Hi there,
While playing with the different video resolution settings I noticed a weird video issue.
I recorded two videos in 1920x1080, one with 30, the other with 60 fps. No Settings were
changed exept the fps.
My assumption was that *should* give the exactly same field of view between 30 and 60 fps
as seen on any other video recording device that I own (DSRL, another smartphone).
To my surprise I noticed not only the 60fps video has a greater field of view but also has a
disgusting video quality compared to the 30fps one, and even compared to the 1280x720 which looks
better than the [email protected]
Is there any logical explanation to that?
ffmpeg gives me the following video parameters:
LG_V30_1920x1080-30.mp4:
Video: h264 (High) (avc1 / 0x31637661), yuv420p(tv, bt709), 1920x1080, 16963 kb/s, SAR 1:1 DAR 16:9, 29.99 fps, 30 tbr, 90k tbn, 180k tbc
LG_V30_1920x1080-60.mp4
Video: h264 (High) (avc1 / 0x31637661), yuv420p(tv, bt709), 1920x1080, 24031 kb/s, SAR 1:1 DAR 16:9, 60.02 fps, 60 tbr, 90k tbn, 180k tbc
So they look quite identical except of cause, the fps. Astonishing the bitrate of the 60fps is 7000kb/s higher than the 30fps video. From the bad quality of the 60fps video my implication was they lowered the bitrate to compensate for the 60fps but data shows this is wrong...
Here is a side by side crop comparision of both videos:
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And here you have side by side full frames of the videos, both 1920x1080, but with different FOV.
The only idea I got why this is so was they record the [email protected] with some kind of binning, using only a part
of the chip area to be able to get the 60fps, that would explain the wider FOV, then they upscale or interpolate the video up to 1920, that would explain the disgusting quality...
I really would like to read your ideas to that matter
If you want to watch the video files here are both:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Blqf6Yurcm59y32cWS6J2tjYcDpJNAn1/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QInMAbW3ta-Y6FpcxELtyrfU4IcqYe7M/view?usp=sharing
Yeah noticed this issue for a long time and nobody talks about it. This phone actually got the worse 1080p 60fps footage in the premium phone market. But you can try adjusting the exposure to 1/60 or 1/100 in 30fps in dim light environment, you will notice the quality is disgusting and full of noise. I am guessing the small sensor cant handle the 60fps quality and LG decided to use upscale and heavy noise reduction making the 60fps footage like a butter. And I am sure they wont fix it. So far 60fps only have good quality footage shooting in like 1 meter area. What a shame for the so-called "V" series.
Related
Why? Is it technical thing?
Because thi is the ratio of the sensor, other format involves cropping that reduces total mpix of the output.
Ciao!
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This is from the 808 but it gives you an idea. The sensor has a fixed shape, so the wider you go the more pixels you have to ignore.
Professorial cameras shoot in 4:3
Deblow said:
Professorial cameras shoot in 4:3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So..
We are the professional
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
Deblow said:
Professorial cameras shoot in 4:3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The last time I check "professional cameras" are all 3:2, no?
If you take a picture in 9mp 16:9 and then change it to 12mp 4:3 and take a pic of the same thing, you'll see that you get more of the top and bottom in the image compared to 9mp. It's just cropping 3mp from the top and bottom of the 4:3 pic to get the 16:9 ratio.
It's just a popular ratio + the camera image fills our screen when set to 16:9 so it looks nicer.
Normally the sensor is 4:3, they just made it like this from the big die... some times, they cut it in other aspects like 3:2 or something it's all about manufacturing and getting the best cost...
here's a regular sensor, which is just 4:3
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/DMCGH1/ZSENSOR-LG.JPG
so imagine this sensor is 12MP, you will have an image that take the whole sensor, if you need a 16:9 image you will have three options:-
1- Stretch : ouch, should not be an option at all !!
2- Expand Horizontally : Impossible, because with 12MP you already use the full width and height, there's now where to Expand any where..
3- Crop vertically : It's the only option, by cropping from both top and bottom till the aspect ratio is 16:9 you will have the image you want.. but you will loose pixels ( Megapixels ) and incase of a 12MP you will have several MP cuts.. some camera might give you 9MP and some might give you 8MP...
same goes for Xperia arc, which has 8MP sensor, if you want 16:9 picture, the software will cut 1MP bar from top and another 1MP bar from bottom.. you will have a 6MP image by then...
some cameras are native 16:9 but these are rare, I only saw some in Pro camcorder, and with these the role will be inverted, you have a 16:9 sensor, so to get a 4:3 image you will need to crop two vertical bars from left and right so when capturing a 4:3 image with a 16:9 sensor you will also loose MP.. just like capturing 16:9 images with 4:3 sensors...
Thanks to the guys answering this thread. I've found this really interesting, never really thought about it before
Yeah, we all are now
And yes 3:2 lol
In fact IMO the 12MP 4:3 photos are more useful generally.
(That ratio also works better than 16:9 on Facebook, and since most of our photos would end up in there anyway, why not choose this? )
16:9 is too long and sometimes would look really strange, especially if you also do photography with a normal camera.
