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Hey I have a questoin, I dont know if anyone can find the awsner, but here it goes. The eris has a nice 5 mega pixel camera; if you take off the back of your eris case and you see next to the camera on the right side a rubber stopper. This rubber stopper I have taken off to find 2 small what look to be mounts for led lights. I dont know what they are. I was wondering if anyone knows what these two small cylindar looking things are behind the rubber stopper. My ultimate goal is to eventually take apart the eris, mount a small led light on the right side of the camera were the rubber stopper is. The point I want to make is that if i dont need to do any soldering, by adding a small wire to the power and a small switch that i plan to add on the side so i can esily push the button like the volume up or down and the light will turn on and off.
And if these two little cylindar things are led mounts then it would be alot less work. Please someone tell me what I am looking at, behind the rubber stopper on my eris
Pretty sure those are factory calibration/test ports. That's what someone once told me.
Sent from my DINC using XDA Premium
Here to save you some time I did this when we were looking for a Root solution.
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz37/Gh0stRyd3r/Eris%20Inside/
morphius2036 said:
Here to save you some time I did this when we were looking for a Root solution.
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz37/Gh0stRyd3r/Eris Inside/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool! 10 char.....
wildstang83 said:
Pretty sure those are factory calibration/test ports. That's what someone once told me.
Sent from my DINC using XDA Premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I prolly gonna have to do some minor soldering wonder if I can use the ports as the power charge?
mjgdroid said:
Ok so I prolly gonna have to do some minor soldering wonder if I can use the ports as the power charge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty excited te see this work. I don't have any led just laying around but I'm gonna test my old Eris for voltage at those points your talking about. Some questions I have though. Are you trying to make a flash for the camera or just something decorative like a light mod? What type of led are you trying to use and what is the required voltage to light them?
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
Ok I just tested those ports and there is not any voltage there. I did test a few other spots on the board and had good 4v readings on all of them. So a micro switch setup would for sure work.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
wildstang83 said:
Ok I just tested those ports and there is not any voltage there. I did test a few other spots on the board and had good 4v readings on all of them. So a micro switch setup would for sure work.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as whatever LED you use doesn't try to pull more amperage than the particular circuits you use can handle. Then those circuits would burn up and incapacitate the phone.
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
As long as whatever LED you use doesn't try to pull more amperage than the particular circuits you use can handle. Then those circuits would burn up and incapacitate the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I sort of understand that. I'm a mech not an electrician though. So is there a way to measure the max effective amp draw on the board? As far as led goes I'm thinking about the bright flash type led that's found in most flash capable phones. I understand we wouldn't be able to scale brightness like on my DINC. But to atleast push a mini toggle and have it light up would be cool.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
wildstang83 said:
I sort of understand that. I'm a mech not an electrician though. So is there a way to measure the max effective amp draw on the board? As far as led goes I'm thinking about the bright flash type led that's found in most flash capable phones. I understand we wouldn't be able to scale brightness like on my DINC. But to atleast push a mini toggle and have it light up would be cool.
[DINC]¦[2.15.00.11.19]¦[INCREDIKERNEL]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No there isn't a way, at least not realistically. It would probably be safest, and possibly easiest to just wire the toggle switch and LED directly to the contacts that touch the battery instead of taking a chance hosing the phone by 1) trying to attach wires to circuitry in the middle of the phone and 2) possibly burning out the circuitry by drawing too much amperage.
DO NOT HOLD ME RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS BLOWING UP ANYONE'S PHONE!
But I can't think of a reason that would have any problem. Straight to the source!
Or you could just duct-tape a made-for-camera battery to the back of the phone with wires sticking out.
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
No there isn't a way, at least not realistically. It would probably be safest, and possibly easiest to just wire the toggle switch and LED directly to the contacts that touch the battery instead of taking a chance hosing the phone by 1) trying to attach wires to circuitry in the middle of the phone and 2) possibly burning out the circuitry by drawing too much amperage.
DO NOT HOLD ME RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS BLOWING UP ANYONE'S PHONE!
But I can't think of a reason that would have any problem. Straight to the source!
Or you could just duct-tape a made-for-camera battery to the back of the phone with wires sticking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All this info These Are GREATE POSTS!!! I am working slowly won't see my mod done for a while, But With everything you guys have posted I am going to cut out a small 3x2 cm oval in back of eris case, then cut A small opening on right side directly across from volume up down.
