Hello,
I would like to replace the Omate TrueSmart camera module with a higher quality lens an/or one with higher resolution.
My application does not require the device to be worn on the wrist or even on a human. If there is no way to utilized a better camera module (again fit and form are of no concern, as I will be designing my own packaging), then at a very minimum I would like to move the camera module approximately 6 inches away from the screen (i.e. I think I just need a ribbon cable with the correct connectors).
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thx
I've been wondering this myself - could you just buy the correct camera module connector, and add the drivers?
chainsol said:
I've been wondering this myself - could you just buy the correct camera module connector, and add the drivers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The drivers are the major problem here, you will have to find something that is working in a similar device to get it working, you cannot compile the driver yourself.
gerhardo said:
The drivers are the major problem here, you will have to find something that is working in a similar device to get it working, you cannot compile the driver yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For instance, the camera module from the second version of the ZGPAX S8, which is a true 3mp module, with drivers available?
There's nothing wrong with the camera module. It's all soft side, in fact the module is a newer version of what was in the iPhone 3.
Lokifish Marz said:
There's nothing wrong with the camera module. It's all soft side, in fact the module is a newer version of what was in the iPhone 3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know a source for buying components to relocate the camera module (i.e. ribbon and connectors)? I need the camera to be located about 6 inches away from the board.
airfix4 said:
Do you know a source for buying components to relocate the camera module (i.e. ribbon and connectors)? I need the camera to be located about 6 inches away from the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Connectors can probably be sourced from a site like Alibaba or Aliexpress. Might require a bit of wading through pages of close but not it connectors.
Another alternative is it pull one from another device that uses the same connector. A bulk lot sale of dead phones should get you the right connector.
The cable is hard, that's usually a custom job. There is a way you can make your own. This is similar to the original cable but it limits you to ideally placing the PCB and the module in the same enclosure.
Another option is to use an old IDE cable, and fine solder the cable to the PCB and module. Then just hot glue after to minimize stress on the connection points. This allows you to have the PCB in one enclosure and the module in another, like so;
[PCB+Cable]-------[Cable+Module]
If this is a project you don't want made public, PM me with a layout and usage case and I'll see if I can offer a more specific solution.
Related
So, I want something to replace my TV box/free view and watch youtube
sub 90£(140 dollars)
does not matter the interface
can handle 1080p without problems
usb otg,
size does not matter
does not need a cotroller, i have some wiimote layng around...
at least ics 4.0
1 gb of ram would be nice but not a must
at least a dual core or very powerfull single core and gpu to handle the os wit no lag and play some phisics games like apparatus and bad piggies
Is there something running jb yet? Or that at least has a recovery so it would be possible run a custom ROM? That I could port a ROM for ( I dev apps but never a ROM) whatever that's not very important
Any ideas?
check out the mk802's i have a couple mk802 II's and theyre very fun to play with. theres an mk802 III being released shortly as well.
Odroid-X seems to be all you need (take a look to the PandaBoard too, more expensive and less powerful, but it's a more complete choice).
RoberGalarga said:
Odroid-X seems to be all you need (take a look to the PandaBoard too, more expensive and less powerful, but it's a more complete choice).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
those odroid and pandaboard products are pretty awesome for development and testing, but if youre looking for something under 75 bucks that will do everything. includes wifi, and hooks right up to your tv. i would go with any of the mk802's. just a bit larger than a usb flash drive, and does everything you would expect a newer android phone or tablet to do.
haxin said:
check out the mk802's i have a couple mk802 II's and theyre very fun to play with. theres an mk802 III being released shortly as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, i would preffer go with the mk808, has already jb, and now you pointed out the mk802 III, and you can already buy it here now im deciding between those 2, seems the same product to me...
haxin said:
those odroid and pandaboard products are pretty awesome for development and testing, but if youre looking for something under 75 bucks that will do everything. includes wifi, and hooks right up to your tv. i would go with any of the mk802's. just a bit larger than a usb flash drive, and does everything you would expect a newer android phone or tablet to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
360porcento said:
Yeah, i would preffer go with the mk808, has already jb, and now you pointed out the mk802 III, and you can already buy it here now im deciding between those 2, seems the same product to me...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow... the MK802 III looks pretty awesome, dual core for $66 (and free shipping to MX :highfive
I'm thinking about purchase a RaspberryPI, but this is a better choice to convert my LCD to a smart TV
one bit of warning, when you first get one of your mk802's youre going to be very surprised how terrible the wifi signal is. the reason for this is that they cram the wireless dipole antenna inside the little plastic case right up next to the wireless chip, and other internal connections (that dont have any rf shielding). theres a couple things you can do to solve this. #1 drill a small hole in the case and let the wireless antenna through. #2 take it out of the case completely. #3 you can de-solder the stock antenna and solder on a pigtail of your choice. I soldered an rp-sma female right o the wireless chip and mounted it through a hole i drilled on the case so that i could attach any type of antenna i like.