It all depends on what your subject is and what you use to view the pictures. I prefer 16:9 when viewing the on the TV at it fills all the area, and 4:3 at other times. I was annoyed when I bought a Fuji bridge camera that had 14MP, only on 16:9 too! By the time I got XS, I came to expect this
I got to try out the stock camera on my DNA today.
The pics do it justice in high light situations. But noticing that they will do poorly on Zoomed and dim photos.
Here are unedited shots.
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Any tips on enhancing it even more to get the most out of the DNA camera? any mods?
In low light conditions, switch the ISO to 200 and use flash, it will take decent to nice pics that way, especially if the object or person isn't that far away... It may be a little hard to see the object/person but I think it does well..
Nice pics
Hope it helps
You might also note that the default resolution w/ a widescreen (16:9) picture is only about 6 megapixels. If you switch to the 4:3 resolution, it will use the full resolution of the sensor and give you 8 megapixel pictures.
jasoraso said:
You might also note that the default resolution w/ a widescreen (16:9) picture is only about 6 megapixels. If you switch to the 4:3 resolution, it will use the full resolution of the sensor and give you 8 megapixel pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One thing to keep in mind if you do this is that if you want to use the front camera you should switch it back to 16:9 to get the most resolution out of that one.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda app-developers app
Interesting tips didn't know that about the resolution.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using xda premium
jasoraso said:
You might also note that the default resolution w/ a widescreen (16:9) picture is only about 6 megapixels. If you switch to the 4:3 resolution, it will use the full resolution of the sensor and give you 8 megapixel pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent tip, did not know that. Thanks
jlevy73 said:
Excellent tip, did not know that. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the full blown 8M pics deff do a lot better, not to mention they're friggin huge.
Brax33 said:
Yeah, the full blown 8M pics deff do a lot better, not to mention they're friggin huge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you use dropbox, box, or bitcasa, you can automatically sync your pictures to your account. Take pic, auto upload, then delete off phone (if space is an issue.)
jasoraso said:
You might also note that the default resolution w/ a widescreen (16:9) picture is only about 6 megapixels. If you switch to the 4:3 resolution, it will use the full resolution of the sensor and give you 8 megapixel pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 8 megapixel picture will produce a larger file, but does it actually add in terms of better sharpness and richer details? I am just worried that the relatively weak sensor (it's a cell phone after all) will not be able add much more useful data beyond the 6 default megapixels, just more interpolated fluff.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
cowisland said:
The 8 megapixel picture will produce a larger file, but does it actually add in terms of better sharpness and richer details? I am just worried that the relatively weak sensor (it's a cell phone after all) will not be able add much more useful data beyond the 6 default megapixels, just more interpolated fluff.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My understanding of the way the sensor is creating widescreen (16:9) pictures, is that it is cutting the top 10% and bottom 10% of the picture off. Setting the camera to 4:3 gathers data from the full sensor. I don't think it the interpolation is changing.
Another way to think about the 16:9 picture, is if you set the camera to take a 4:3 picture, and then printed the picture, you would have a picture with a 4:3 ratio. If you then cut the top 10% (or so) and the bottom 10% (or so) of the picture off of the print, you would then have the same 16:9 picture that you would have had if you had the camera set to the default setting. It doesn't really effect the 16:9 picture, but you aren't utilizing the full surface area of the sensor.
I wanted to check the RAW capabilities of the 9T Pro main camera with the GCam. I am using Urnyx05's version 1.6 cam (not that that should change things for RAW if it is a true implementation). Raw file size was 23.1mb.
Today in Bangkok there is a fair amount of particles in the air and there is a noticeable line on the horizon before the blue sky starts. The image I took was not for composition but to check the dynamic range and noise. The bottom right of the scene is in mid morning shadow and I am facing basically west. Focus was set about 5.5 metres away form the camera near the rear wheel of the green Totoya in the right foreground.
Shadow noise was surprisingly better than I was expecting. I raised shadows with limited noise. But there is both colour noise and Luminance noise in the RAW image. There is a bit of chromatic aberration noticeable with zoomed in 2x in a few areas but it is mild. There is softening in the corners and this is particularly noticeable on the leaves in the top right hand corner. EDIT: It looks like my cam just seems to be softer in the top right hand corner than the top left hand corner. This is not uncommon on DSLR lenses either, but worth noting.
All in all it it was better than I expected. I have attached exported JPG (saved at a maximum 3mb size from Lightroom) and the settings for noise control and sharpening. Note these settings are based on a sample size of 1. No doubt I will change these to a more standardised preset as I manipulate more images.
I will be heading to Japan and Taiwan this week and I am still tossing up on whether to take my DSLR or just use my 9T Pro on a tripod. Either way I will be sure to use the phone cam to get a better range of images to continue reviewing the outputs of this 48mp sensor.
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Shooting in RAW is worth it for the main sensor.
Other sensors are inferior and you see their limitations in the RAW files. Wish the wide angle was of higher quality.