1.
Each hole will have respectively, Back hole next to camera Just a led light source mod, Not worring about flash while camera takes shot, just a light mod that will always turn on
2.
A small push button on and off switch like you see on many routers, and other small electronics. I mean very small the size of the search icon or so.
With the button solderd to the battery, or another power producing source maybe even a speacial battery mod placed inside eris housing
3.Connect all led mounted next to camera in back, and power button so when I push small button on right site of phone led turns on.
I am doing this slowely so it looks professional. and you won't be able to tell the led or button were not made for the eris stock phone.
AGAIN THANKS FOR THE HELP, information and IDEAS!!!!!
Keep up the work GENTlEMEN
mjgdroid said:
All this info These Are GREATE POSTS!!! I am working slowly won't see my mod done for a while, But With everything you guys have posted I am going to cut out a small 3x2 cm oval in back of eris case, then cut A small opening on right side directly across from volume up down.
1.
Each hole will have respectively, Back hole next to camera Just a led light source mod, Not worring about flash while camera takes shot, just a light mod that will always turn on
2.
A small push button on and off switch like you see on many routers, and other small electronics. I mean very small the size of the search icon or so.
With the button solderd to the battery, or another power producing source maybe even a speacial battery mod placed inside eris housing
3.Connect all led mounted next to camera in back, and power button so when I push small button on right site of phone led turns on.
I am doing this slowely so it looks professional. and you won't be able to tell the led or button were not made for the eris stock phone.
AGAIN THANKS FOR THE HELP, information and IDEAS!!!!!
Keep up the work GENTlEMEN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would be cool to see screenshots of both your work in progress plus your finished product!
Hey mjgdroid, So I've been sitting here thinking and staring this little Eris down... Was trying to think to myself the best way to do this mod and have it look "stock". A few brain farts later and I have effectivly led my self to believe that the only realistic location for the leds to be mounted would be in the diagnostic port. I think two leds would fit there just fine. After staring at the Eris even more I was pondering where the switch would go. After being inside the Eris a couple of times before I remembered that on the inside of the Eris on the right there is the speaker and a very small cavity beside it. I think this would be the location for the mini push switch. This spot would be good because it woudnt be effected by the frame screws or the board. As far as wiring, I think the best bet would be either stripped headphone wire or ribbon wire soldered directly to the inside part of the battery terminals inside the phone case.*not the part you see when you remove the battery cover and battery.
I was also tinkering with the thought of a 3 or 5 led "strip" light mounted to the inside of the battery cover itself. Holes ported of course so the leds could be seen from the outside. Refer to the picture for an idea of what I was thinking
Sorry about my grammer and spelling. To tired to care enough to fix it
wildstang83 said:
Hey mjgdroid, So I've been sitting here thinking and staring this little Eris down... Was trying to think to myself the best way to do this mod and have it look "stock". A few brain farts later and I have effectivly led my self to believe that the only realistic location for the leds to be mounted would be in the diagnostic port. I think two leds would fit there just fine. After staring at the Eris even more I was pondering where the switch would go. After being inside the Eris a couple of times before I remembered that on the inside of the Eris on the right there is the speaker and a very small cavity beside it. I think this would be the location for the mini push switch. This spot would be good because it woudnt be effected by the frame screws or the board. As far as wiring, I think the best bet would be either stripped headphone wire or ribbon wire soldered directly to the inside part of the battery terminals inside the phone case.*not the part you see when you remove the battery cover and battery.
I was also tinkering with the thought of a 3 or 5 led "strip" light mounted to the inside of the battery cover itself. Holes ported of course so the leds could be seen from the outside. Refer to the picture for an idea of what I was thinking
Sorry about my grammer and spelling. To tired to care enough to fix it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that an Eris in your pocket or are you just landing a plane? (landing strip)
Actually, that's a great idea. Wonder how much room would be needed, if there's a pre-made strip of LEDs mounted to something thin enough to fit between the battery and the back of the case.
