I was able to work with minimal latency issues. The problems arose when I downloaded larger files and started a video stream on one screen, but software seemed to work out the kinks quite swiftly. :good:
RaAkhenaton said:
Splashtop 2 works incredibly well both as a second screen and as a separate mouse/keyboard combo. Even on a crappy WiFi network I was able to work with minimal latency issues. The problems arose when I downloaded larger files and started a video stream on one screen, but software seemed to work out the kinks quite swiftly. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you explain how to do this? I've used Splashtop but I don't know how to set it up like this.
leeznon said:
Can you explain how to do this? I've used Splashtop but I don't know how to set it up like this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has taken a bit of digging, but I have got Splashtop working as an extra monitor. It actually works better than expected.
1st you must have a virtual monitor set up.
To do this at the moment im using http://www.zoneos.com/zonescreen.htm
This installs a virtual graphics card. After a reboot, go to the monitors section and hit "Detect" You PC will find 2 "Unattached" monitors. Set up one of them to the resolution your going to use.
(I'm finding 1600x1200 which is the maximum it allows works quite well, but for poor network performance just reduce this)
You also place it in relation to your other screens as normal.
Now just use Splashtop to connect to your PC and toggle screens until your viewing your new (in my case 3rd) screen.
Alas it re-routes the audio to the tablet as well, but much closer to what Im aiming for.
If anybody has offerings for virtual monitor software, keeping audio on the pc with splashtop etc.. please chip in.
Broomfundel said:
It has taken a bit of digging, but I have got Splashtop working as an extra monitor. It actually works better than expected.
1st you must have a virtual monitor set up.
To do this at the moment im using http://www.zoneos.com/zonescreen.htm
This installs a virtual graphics card. After a reboot, go to the monitors section and hit "Detect" You PC will find 2 "Unattached" monitors. Set up one of them to the resolution your going to use.
(I'm finding 1600x1200 which is the maximum it allows works quite well, but for poor network performance just reduce this)
You also place it in relation to your other screens as normal.
Now just use Splashtop to connect to your PC and toggle screens until your viewing your new (in my case 3rd) screen.
Alas it re-routes the audio to the tablet as well, but much closer to what Im aiming for.
If anybody has offerings for virtual monitor software, keeping audio on the pc with splashtop etc.. please chip in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I'm gonna try this as soon as I get my N10!
Broomfundel said:
It has taken a bit of digging, but I have got Splashtop working as an extra monitor. It actually works better than expected.
1st you must have a virtual monitor set up.
To do this at the moment im using http://www.zoneos.com/zonescreen.htm
This installs a virtual graphics card. After a reboot, go to the monitors section and hit "Detect" You PC will find 2 "Unattached" monitors. Set up one of them to the resolution your going to use.
(I'm finding 1600x1200 which is the maximum it allows works quite well, but for poor network performance just reduce this)
You also place it in relation to your other screens as normal.
Now just use Splashtop to connect to your PC and toggle screens until your viewing your new (in my case 3rd) screen.
Alas it re-routes the audio to the tablet as well, but much closer to what Im aiming for.
If anybody has offerings for virtual monitor software, keeping audio on the pc with splashtop etc.. please chip in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For everyone using windows 7 who is looking to do this, a simpler solution that doesn't require 3rd party install.
Hit the "windows button" + "p" on your keyboard, and select "Extended"
Right click your home screen and select "Screen Resolution"
Move the second display to where you would like it positioned and select the appropriate resolution (1366x768 worked best for me) and hit "Apply"
Open Splashtop 2 on your tablet and connect to your computer.
Hit the onscreen options button in Splashtop on your tablet, and select the image that looks like monitors with a "1" and "2" on them.
Enjoy!
Hope this helps as I was searching around for quite awhile, and wasn't able to get anything working before I stumbled upon this.
Lately I've been digging into the speaker amps to see if I could resolve some of the complaints I've had with them. These chips don't seem to have any detailed information anywhere so I thought I'd document my findings here in hopes that it may be useful to others and more information might come to light.