Hi All,
Could anyone explain to me if there is any real "proof" of the fact that Samsung Galaxy A52s 5G has Optical Image Stabilization (OIS)? I have compared it with Galaxy A32 4G phone and from the point of image stabilization settings there is no difference. Both have the "Video stabilization" option like in the attached picture so this must be a setting for EIS, not for OIS because A32 lacks OIS. In addition OIS I think also works in still picture mode.
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This confuses me a lot. Is OIS an "always on" feature that cannot be controlled? Like a hidden feature? I cannot tell the difference from the user/UI point of view when comparing A52 with A32 in this regard...
Best Regards,
ak_dev
Yes, OIS is always on. It is a mechanical feature and therefore you cannot turn it off. EIS (like with the video stabilisation) on the other hand is a software feature and so you can turn it off in software. OIS is far more powerful with still pictures than Electronic Image Stabilization.
If you look at the specs from Samsung you will notice that the camera of the A52s is listed as OIS and no one with credibility has doubted this.
OIS is mechanical and cannot be turned on or off.
The A52 uses OIS on it's main lense and can use EIS when you turn on Super Steady Mode which uses the Ultrawide lense.
Is it echoing in here….?
gerhard_wa said:
Is it echoing in here….?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh sorry
Thank you guys for confirming this.
In the meantime I have performed some side by side tests of A52s and A32 phones and I must say OIS is definitely there in A52s. I have turned off "Video stabilization" feature on both phones and took some videos. A32 videos were more shaky (I have a bit shaky hands) and the real difference could be seen when shooting a video at 10x zoom. A52s preview window was very stable, almost like there was little difference if I additionally turned on the "Video stabilization" feature. On the other hand, A32 videos were really shaky with "Video stabilization" feature off and went stable when I turned the stabilization feature on. So "Video stabilization" feature is for sure controlling only EIS.
I must add however that OIS is not strictly mechanical, but electro-mechanical method and nothing prevents this technology to be controlled from the phone if desired. Here is a nice whitepaper from STM32 on this topic:
https://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/white_paper/c9/a6/fd/e4/e6/4e/48/60/ois_white_paper.pdf/files/ois_white_paper.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.ois_white_paper.pdf
Cheers.
There is a difference between electro-mechanical and electronic. The electro part of the OIS is a way to control the moving lens parts by electromagnets and the electronic part of EIS is a way of using the CPU to retain the picture steady in memory.
I will stick to my earlier statement that OIS is mechanical and EIS is electronic. I know of only one scenario when it could be of use to disable OIS and that is astrophotography. But to be honest I really do not think anyone will use the phone for this! There is no need to implement totally useless settings.
You can tell there's OIS just by looking on the lens when the camera app is on. Wiggle the phone around slightly and slowly and you can see the middle lens slightly lagging behind the motion, sometimes even showing parts of flat ring around the lens. When you turn the camera off, the lens doesn't do that.
Also when you look to viewfinder and wiggle the phone with normal camera, it feels much smoother than with e.g. non-stabilised wide camera.
And if you just shake the phone (doesn't have to be on), you can hear slight clicking of the floating lens.
I've got some time ago this app for free and never really used and now I wanted to give a try with a JPG comparison and for my surprise it is way better than stock, in the attachment the samples.
This is the link for the app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.riseupgames.proshot2
For the Proshot picture I shot in: JPG, P, ISO 50, no noise reduction, Detail turned off, IMG+ turned off, Topaz Denoise and Sharpen.
Proshot seems to be way better than stock, its a pitty it does not support 50mpx yet.
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PROSHOT
STOCK
Wow.. look way sharper... Do you have any other comparison like outdoor? ppl?
There are many version of gcam available and not really complicated to install.
Is this better?
Hmmm, the stock image looks either out of focus or soft by motion blur... would it be possible to show other samples, also from other scenarios ? That would be great
Does Proshot support all lenses on the S23U ?
Both pictures where shoot in the same condition, I will try to do other test but the test shows detail and color rendition
citytrader said:
Both pictures where shoot in the same condition, I will try to do other test but the test shows detail and color rendition
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is that this is a painting so we have to point of reference in our mind as to how exactly it looks in real life. If you go out and take a picture of like trees and buildings, it's easier for us to compare. Though I agree that proshot does look sharp and nice! Just hard to tell if it's not too sharp compared to real life?
PhilMorin said:
The problem is that this is a painting so we have to point of reference in our mind as to how exactly it looks in real life. If you go out and take a picture of like trees and buildings, it's easier for us to compare. Though I agree that proshot does look sharp and nice! Just hard to tell if it's not too sharp compared to real life?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will do more testing because in some test I did today seems that even if I disable in camera sharpening, the app applies sharpening. Other thing I found is noise pattern this camera creates that is more difficult to Topaz to remove (somethin that not happen with Canon for example) but I will arrive to a bette conclusion when I do more test.
What about ProShop post-processing? Will be great some examples of outdoors pictures vs stock cam...
As long as the RAW issue with ProShot on the S23U is not fixed this app is virtually unusable with this device.
When shooting RAW you always the the image from the 1x module even when using 0.5x, 3x or 10x.
At least the guys at Rise Up Games are aware and looking for a way to fix the issue.
Also video stabilization is not present or working on the S23U in combination with ProShot.