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
Is that an Eris in your pocket or are you just landing a plane? (landing strip)
Actually, that's a great idea. Wonder how much room would be needed, if there's a pre-made strip of LEDs mounted to something thin enough to fit between the battery and the back of the case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL, your funny. But hey, I actually had this idea because a friend of mine had a few of these led "Strips" that he was wiring into his Scion for accent lighting. They were bright enough that at night they could actually light up his engine bay. The ones he had were red so the wern't extremely bright. Before he put them in he showed them to me. The neat thing about these led strips are that they are paper thin. Well maybe as thick as a credit card. The leds were probably no more thicker than the raised letters of a credit card. So I don't think thickness would be an issue. Excpecially once each tiny hole is ported for the leds. The thing that I also remember was when he showed them to me before he put them in they were powered by a demo power pack like you would see them attached to so you could try them before you buy them. That power pack was only two aa batteries. So to power these leds off the phone battery I don't think would be an issue. Now the next issue is to find out where to get them because he got his from a swap meet.
I've posted a picture of these things. Its not the exact ones he had but this will give you a good idea what they look like.
wildstang83 said:
LOL, your funny. But hey, I actually had this idea because a friend of mine had a few of these led "Strips" that he was wiring into his Scion for accent lighting. They were bright enough that at night they could actually light up his engine bay. The ones he had were red so the wern't extremely bright. Before he put them in he showed them to me. The neat thing about these led strips are that they are paper thin. Well maybe as thick as a credit card. The leds were probably no more thicker than the raised letters of a credit card. So I don't think thickness would be an issue. Excpecially once each tiny hole is ported for the leds. The thing that I also remember was when he showed them to me before he put them in they were powered by a demo power pack like you would see them attached to so you could try them before you buy them. That power pack was only two aa batteries. So to power these leds off the phone battery I don't think would be an issue. Now the next issue is to find out where to get them because he got his from a swap meet.
I've posted a picture of these things. Its not the exact ones he had but this will give you a good idea what they look like.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's me. Funny Kevin!
Just beware, the LEDs have a voltage rating, and I don't feel like looking at the voltage of my battery right now. 9.6V sounds familiar. 12V LEDs would probably be more adviseable in that case. Check first.
Sent from my Gingerbread Eris via Tapatalk
roirraW "edor" ehT said:
That's me. Funny Kevin!
Just beware, the LEDs have a voltage rating, and I don't feel like looking at the voltage of my battery right now. 9.6V sounds familiar. 12V LEDs would probably be more adviseable in that case. Check first.
Sent from my Gingerbread Eris via Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well the battery I have in my Eris right now is the stock battery out of my DINC(I upgraded the DINC to the 2150mAh bat) and its a 3.7vdc 1300mAh battery. I'm thinking that should work.
[DINC]|[CM7]|[SLAYHER#27]
wildstang83 said:
Well the battery I have in my Eris right now is the stock battery out of my DINC(I upgraded the DINC to the 2150mAh bat) and its a 3.7vdc 1300mAh battery. I'm thinking that should work.
[DINC]|[CM7]|[SLAYHER#27]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know what I was thinking! That's good.
Sent from my Gingerbread Eris via Tapatalk
Haven't seen too many others comment about this, but I just thought I would share. After upgrading to a Seidio 1900mAh battery, my Evo 3D has been randomly shutting itself down. When I first got the Evo 3D and was inserting the battery for the first time, I noticed that there was a tiny bit of play after the battery has been placed in the phone. I looked at the contacts for the battery and saw that it *might* be possible, under certain circumstances, for the battery to not make full contact with the terminals. I only had my stock battery for a short time, so I didn't notice the phone power itself off, but that all changed after getting the seidio battery.
What I did to make the battery contact the terminals better was to cut a small strip of rubber band and place that so it stands vertically right below the SD card (it doesn't actually touch the SD card). After I did this, I placed the battery back in and it makes much better contact with the battery terminals and fits more snug, kind of like the OG EVO 4G had So far, I haven't had any random shutdowns since doing this.
i cut a strip out of a business card and put it in at the bottom of the battery(opposite of the sim card) and that has been my fix. i was gonna try and exchange it for the problem, but the dent in my metal surround shows it has been dropped.
atistang said:
i cut a strip out of a business card and put it in at the bottom of the battery(opposite of the sim card) and that has been my fix. i was gonna try and exchange it for the problem, but the dent in my metal surround shows it has been dropped.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if it's an actual defect of the phone or the battery for the phone. If they manufacture the battery about 1 - 2 mm longer in length, I think it would fix the problem completely.
no problem here
sn0b0ard said:
Haven't seen too many others comment about this, but I just thought I would share. After upgrading to a Seidio 1900mAh battery, my Evo 3D has been randomly shutting itself down. When I first got the Evo 3D and was inserting the battery for the first time, I noticed that there was a tiny bit of play after the battery has been placed in the phone. I looked at the contacts for the battery and saw that it *might* be possible, under certain circumstances, for the battery to not make full contact with the terminals. I only had my stock battery for a short time, so I didn't notice the phone power itself off, but that all changed after getting the seidio battery.