NXP has a couple pdfs with a basic overview of the chip here: TFA9890_SDS.pdf, TFA9890A_SDS.pdf
No idea what the difference is between "TFA9890" and "TFA9890A", but the A rev PDF has some more details to it at least.
Kernel drivers for the TFA chips have been hard to find, and there's no "standard" driver.
1. Motorola seems to have written their own in-house kernel driver for it which is in the shamu kernel of course. It appears to have originated from the Moto X ("ghost") kernel, and it is by far the cleanest looking and most legible driver I've found.
2. Sony has a very ugly looking driver. They do have the registers documented the best I've seen so far though.
3. OnePlus has another odd-looking driver, this one has NXP copyright headers on it but seems to be related to the Sony one.
Problem Solving
One issue I had with the amps was how the volume cut way back when the battery voltage dropped below a certain point. I'm not talking just the gradual drop-off that happens as the battery voltage lowers over time (which is understandable), I'm talking the volume all of a sudden being halved. It turns out this is a feature of the amp:
"By limiting the supply current when the battery voltage is low, it prevents the audio system from drawing excessive load currents from the battery, which could cause a system undervoltage."
This happens by default at 3.53V. I was surprised to find that the Nexus 6 pushes the battery voltage enough for 3.53V to not only be reached, but surpassed, to as low as 3.0V. There's no way in hell the amps are powerful enough to cause a half-volt drop.
Adjusting the protection voltage level resolves this annoyance. For details, see register 0x05.
NOTE: With the Marshmallow update, the "Empty Learning Feature" of the MAX17042 battery gauge chip was enabled, and for some reason this isn't letting the battery drop to voltages as low as it previously did. So to users it may now seem like the speaker volume @ low battery issue is improved, but it's really due to what was once "35%" battery now being more like "15%".
Lately I've ran into an issue with the amps being more aggressive than they used to be with limiting the volume output. Not sure what's going on, but it started after missing an alarm for 20 minutes which was eventually interrupted by an incoming phone call. I wonder if something happened with the transition between the equalizer preset things that caused damage to the amp or speaker somehow. For the first day after this started, playing music at anywhere over 45% volume resulted in instant "volume throttling", and the more I turned it up the worse it got, eventually so bad that I couldn't hear a damn thing from the bottom speaker at all and barely heard the top one. A few days later this has greatly improved, but it's still not like it was when I got my N6.
Driver Comparison/Analysis
The Sony and OnePlus drivers disable clock gating when resetting the DSP, Moto's does not;
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...c/sound/soc/codecs/tfa/src/initTfa9890.c#L107
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...5.1.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890/tfa_dsp.c#L289
The Sony and OnePlus drivers set some PLL registers for "optimal amplifier behavior", Moto's doesn't appear to do so;
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...b4cfc/sound/soc/codecs/tfa/src/Tfa98xx.c#L273
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...5.1.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890/tfa_dsp.c#L617
Based on ghost's tfa9890 driver commit history, it seems like this might be taken care of with the firmware patches.
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...mmit/892ac7150aba33e73837e3c713812599ba004355
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...mmit/63fdeaa3c79a765f1c04f4b51c71cbb217db6707
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...mmit/1ac301a19efb69f3d466fc53c6880db886409be3
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...mmit/058e87a8128c233d02dff5290b23f3be0c5e86c9 (Note PLL freq/div info here)
The Sony and OnePlus drivers do some weird stuff with register 0x84 (undocumented, related to "MTP" stuff).
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...fc/sound/soc/codecs/tfa/src/initTfa9890.c#L78
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...5.1.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890/tfa_dsp.c#L276
The OnePlus driver even tries to "recover" if 0x84 is empty. It's quite aggressive about it, you'll find it checked in numerous places.
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...5.1.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890/tfa_dsp.c#L812
The OnePlus driver ignores SWS and SPKS status flags in the monitor function.
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...5.1.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890/tfa98xx.c#L284
The main tfa98xx.c file in the OnePlus driver has some minor similarities to the Motorola driver.