Any chance of a tutorial?
Hello,
I think what you did with the antenna is sheer genius! Based on what I've been reading on various forums across the net, your solution is the only sure fire cure for the wifi ills of the MK808.
Due to the delicate and potentially disastrous nature of the procedures you alluded to, do you know where to find the information needed by a layman such as myself, to be guided step by illustrated step in how to perform, say option #3 you mentioned, (de-solder the stock antenna and solder on a pigtail of your choice)?
Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated by myself, and I dare to speculate, many more people looking for the same solution.
Thank you.
Paul
haxin said:
one bit of warning, when you first get one of your mk802's youre going to be very surprised how terrible the wifi signal is. the reason for this is that they cram the wireless dipole antenna inside the little plastic case right up next to the wireless chip, and other internal connections (that dont have any rf shielding). theres a couple things you can do to solve this. #1 drill a small hole in the case and let the wireless antenna through. #2 take it out of the case completely. #3 you can de-solder the stock antenna and solder on a pigtail of your choice. I soldered an rp-sma female right o the wireless chip and mounted it through a hole i drilled on the case so that i could attach any type of antenna i like.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MK808 with working wifi
haxin said:
one bit of warning, when you first get one of your mk802's youre going to be very surprised how terrible the wifi signal is. the reason for this is that they cram the wireless dipole antenna inside the little plastic case right up next to the wireless chip, and other internal connections (that dont have any rf shielding). theres a couple things you can do to solve this. #1 drill a small hole in the case and let the wireless antenna through. #2 take it out of the case completely. #3 you can de-solder the stock antenna and solder on a pigtail of your choice. I soldered an rp-sma female right o the wireless chip and mounted it through a hole i drilled on the case so that i could attach any type of antenna i like.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an MK808 that originally had extreme problems keeping a steady connection to wifi. I tried installing Finless 1.5a ROM to no success, however, after installing Finless 1.6 ROM, everything works perfectly. I didn't have to make any changes to the antenna and I now have a strong, steady wifi connection that enables me to play internet videos, Android games, music, whatever.
mk808 remote control app
Hi, does any body know an app that I can use to control my mk808 from my SGS2? the one that they have on play store is for mk802iii and it's not working with mk808 . Thanks
I ordered nook simple touch screen replacement ED060SCE and the seller send me an kindle 3 lcd ED060SC7 - is it possible to replace one with another ?
send it back to ur seller ..... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... simply send it back and order the right one ,,,, but where u from??? and how much that screen cost u .... i suggest u buy an new refurbished NST about 60$ or less from ebay ... if u find out screen cost u much
please elaborate
speedman2202 said:
send it back to ur seller ..... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... simply send it back and order the right one ,,,, but where u from??? and how much that screen cost u .... i suggest u buy an new refurbished NST about 60$ or less from ebay ... if u find out screen cost u much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello speedman and OP.
Speedman, can you please elaborate on your answer.
I am refering to this part of your answer ".... it have a total deference between screen at least hardware one .... ".
The reason I am asking is that I had epiphany two days ago that didn't end well, but the journey was rewarding.
I was thinking, ok Kindle 3 (keyboard) has a better screen that nook ST (contrast). I really like my rooted nook. Both things are made in China, by same manufacturer.
I will make an uber device and fit a kindle 3 screen on nook. (I am not a technical person, but i do love my rooted nook, may he rest in peace).
I was really close, and was able to connect kindle screen to nook simple touch battery and motherboard. And it worked, it showed nook screen on my half opened kindle keyboard. Unfortunately, I got overzealous in attempt of removing screen from nook simple touch (bloody silicone), and screen broke. At this point all my confidence was gone. I reassembled kindle 3 fast, so at least i have one device safe.
So, my question is, if i actually try to do this again (30 gbp for nook st these days), will i have touch capabilities, that is: where is the bloody infrared, on the eink screen? haven't seen anything special there....
I was so happy when I sow OP question.....and than cold shower......
The infrared touch module is attached to the bezel of the Nook, has no connection to the e-ink screen. I think that the panels are identical as far as specs, not sure about the connections though. Any difference in contrast has to do with the software, not the panel itself.