What I did to make the battery contact the terminals better was to cut a small strip of rubber band and place that so it stands vertically right below the SD card (it doesn't actually touch the SD card). After I did this, I placed the battery back in and it makes much better contact with the battery terminals and fits more snug, kind of like the OG EVO 4G had So far, I haven't had any random shutdowns since doing this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A loose battery connection can cause a lot of glitches,random reboots,slow charging,etc. The second week I had my E3D I noticed the battery was a little loose so I ended up with 2 layers of business card opposite the contacts. The way I see it, it may not help but it sure can't hurt.
Wiley_11 said:
A loose battery connection can cause a lot of glitches,random reboots,slow charging,etc. The second week I had my E3D I noticed the battery was a little loose so I ended up with 2 layers of business card opposite the contacts. The way I see it, it may not help but it sure can't hurt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't notice that... my e3d charging at very slow rate. now I gotta check my just to make sure i didn't get a defeated one.
I think some of you guys missed that he's not using the stock battery.
After a couple weeks of fixing the loose battery, I can confirm that it does work like a charm. Every week, I would get a handful of random shutdowns which required pulling battery to get the phone back on. With my simple rubber band 'mod' I have only had the phone power down once, and it seems as if I am getting much better battery life as well.
Irishman42 said:
I think some of you guys missed that he's not using the stock battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen other mention the same type of problem with the stock battery, so this might apply to stock as well.
Wiley_11 said:
A loose battery connection can cause a lot of glitches,random reboots,slow charging,etc. The second week I had my E3D I noticed the battery was a little loose so I ended up with 2 layers of business card opposite the contacts. The way I see it, it may not help but it sure can't hurt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, shouldn't hurt the Evo 3D at all. I would highly recommend switching to a rubber band if possible. It makes the battery fit perfectly without any risk of scratching the inside of the device.
I've got myself two CHICHITEC batteries and with these I have no problems.
sn0b0ard said:
Nope, shouldn't hurt the Evo 3D at all. I would highly recommend switching to a rubber band if possible. It makes the battery fit perfectly without any risk of scratching the inside of the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A loose or dirty connection is like putting a resistor in the circuit. The voltage goes down and the current goes up. So to me shimming the battery is preferable to a non removable battery and random glitches. Thanks for your concern about scratching,good point, but I could care less what the battery compartment looks like as long as I have a good connection.
I had the same issue with my aftermarket 3500 battery. I ended up cutting a small sliver of business card, placing it on the bottom and left side of the battery and then securing it to the battery itself with electrical tape. This way when I remove the battery to put my stock one back in (which is my daily battery) I don't have to worry about anything.
ccw1134 said:
I had the same issue with my aftermarket 3500 battery. I ended up cutting a small sliver of business card, placing it on the bottom and left side of the battery and then securing it to the battery itself with electrical tape. This way when I remove the battery to put my stock one back in (which is my daily battery) I don't have to worry about anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to hear about your aftermarket battery It's good that you found a 'fix' for it by making it more snug. How long have you had the 'fix' in place, and have you had any random reboots or shutdowns afterwards?
Wiley_11 said:
A loose or dirty connection is like putting a resistor in the circuit. The voltage goes down and the current goes up. So to me shimming the battery is preferable to a non removable battery and random glitches. Thanks for your concern about scratching,good point, but I could care less what the battery compartment looks like as long as I have a good connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I just happened to have a huge bag of rubber bands that I bought like 5 years ago, lol. I probably shouldn't worry about it either, but unfortunately I am OCD about my phone, among other things
holy shiz. never would have guessed it was a loose battery, however. you are correct. thank you
Thanks for you then for rubber .
i was going to change the phone to end of this proplem .