Registers
0x00: Status
0x04: I2S Config
0x05: Battery Protection
-- Dropping the ProtectionThreshold (BSST) to 5 (3.23V) is more reasonable for shamu than the default of 8 (3.53V).
0x06: Audio Control
0x07: DCDC Boost
-- Moar voltage, anyone? (DCVO)
0x08: Speaker Calibration
0x09: System Control
0x0A: I2S Select
0x0C: Voltage Sense Config
Few other things that I haven't yet verified if the documentation matches up with the TFA9890:
0x41: PWM Mute Set
0x48: CurrentSense 3
0x49: CurrentSense 4
Note that the Motorola driver does mess with 0x46 through 0x49, but the values don't seem to line up with this file.
TODO
1. Try to dump and document more registers.
2. Figure out how the various eq/config/preset files work.
3. Why does fading sound all the way to one direction still seem to play through both speakers?
4. Can we speed up the channel swapping that occurs upon rotation?
science. This is awesome man.
I wouldn't normally post here but...
It appears that the accelerometer or screen rotation seems to also trigger volume throttling...
And prolonged sound at low battery (racing game) seems to cause problems too...
However... Above 80% battery on the fuel gauge and none of these issues appear
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
rignfool said:
I wouldn't normally post here but...
It appears that the accelerometer or screen rotation seems to also trigger volume throttling...
And prolonged sound at low battery (racing game) seems to cause problems too...
However... Above 80% battery on the fuel gauge and none of these issues appear
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These are interesting observations, and you're spot on with the screen rotation problem.
Screen rotation basically resets the TFA9890 chips to swap the L&R channels, and as a result the chips lose their state about how they were 'volume throttling' previously. The thing that's supposed to make these chips safe for the speakers is they constantly make sure the volume stays low enough not to damage the speakers, but when the chips are reset like that the volume goes back to full bore momentarily and that could very well damage the speakers and make the amps get overtly protective.
I've been able to get in contact with somebody that has worked on the TFA9890. I'm not sure how much they'll be able to share with me (or how much I'll be able to share here), but from what I'm hearing so far the biggest difficulties with the chip is software.
MWisBest said:
I've been able to get in contact with somebody that has worked on the TFA9890. I'm not sure how much they'll be able to share with me (or how much I'll be able to share here), but from what I'm hearing so far the biggest difficulties with the chip is software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough... After about 12 months with the noticeable volume throttle... I switched to leankernel... And cannot get the volume to throttle... @Imoseyon has no idea what he would/could have done to fix it...
The only difference on my end... Would be that I am back to using mpdecision...
Any thoughts?
rignfool said:
Interestingly enough... After about 12 months with the noticeable volume throttle... I switched to leankernel... And cannot get the volume to throttle... @Imoseyon has no idea what he would/could have done to fix it...
The only difference on my end... Would be that I am back to using mpdecision...
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not at all surprised to hear something like this happen. These chips are THAT weird.
One suggestion for others having issues with volume throttling (sometimes referred to as "automatic gain control" (AGC)): try to force a recalibration of the speaker impedance detection.
To do this, just run the following commands (as root):
Code:
echo 1 > /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/tfa9890/8-0034/force_calib
echo 1 > /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/tfa9890/8-0035/force_calib
And then reboot.
If the calibration is off for some reason, it can screw up the calculations for AGC.
MWisBest said:
I'm not at all surprised to hear something like this happen. These chips are THAT weird.
One suggestion for others having issues with volume throttling (sometimes referred to as "automatic gain control" (AGC)): try to force a recalibration of the speaker impedance detection.
To do this, just run the following commands (as root):
Code:
echo 1 > /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/tfa9890/8-0034/force_calib
echo 1 > /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/tfa9890/8-0035/force_calib
And then reboot.
If the calibration is off for some reason, it can screw up the calculations for AGC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So your on the n6 off the gnex. What does the calibration actually do?
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
---------- Post added 17-12-2015 at 12:08 AM ---------- Previous post was 16-12-2015 at 11:55 PM ----------
MWisBest said:
I'm not at all surprised to hear something like this happen. These chips are THAT weird.