OB
Sent from my Evo V 4G using Tapatalk 2
dkuku said:
I ordered nook simple touch screen replacement ED060SCE and the seller send me an kindle 3 lcd ED060SC7 - is it possible to replace one with another ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont do it - I have also ordered ED060SCE and the seller send me ED060SC7 - I put it in the device and it didn't work. I ordered later a second one and I figured out that my mainboard wasn't working after instering the kindle lcd - I ordered a second nook with broken lcd and in this unit the new lcd worked like charm
dkuku said:
I figured out that my mainboard wasn't working after instering the kindle lcd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you have a broken NST motherboard?
Could you do me a favor? I need good pictures of its both sides, but with the hardware button springs removed (these are the four white long shapes on the edges of the board, each with two dark dots - visible here: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ffHPkaSDPfAGTYQD.large).
I would like to make a cable extension for the hardware buttons (connected via a DIY magnetic plug), so I need to trace parts of the board. I am a little reluctant to remove the springs on my working Nook and some of the paths are under them. TIA
trurlo said:
You mean you have a broken NST motherboard?
Could you do me a favor? I need good pictures of its both sides, but with the hardware button springs removed (these are the four white long shapes on the edges of the board, each with two dark dots - visible here: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ffHPkaSDPfAGTYQD.large).
I would like to make a cable extension for the hardware buttons (connected via a DIY magnetic plug), so I need to trace parts of the board. I am a little reluctant to remove the springs on my working Nook and some of the paths are under them. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look on the other side - under every button is a exposed point of copper - I think the the switch when pressed connects it to GND
dkuku said:
look on the other side - under every button is a exposed point of copper - I think the the switch when pressed connects it to GND
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You probably mean the via - yes there is one or two under each button. I might try to use them as soldering point, but a better way would be to find a path to one of measuring fields (the larger round fields on the board).
trurlo said:
You probably mean the via - yes there is one or two under each button. I might try to use them as soldering point, but a better way would be to find a path to one of measuring fields (the larger round fields on the board).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at the last picture - I removed one switch - it goes only to the other side NST pictures
dkuku said:
look at the last picture - I removed one switch - it goes only to the other side NST pictures
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! On the photo it looks like the outer ring is indeed connected to the GND paths at the edge of the PCB (if they are GND, which I will check). Can you confirm it?
trurlo said:
Thanks! On the photo it looks like the outer ring is indeed connected to the GND paths at the edge of the PCB (if they are GND, which I will check). Can you confirm it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as I look close then I see they aren't connected to GND - I put two more photos with all switches removed - hope this helps you
dkuku said:
I put two more photos with all switches removed - hope this helps you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, that helps a lot - while they might not be connected to GND, they seem to be organized in a simple 2x2 matrix - I can see a path connecting two outer rings in the upper part of the PCB - that would mean I can extend these 2 buttons easily with a 3-pin connector. That would be enough.
I will let you know if it works out.
The question of keyboard stuff is continued here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2434722
trurlo said:
I will let you know if it works out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the result. Thanks for your help. And thanks to Renate for confirmation of the pinouts.
I think maybe put a screen Kindle 3 in Nook. Datasheet are almost identical. Waveform is in firmware 1.2.1 for display...
I can confirm the e-ink screen for Kindle Keyboard can be put into Nook Simple Touch, working beautifully. Just be careful when taking NST apart, because the e-ink screen is VERY tightly glued to the back panel, using some kind of strong double sided tape. I ended up cracking it...
Hi all,
I've come across many post here asking the possibility of upgrading the eMMC that always answered that's it's not possible due to many pin underneath the BGA.
After several research I've come across a couple of YouTube video that show that it is possible to CHANGE the eMMC because it's not soldered to board, BUT GLUED.
Here is the video:
youtube.com/watch?v=F_Z1CKU0fpk
youtube.com/watch?v=dHPoWDQJdZg
It only took about 10 minute for these dude to change the eMMC.
I hope by sharing this information, I could make those who were have the ability to do this become creative and perhaps try to change the eMMC with 64GB or perhaps 128GB.
MyShai said:
Hi all,
I've come across many post here asking the possibility of upgrading the eMMC that always answered that's it's not possible due to many pin underneath the BGA.
After several research I've come across a couple of YouTube video that show that it is possible to CHANGE the eMMC because it's not soldered to board, BUT GLUED.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glue would not be conductive.. You are confused. Besides, replacing a BGA with a hot gun is pretty difficult work, easy to screw up and knock stuff off, pull a pad, or when replacing cause a short somewhere.
Just..... no
khaytsus said:
Glue would not be conductive.. You are confused. Besides, replacing a BGA with a hot gun is pretty difficult work, easy to screw up and knock stuff off, pull a pad, or when replacing cause a short somewhere.
Just..... no
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why NOT?