Blue Angel still is a great device (especially regarding D-Two and his Android for BA-project:good with its large sized screen.
The only thing i always missed was GPS. Of course there are car cradles with GPS, but for hiking you always needed an extra device.
Unscrewing BAs i often wondered what this empty black box on top should be good for except carrying the antenna.
Took me some time for research till i found what i was looking for: Teleprovodnik Keychain Bluetooth GPS-Receiver.
The smallest one i could find, fits exactly to the backcover of Blue Angel. (eBay, € 19,--)
So i took a BA-Antenna (pic1,left/middle), peeled it off its carrier straight to the connectors and cut off the carrier right next to them (1/left/top).
Took Teleprovodnik, cut the battery cables and added some wire to connect the battery jack in the middle of the GPS-board with two flat brass contacts fixed to BA's backcover. These contacts are positioned into the outer gaps between those of BA Mainboard (pic4).
[Red is (+), black/blue is (-)]
Now the GPS device can drain its power as soon as BA has booted. If phone is off, the GPS receiver can't drain battery capacity.
Two lucky incidents: on/off switch of GPS is right next to top of backcover, so i mounted a BA volume switch that now serves the on/off of GPS.
(Another possibility would be replacing the IR-Screen by a microswitch (does anyone here still use infrared connection?) and let the one on GPS board turned on.)
And second the LEDs for bluetooth and satellite appear to sit right behind the camera hole. (Yes, i had to dismount the camera; maybe one day i'll find some smaller device, but as i still use a 30 years old analogue Praktika, i don't really miss it.) (both pic3)
Unfortunately Teleprovodnik doesn't have data output through his USB jack, so cable connection is useless and i have to use bluetooth.
But after all it works- after some fight against bluetooth&gps-settings on my BA , i now have a fully working GPS in my blue angel- just tap on wireless/bluetooth on my homescreen, turn the switch and start navigation
One small problem had to be solved- the level of network connection.
During my mounting experiments i didn't treat the antennafoil very well, cut off some parts...
...and lost about 15% of of network level compared to a second BA on same Network.
Now that the whole system is running, i'll work on optimizing the antenna.
If you put it in the wrong place, it shields the bluetoothconnectors or GPS-signal.
Maybe i'll add some ringantenna...
edit: 10.11.: took new antenna, now folded the parts i in former version had cut off, partly for giving place to switch inwards, and: excellent!
No difference to a non-modified phone any more.
The problem had been less disturbing if you used onboardnavigation; with google maps for example
you sometimes saw where you are on the map, but not the map itself until you reached an
area with better coverage. Tested on O2, which isn't this strong around here.
With Vodafone it's running better, but i keep O2 for testing.
Still sometimes occurs, but now only in areas where i know radio coverage is poor or worse.
I'll add some more detailed pics soon.
Mounting the switch:
First drill two holes, size and place as shown in pic below.
Use a file to remove the plastic between them.
Take a volume switch for Blue Angel, cut off the outer two silver parts.
After checking if the range it serves when placed into the longhole
fits to GPS' switch glue it into the Backcover of your BA.
You need to take two small right angled pieces of plastic, placed on the right side
and in front of the two vertical ribs on both sides of switchhole
(from the now useless antenna holder, has three different sizes) to
connect the switchholder to the upper side of the backcover and a
7x2mm strip roundet at one long edge to support the switch from underneath,
parallel to the horizontal line in backcover under the switchhole
(can be seen on the pic where the red switchholder is missing).
In first version this strip was broader, so i had to cut off a piece of antenna,
which came out to be no good idea. Obviously.
Now antenna fits under the horizontal part of switchholder.
The battery contacts:
Here i've taken some pieces of brass, 2x10mm bent to a hook at one side
so after installation they come parallel to the battery contacts on motherboard.
To place them two gaps have to be filed into the backcover.
The middle of each of these two gaps has to be 2,4mm from the side of the contact hole (a).
By this the GPS contacts sit right between the two outer contacts on each side of battery connector.
(For my proper version i've taken the two battery housing ground contacts from a dead BA, see (c). )
To fix the contacts a strip of black plastic (the thin material from antenna holder,
there's not enough room for the thick one) is glued over them.
At the same time you're doing this remove plastic at point (b) so GPS' board fits in.