One suggestion for others having issues with volume throttling (sometimes referred to as "automatic gain control" (AGC)): try to force a recalibration of the speaker impedance detection.
To do this, just run the following commands (as root):
Code:
echo 1 > /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/tfa9890/8-0034/force_calib
echo 1 > /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/tfa9890/8-0035/force_calib
And then reboot.
If the calibration is off for some reason, it can screw up the calculations for AGC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you seen this
https://youtu.be/oaUtrpALyi8
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
bryantjopplin said:
What does the calibration actually do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The TFA9890 has a DSP on it, which is (at least partially) responsible for the Automatic Gain Control function. The speaker impedance is used as part of the calculations for it. I would assume at the very least it is used for Ohm's law. I find it interesting that the speakers are spec'd at 8Ω, yet the impedance the DSP is reading can be more like 6Ω or 7Ω.
bryantjopplin said:
Have you seen this
https://youtu.be/oaUtrpALyi8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, but it's nothing I'm not already familiar with.
rignfool said:
Interestingly enough... After about 12 months with the noticeable volume throttle... I switched to leankernel... And cannot get the volume to throttle... @Imoseyon has no idea what he would/could have done to fix it...
The only difference on my end... Would be that I am back to using mpdecision...
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have You noticed anything in the kernel that is preventing volume throttle. I am no expert but based on a previous post and 'software' being the difficult aspect of this chip. Maybe it's code that is causing volume throttling.
Would comparing the lean kernal and stock kernal make a difference.
I am highly interested in this thread. I would like to avoid getting a dac/amp external solution if the internal solution will do
Just a little note, there is definitely something up with Alarms that can cause these chips to basically malfunction (at least with my N6).
Today was the fourth time I have tried using my Nexus 6 as an alarm clock, and three of these four times (including this one) have resulted in the AGC acting incredibly stupid, usually lasting about a week. Any music that has even the slightest amount of bass will trigger AGC at as little as 1/4 volume. Nothing makes it past 1/2.
I have tried dumping every damn register when this happens, and then compared it to a register dump when everything works fine, and there's no discernible difference.
My theory is that it may have something to do with what is played for the alarm, at what volume, and for how long.
The one time when this did not happen after using an Alarm, was when I used one of the default alarm tones. The three times alarms did cause the AGC malfunctions were with a fairly heavy rock song with plenty of drums and stuff in it.
Maxed out Alarm volumes can easily cause the amps to clip, regardless of what tone is played. (This is even before the AGC issues start)
I never hear an alarm right away. It usually takes me at least 15 minutes or so to wake up to an alarm.
The amps have different configs applied depending on what is being played through the speakers: music, ringtone, and voice. If Alarms are played with the "ringtone" configuration somehow, it may very well damage the speakers or amplifiers depending on the three things listed above.
Bottom line: if you're a very heavy sleeper like me, I highly suggest avoiding using the Nexus 6 as an alarm clock.
MWisBest said:
Just a little note, there is definitely something up with Alarms that can cause these chips to basically malfunction (at least with my N6).
Today was the fourth time I have tried using my Nexus 6 as an alarm clock, and three of these four times (including this one) have resulted in the AGC acting incredibly stupid, usually lasting about a week. Any music that has even the slightest amount of bass will trigger AGC at as little as 1/4 volume. Nothing makes it past 1/2.
I have tried dumping every damn register when this happens, and then compared it to a register dump when everything works fine, and there's no discernible difference.
My theory is that it may have something to do with what is played for the alarm, at what volume, and for how long.
The one time when this did not happen after using an Alarm, was when I used one of the default alarm tones. The three times alarms did cause the AGC malfunctions were with a fairly heavy rock song with plenty of drums and stuff in it.
Maxed out Alarm volumes can easily cause the amps to clip, regardless of what tone is played. (This is even before the AGC issues start)
I never hear an alarm right away. It usually takes me at least 15 minutes or so to wake up to an alarm.
The amps have different configs applied depending on what is being played through the speakers: music, ringtone, and voice. If Alarms are played with the "ringtone" configuration somehow, it may very well damage the speakers or amplifiers depending on the three things listed above.