1. It's been done by many as witness in youtube video I post (did you watch?)
2. Their not glueing the BGA PIN to the board. They glueing the SIDE OF THE eMMC to the board.
3. The Manufacture / Samsung (in this youtube video is SGS3 & SGN2) were GLUEING the eMMC to the board (too).
4. Perhaps you're not as skilful in hardware as the person in those youtube video.
MyShai said:
Why NOT?
1. It's been done by many as witness in youtube video I post (did you watch?)
2. Their not glueing the BGA PIN to the board. They glueing the SIDE OF THE eMMC to the board.
3. The Manufacture / Samsung (in this youtube video is SGS3 & SGN2) were GLUEING the eMMC to the board (too).
4. Perhaps you're not as skilful in hardware as the person in those youtube video.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the chip is also glued I don't know/care. The heat is for the solder, plain and simple.
Glue is just used to keep the parts in place during reflow soldering...
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 4 mit Tapatalk
skin57 said:
Glue is just used to keep the parts in place during reflow soldering...
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 4 mit Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is correct. When we create a board we assemble components to be held in place by glue than reflow the board. No manufacturer would ever use glue to hold a vital component to a board...
runningwarrior08 said:
No manufacturer would ever use glue to hold a vital component to a board...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not entirely true since Nokia used a glue to keep the LCD flex in place in some cheaper models (100, 113, 1616, C1-01). These were not soldered at all, there is no connector on the board, just pads and display is just glued to these. HTC also used to glue power button flex directly to the PCB back in the days (Wildfire S).
If it comes to eMMC however, they're always soldered directly to the board and then glued to keep in place, resist water (partially since the glue is often on one side only) and make it harder to remove. It's possible to replace it, but it's not that easy as in the video, especially if you never done it before. Also, such operation requires you to backup current eMMC content (not really an issue with root) and then write dump onto the new chip to keep your device booting and working properly. The ones on the video are pre-programmed.
KrzychuG said:
Not entirely true since Nokia used a glue to keep the LCD flex in place in some cheaper models (100, 113, 1616, C1-01). These were not soldered at all, there is no connector on the board, just pads and display is just glued to these. HTC also used to glue power button flex directly to the PCB back in the days (Wildfire S).
If it comes to eMMC however, they're always soldered directly to the board and then glued to keep in place, resist water (partially since the glue is often on one side only) and make it harder to remove. It's possible to replace it, but it's not that easy as in the video, especially if you never done it before. Also, such operation requires you to backup current eMMC content (not really an issue with root) and then write dump onto the new chip to keep your device booting and working properly. The ones on the video are pre-programmed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Flat-Flex-Cables can be glue-mounted (without an connector), however: The flat-flex-to-board-CONNECTION itself is made using a technique called "Hot bar connection" (where, as the name implies, the connection is soldered to the board using a hot bar). So, glue provides only mechanical strenght - but not he electrical connection.
Hello unfortunately I broke my the touchscreen (pressed against a desk while the phone was in my pocket and there it goes...)
I'm about to order a replacement LCD + touchscreen. While dissambly today I've noticed that the camera looks very simmilar in terms of dimensions and connectors to the ones found on the original Xperia Z/Z1 . Which got me wondering whether it would be possible to transplant a 20mpx camera module into the ultra
According to all mighty wikipedia https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exmor and google, the Ultra has an IMX134 (4,2mm height), The Z is a IMX135 (5,5 mm height) and Z1 is IMX220 (5,8 mm) ...
So if theoretically I manage to stuff the module inside, can I upgrade the camera? Anyone with more Experience of the Sony ROMs, would I need to do a lot of tweaking on the backend? Looking at the guide http://developer.sonymobile.com/kno...ld-aosp-lollipop-for-unlocked-xperia-devices/ and https://github.com/sonyxperiadev/device-sony-togari , there doesn't seem to be much going on in terms of device configuration for the camera....
Ofc, specifications have to be checked and probably it would require some hacking around the camera apk/rom/kernel to get in running, but just from the top of your mind, do you think it's possible? Or if someone has attempted something simillar before? Anyone with more Experience of the Sony ROMs, would I need to do a lot of tweaking on the backend?
Thanks in advance!
Edit:
Last night I couldn't find it, but today I found a similar question, however no steps were taken.... http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2585918
Replace t4k37 to imx214: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=67865839&postcount=5
Thank you remittor, I'll look into it.
I've decided to attempt the mod Today the new module has arrived and I'm waiting for the new LCD/Touchscreen assembly to arrive (which hopefully I won't short like last time >_<).
I went greedy and opted for the IMX220 from a Z1 instead of the IMX135 of Z. The module is way bigger that the original (of course).