Inbetween i found out CMOS backup battery CR2032 cable&plug is similar to the original of GPS receiver,
so i can replace the original one by one coming in one piece.
(some pics will follow)
Awesome work!
Thanks.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Don't just say thanks- klick it! (Of course i'm nevertheless glad 'bout it...)
Project is getting better and better, antenna problem solved.
Now working on a proper version for my own everyday-use.
Because of gsm-network-coverage, double-sim should be next project.
Together with D-Two we're heading for Blue Angel 2.0 !:highfive:
...of course i'm just providing a pearl on the icicle of D-Two's cake...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BT-Mini-Key...0570828383?pt=GPS_Devices&hash=item1e66a0ba5f
Found this, in case anyone want to buy something less...russian. Just ordered one.
EDIT: Also, how's your battery life with this thing?
ares93 said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BT-Mini-Key...0570828383?pt=GPS_Devices&hash=item1e66a0ba5f
Found this, in case anyone want to buy something less...russian. Just ordered one.
EDIT: Also, how's your battery life with this thing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's quite the same device. All come from Taiwan, and mine also looked different when i ordered it.
They just change the coverprint...
Came without any description or datasheet except a sticker on the back- good luck
password as always is 0000 (if not it for shure would be 1234).
"Teleprovodnik
Bluetooth GPS Receiver
Model Keychain GPS2000
FCC ID: OUP961300101
Serial N°: xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Made in Taiwan" That's all.
(Funny: There's a company called Teleprovodnik in Bremen/Germany.)
Just found this:
General
GPS Chipset: MTK GPS
Frequency: L1,1575.42 MHZ
C/A Code: 1.023MHz chip rate
Channels: 51 CH for tracking
Antenna: Built-in patch with LNA
Datum: WGS-84
Acquisition Rate
Cold Start: 36 sec, average
Warm Start: 33 sec, average
Hot Start: 1 sec, average
Reacquisition: <1sec
Accuracy (none DGPS)
Position: Without aid: 3.0m; 2D-RMS DGPS:2.5m,2D-RMS
Velocity: Without aid: 0.1m/s; DGPS:0.05m/s
Sensitivity: -158 dBm (tracking)
Dynamic
Altitude: < 18,000m
Velocity: < 515m/sec
Acceleration: 4g
Protocol
GPS Output: NMEA-0183(V3.01) - GGA, GSA, GSV, RMC (default)
Data bit : 8, stop bit : 1 (Default)
Interface
Bluetooth? Version 1.2 compliant
Output Power: Class 2 (10 meter in free space)
Frequency: 2.4 to 2.48 GHz
Power
Battery: Li-Ion
Operation Time: 10 hrs
Power Charge: Mini USB
Environmental
Operating: -10°C to +60°C
Storage: -20°C to +60°C
Charging: 0°C to +45°C
Humidity: 5% to 90% non-condensing
Physical
Dimension: 46(W) x 32(L) x 14.7(H) mm
Weight: 22g
Others
Certification: CE / FCC / C-tick
LED: Bluetooth / GPS / Battery / charger status
Battery life i can't tell exactly, but with standard 1450mAh battery it's at least more than two hours
(which is more than twice as long as my HTC Kaiser runs on GPS);
i didn't yet make a long run test with 100% charged battery.
Tomorrow.
Of course it's also a difference, if you have your maps on SD card and don't continuously connect to internet.
And as there are batteries with up to 3600 or 4200 mAh i yet don't worry much about it.
edit: found a small manual in german and french on PDF.
NavGear KeyMate MK-51.
Download here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/1b8c2yj0802q5s8/NavGearMK51_Manual.pdf
B-44 said:
It's quite the same device. All come from Taiwan, and mine also looked different when i ordered it.
They just change the coverprint...
I'll post all Data as soon as i find again the backcover of mine.
Came without any description or datasheet except a sticker on the back- good luck
password as always is 0000 (if not it for shure would be 1234).
Battery life i can't tell exactly, but with standard 1450mAh battery it's at least more than two hours
(which is more than twice as long as my HTC Kaiser runs on GPS);
i didn't yet make a long run test with 100% charged battery.
Tomorrow.
Of course it's also a difference, if you have your maps on SD card and don't continuously connect to internet.