Bottom line: if you're a very heavy sleeper like me, I highly suggest avoiding using the Nexus 6 as an alarm clock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This amplifier is such a pain in the butt. Thanks for letting me know about the alarm. I think my alarm didn't go off once or twice in the past. I wonder if using a regular simple ring tone will offset the issue
I've never had a problem with the alarm...But I do use the default alarm tone.
Bumping this in hopes there's been some sort of fix.
Fuzzy13 said:
Bumping this in hopes there's been some sort of fix.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best that I have come up with...
Is to run as bone stock a kernel as possible...
We are truly looking for one that still has the 3 second boost for mpdecision... Factory stock... Pure Nexus... One of those...
And... For added flavor... ARISE sound mod smooths everything out...
However... There is nothing you can do when BCL hits... Your volume will drop...
I'm currently experimenting with the thermal-engine config file and gonna see if throttling at higher battery stops the acute voltage drops that I guess causes the speakers to go quiet...
If anyone is still working on this, I've found a bit of code that looks interesting.
https://github.com/PureNexusProject...b/android-7.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890.c#L783
I've omitted this bit of code, compiled and sound still seems to be working. Might be placebo, but sound seems *a tad bit* louder, but volume deterioration at certain battery levels still in effect.
Any suggestions? What other files can be looked into?
MWisBest said:
Lately I've been digging into the speaker amps to see if I could resolve some of the complaints I've had with them. These chips don't seem to have any detailed information anywhere so I thought I'd document my findings here in hopes that it may be useful to others and more information might come to light.
NXP has a couple pdfs with a basic overview of the chip here: TFA9890_SDS.pdf, TFA9890A_SDS.pdf
No idea what the difference is between "TFA9890" and "TFA9890A", but the A rev PDF has some more details to it at least.
Kernel drivers for the TFA chips have been hard to find, and there's no "standard" driver.
1. Motorola seems to have written their own in-house kernel driver for it which is in the shamu kernel of course. It appears to have originated from the Moto X ("ghost") kernel, and it is by far the cleanest looking and most legible driver I've found.
2. Sony has a very ugly looking driver. They do have the registers documented the best I've seen so far though.
3. OnePlus has another odd-looking driver, this one has NXP copyright headers on it but seems to be related to the Sony one.
Problem Solving
One issue I had with the amps was how the volume cut way back when the battery voltage dropped below a certain point. I'm not talking just the gradual drop-off that happens as the battery voltage lowers over time (which is understandable), I'm talking the volume all of a sudden being halved. It turns out this is a feature of the amp:
"By limiting the supply current when the battery voltage is low, it prevents the audio system from drawing excessive load currents from the battery, which could cause a system undervoltage."
This happens by default at 3.53V. I was surprised to find that the Nexus 6 pushes the battery voltage enough for 3.53V to not only be reached, but surpassed, to as low as 3.0V. There's no way in hell the amps are powerful enough to cause a half-volt drop.
Adjusting the protection voltage level resolves this annoyance. For details, see register 0x05.
NOTE: With the Marshmallow update, the "Empty Learning Feature" of the MAX17042 battery gauge chip was enabled, and for some reason this isn't letting the battery drop to voltages as low as it previously did. So to users it may now seem like the speaker volume @ low battery issue is improved, but it's really due to what was once "35%" battery now being more like "15%".
Lately I've ran into an issue with the amps being more aggressive than they used to be with limiting the volume output. Not sure what's going on, but it started after missing an alarm for 20 minutes which was eventually interrupted by an incoming phone call. I wonder if something happened with the transition between the equalizer preset things that caused damage to the amp or speaker somehow. For the first day after this started, playing music at anywhere over 45% volume resulted in instant "volume throttling", and the more I turned it up the worse it got, eventually so bad that I couldn't hear a damn thing from the bottom speaker at all and barely heard the top one. A few days later this has greatly improved, but it's still not like it was when I got my N6.