Some preliminary observations:
1. The IMX220 connector PCB is wider, although the connector itself looks the same. It seems that it will fit, If I unglue the motherboard from the frame to connect it
2. It's tight, but the IMX220 fits through the PCB hole physically - maybe leftover from originally using a bigger camera module or just luck
3. The NFC plastic/plate will definetly need to be cutted, since the frame/skeleton is shaped precisely for the IMX134
4. The back cover won't fit (naturally). The options are again sawing part of it with the camera module potruding and gluing something on top or 3D printing a back cover with a Samsung style bulge for the module. (I know, I know this would kill a huge part of the aestetics of the phone as well as maybe a bit of the pocket comfort).
apocalypse_bg said:
Thank you remittor, I'll look into it.
I've decided to attempt the mod Today the new module has arrived and I'm waiting for the new LCD/Touchscreen assembly to arrive (which hopefully I won't short like last time >_<).
I went greedy and opted for the IMX220 from a Z1 instead of the IMX135 of Z. The module is way bigger that the original (of course).
Some preliminary observations:
1. The IMX220 connector PCB is wider, although the connector itself looks the same. It seems that it will fit, If I unglue the motherboard from the frame to connect it
2. It's tight, but the IMX220 fits through the PCB hole physically - maybe leftover from originally using a bigger camera module or just luck
3. The NFC plastic/plate will definetly need to be cutted, since the frame/skeleton is shaped precisely for the IMX134
4. The back cover won't fit (naturally). The options are again sawing part of it with the camera module potruding and gluing something on top or 3D printing a back cover with a Samsung style bulge for the module. (I know, I know this would kill a huge part of the aestetics of the phone as well as maybe a bit of the pocket comfort).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey man, have you succeeded with that modification? I get the same case right now! I wonder if it is possible for Xperia z to recognize the imx220? Cuz it fits tight, but camera doesnt work and i dunno the next steps, first link is too old and doesnt work anymore.
This phone has been almost perfect for me besides the selfie camera. Yes I have installed gcam, and using it gets good results (besides slow snap speed). The issues is other apps that use the camera preview without processing like Snapchat, Instagram, as well as video chats.
Can you install the G4 8mp (~$6) front facing camera into the V30? It has a very similar size and attachment. Would this improve the preview issue or is it software? Would the phone even recognize the different sensor?
Has anyone done this before? I have heard different things, but trust XDA more.
Clintrojan said:
Can you install the G4 8mp (~$6) front facing camera into the V30? It has a very similar size and attachment. Would this improve the preview issue or is it software? Would the phone even recognize the different sensor?
Has anyone done this before? I have heard different things, but trust XDA more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Keeping in mind I'm not a dev. I don't even have this particular phone yet.
Similar connector isn't enough; it'll have to be the same pinout, same voltage, same signaling...
This wouldn't be so much an issue if manufacturers published mainboard schematics so these things could easily be compared, but alas, manufacturers are determined to 1: make you buy a new phone instead of attempting repairs or modification to your own, and 2: protect imaginary competitive edges they have over each other. Or something. I don't even know.
So it falls to plugging a module in and seeing if it works. Most folks probably don't want to risk wrecking their expensive mainboard by plugging in something with potentially the wrong pinout, so...
Software likely isn't a problem, but I would imagine that a custom ROM would be needed to build in the correct camera driver.
You might have better luck grabbing the camera module from a V35, since it's (probably) largely the same phone internally. It's 8mp as well, and a more modern piece.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable responds, since I'm far from an authority on this and curious as well.
Septfox said:
Keeping in mind I'm not a dev. I don't even have this particular phone yet.
Similar connector isn't enough; it'll have to be the same pinout, same voltage, same signaling...
This wouldn't be so much an issue if manufacturers published mainboard schematics so these things could easily be compared, but alas, manufacturers are determined to 1: make you buy a new phone instead of attempting repairs or modification to your own, and 2: protect imaginary competitive edges they have over each other. Or something. I don't even know.
So it falls to plugging a module in and seeing if it works. Most folks probably don't want to risk wrecking their expensive mainboard by plugging in something with potentially the wrong pinout, so...
Software likely isn't a problem, but I would imagine that a custom ROM would be needed to build in the correct camera driver.
You might have better luck grabbing the camera module from a V35, since it's (probably) largely the same phone internally. It's 8mp as well, and a more modern piece.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable responds, since I'm far from an authority on this and curious as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. It looks like the V35 camera has a different connector wire. I'd assume that would be an issue in fitting into the V30.
Would require physically modding the phone as the cameras are different sizes and the lens is in a different place