And as there are batteries with up to 3600 or 4200 mAh i yet don't worry much about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ta, mate. Any chance you could throw in some high res pics in the update tomorrow? Is a bit difficult to see which power pins you used.
Btw, this is one of the best mods i've seen. I stopped using my BA because my bluetooth GPS died. But this mod, combined with D-two's Android build and maybe an early series motherboard (high OC) will give new life to my BA.
ares93 said:
Ta, mate. Any chance you could throw in some high res pics in the update tomorrow? Is a bit difficult to see which power pins you used.
Btw, this is one of the best mods i've seen. I stopped using my BA because my bluetooth GPS died. But this mod, combined with D-two's Android build and maybe an early series motherboard (high OC) will give new life to my BA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you mean the pins connecting to the battery- those are just flat pieces of brass (~3mm broad), which i bent to the same shape as the pins of the Mainboard. of course they shouldn't be fixed with tape but a piece of plastic glued over them. The tape solution i only chose for the pics.
And if you look at your battery: + and - each serve two of the mainboardpins.
As we're about it- on the Photo you see (a) where flat gaps have to be filed for the battery connectors, a piece of plastic with the same gaps should be taken as counterpart to fix the connectors (i'll upload a pic as soon as i've finished my version).
at (b) the vertical plastic has to be removed where indicated to give place to the GPS' board.
There's really no space to be spent
That's crazy what you just did
I'm not using GPS, but it still is a great piece of work from you! Did you test if it doesn't interferes with the Radio? I mean, for example making a call with GPS on.
ares93 said:
maybe an early series motherboard (high OC) .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
??? i think i could learn something right now...
miki100 said:
That's crazy what you just did
I'm not using GPS, but it still is a great piece of work from you! Did you test if it doesn't interferes with the Radio? I mean, for example making a call with GPS on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good question. In first phase when i tested GPS hunchbacked, nothing special occured.
But since i've build it in - i'll do my homework and report.
(But i don't expect it, as GPS is no NFC, and the frequencies are far different enough.
You could imagine some strange interference.)
B-44 said:
??? i think i could learn something right now...
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Click to collapse
Early Blueangels overclocked better than the newer ones. I had one that ran on 600mhz (594 or something similar). My current BA, one of the last ones ever manufactured according to HTC, based on the serial number, only does 471mhz stable with the original board. Everything above that locks up the device. I bought a busted mid-series BA for cheap and transplanted the motherboard, stable at 530mhz.
EDIT: Its a hit or miss really. Its almost impossible to identify early models if they're in good nick. I look for the ugliest, most used BA when I'm parts hunting. Bigger chance of the being older. If you have a few spare boards, it might be worth checking which one clocks best and use that.
EDIT2: Might just be dodgy statistics since I only own seven of these things, but from my experience, branded devices clock better. Again, might just be accidental but still.
ares93 said:
Early Blueangels overclocked better than the newer ones. I had one that ran on 600mhz (594 or something similar). My current BA, one of the last ones ever manufactured according to HTC, based on the serial number, only does 471mhz stable with the original board. Everything above that locks up the device. I bought a busted mid-series BA for cheap and transplanted the motherboard, stable at 530mhz.
EDIT: Its a hit or miss really. Its almost impossible to identify early models if they're in good nick. I look for the ugliest, most used BA when I'm parts hunting. Bigger chance of the being older. If you have a few spare boards, it might be worth checking which one clocks best and use that.
EDIT2: Might just be dodgy statistics since I only own seven of these things, but from my experience, branded devices clock better. Again, might just be accidental but still.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know there's some overclock-function in D-Two's ROM?
Aside from this- IMEI-Number should be a good indicator. Last number is checksum, and those i think eight before it should tell you if you've got an early model...
Tested yesterday. Took a 1490mAh Battery, unchecked Display Off after XX minutes and ran Googlemaps. After 2 1/4 hours battery was down to 45% and device turned off.
I'm now rebuilding the whole installation to rediscover little steps i may have forgotten in between, as i'm working on the whole thing cince early in july with several interruptions.