Driver Comparison/Analysis
The Sony and OnePlus drivers disable clock gating when resetting the DSP, Moto's does not;
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...c/sound/soc/codecs/tfa/src/initTfa9890.c#L107
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...5.1.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890/tfa_dsp.c#L289
The Sony and OnePlus drivers set some PLL registers for "optimal amplifier behavior", Moto's doesn't appear to do so;
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...b4cfc/sound/soc/codecs/tfa/src/Tfa98xx.c#L273
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...5.1.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890/tfa_dsp.c#L617
Based on ghost's tfa9890 driver commit history, it seems like this might be taken care of with the firmware patches.
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...mmit/892ac7150aba33e73837e3c713812599ba004355
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...mmit/63fdeaa3c79a765f1c04f4b51c71cbb217db6707
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...mmit/1ac301a19efb69f3d466fc53c6880db886409be3
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...mmit/058e87a8128c233d02dff5290b23f3be0c5e86c9 (Note PLL freq/div info here)
The Sony and OnePlus drivers do some weird stuff with register 0x84 (undocumented, related to "MTP" stuff).
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...fc/sound/soc/codecs/tfa/src/initTfa9890.c#L78
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...5.1.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890/tfa_dsp.c#L276
The OnePlus driver even tries to "recover" if 0x84 is empty. It's quite aggressive about it, you'll find it checked in numerous places.
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...5.1.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890/tfa_dsp.c#L812
The OnePlus driver ignores SWS and SPKS status flags in the monitor function.
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...5.1.1/sound/soc/codecs/tfa9890/tfa98xx.c#L284
The main tfa98xx.c file in the OnePlus driver has some minor similarities to the Motorola driver.
Registers
0x00: Status
0x04: I2S Config
0x05: Battery Protection
-- Dropping the ProtectionThreshold (BSST) to 5 (3.23V) is more reasonable for shamu than the default of 8 (3.53V).
0x06: Audio Control
0x07: DCDC Boost
-- Moar voltage, anyone? (DCVO)
0x08: Speaker Calibration
0x09: System Control
0x0A: I2S Select
0x0C: Voltage Sense Config
Few other things that I haven't yet verified if the documentation matches up with the TFA9890:
0x41: PWM Mute Set
0x48: CurrentSense 3
0x49: CurrentSense 4
Note that the Motorola driver does mess with 0x46 through 0x49, but the values don't seem to line up with this file.
TODO
1. Try to dump and document more registers.
2. Figure out how the various eq/config/preset files work.
3. Why does fading sound all the way to one direction still seem to play through both speakers?
4. Can we speed up the channel swapping that occurs upon rotation?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interesting documentation, I M a nexus 6 user since yesterday and I noticed this problem since I first tested audio with a song in YouTube , expecting for great udio performance, but let down in the end... Wish there would be some way to bypass this stupid limitation or bug. I'm a technician , so in some way maybe I could help a little bit to test
MWisBest said:
I'm not at all surprised to hear something like this happen. These chips are THAT weird.
One suggestion for others having issues with volume throttling (sometimes referred to as "automatic gain control" (AGC)): try to force a recalibration of the speaker impedance detection.
To do this, just run the following commands (as root):
Code:
echo 1 > /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/tfa9890/8-0034/force_calib
echo 1 > /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/tfa9890/8-0035/force_calib
And then reboot.
If the calibration is off for some reason, it can screw up the calculations for AGC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This incredibly improved my nexus 6 audio of at least 50℅ , I couldn't go over half volume that AGC started to cut volume to a stupid low point. Now I can stay at max with no problem
Kinda related. If you build from AOSP right now, it seems that the AGC is extremely strong. Hit about 25% volume and it never gets any louder past that. Same with speakerphone on calls. Been tearing my hair out trying to figure this out since the OTA works fine and other ROMs on 7.1.1 work fine too.
GrayBoltWolf said:
Kinda related. If you build from AOSP right now, it seems that the AGC is extremely strong. Hit about 25% volume and it never gets any louder past that. Same with speakerphone on calls. Been tearing my hair out trying to figure this out since the OTA works fine and other ROMs on 7.1.1 work fine too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
agree..
i wish there is some solutions for this problem..