And think about antenna as in the place i've got it now it may shield GPS antenna a bit.
edit:now tested with 2400mAh battery. I couldn't believe it! Amazing! After last test - but now running and running; after three hours warning/battery low/ of course dismissed... BA keeps on running with lumid display for at least 5hours44 (no joke!)minutes. Imagine now 3xxc or 4xxx mAh! Power management and age of battery seem to be really important. Will countertest with Sundreams ROM, has got superb data management, but mean keyboard.
edit2: gps fix in new area ~5 minutes, re-log in less than 2.
B-44 said:
Don't just say thanks- klick it! (Of course i'm nevertheless glad 'bout it...)
Project is getting better and better, antenna problem solved.
Now working on a proper version for my own everyday-use.
Because of gsm-network-coverage, double-sim should be next project.
Together with D-Two we're heading for Blue Angel 2.0 !:highfive:
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Click to collapse
Dual-sim adapter like this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/DUAL-SIM-Ada...94541452?pt=Handy_Zubehör&hash=item4abcc3ff8c should work.
I tested one in my xda flame. There are a lot of brands out there. Mine was a Magicsim 3G - no cut. Look for: dual sim adapter 3G on ebay. About 15 Euro used. I like the no cut version with the foil board in between, as it is more flexible to build in.
SpecTec SDG-810 2-in-1 SDIO GPS Receiver Card & Micro SD
It would be nice if this had a linux driver, wasn't $50+, and didn't stick so far out of the top. Link
notime2d8 said:
It would be nice if this had a linux driver, wasn't $50+, and didn't stick so far out of the top. Link
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Click to collapse
I've seen those devices but they are useless to us. First as you said they stick out totally uncomfortably, and second they would hinder us from using a 16GB storage card.
The ones i yet couldn't cope with are USB-sticks... maybe we could unshell them. Data connection will be the question.
muckelmaus said:
Dual-sim adapter like this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/DUAL-SIM-Ada...94541452?pt=Handy_Zubehör&hash=item4abcc3ff8c should work.
I tested one in my xda flame. There are a lot of brands out there. Mine was a Magicsim 3G - no cut. Look for: dual sim adapter 3G on ebay. About 15 Euro used. I like the no cut version with the foil board in between, as it is more flexible to build in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool you're here. As i wrote- double sim is NEXT, i know different devices, but first i'll take a look at optimizing antenna. I often don't see a difference to normal BA, but just want to get a little trick more...
I recently flashed Mysteryemotionz v4.1 kernel and about an hour through bench-marking I came back to find my phone rebooting. I assumed it overheated or bugged out during testing and didn't think much of it until it went through the LG logo 3 times.
I noticed it would not turn on at all without the USB plugged in, my first instinct was that the battery became disconnected somehow. I could get to the fast boot and download screens, but any attempt to vol down into CWM was met with failure, and a fresh LG screen over again.
Any combination of buttons that included pressing power would result in the notification LED eventually flashing, approx 10 times. Sometimes slowly for 10x then slightly faster.
It is worth noting the phone would not charge while doing this, but the battery was full prior.
I tried leaving it unplugged overnight, same problem in the morning. Tried leaving it looping all day while at work, no dice. Finally figured I would attempt to see what was with the battery itself. I suppose if you were very patient, you could wait until your battery discharged completely, thus performing a "soft" battery pull, but this will take 4+ weeks at a full charge.
As the other battery pull thread is Sprint specific, here is a refresh for AT&T's LG E970.
I HIGHLY recommend you take a look at nericus' original thread in the Sprint LG Optimus G forum as this is only supplementary.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2108154
The tools I used: {{Picture 0}}View attachment 1931288
T-6 Torx bit - Your mileage may vary, 4's and 5's may also work, start big and do not strip your screws.
P00 Phillips screwdriver to remove the battery plate / connector.
Fingernails
Sewing needle or similar
Optional:
Business Cards (the phone has a tendency to re-engage the plastic clips when removing the back, these were used as shims to place in between the case and the phone while working the other sides)
Magnet (not only to hold the screws but you can magnetize your screwdriver / bits which will help when removing and inserting)
Also, for a little preview of what to expect, user Xiutehcuhtli has made a YouTube video, this is also Sprint specific but a good visual reference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3DPxzH3l2c
One of the main differences is that your power and volume buttons will NOT fall out, so you won't need to tape them in place.
Be sure to clear them with the back cover when re-installing it.
Also, you will notice that I did not include a spudger as you most likely will not need it.
Our phone is somewhat "inside out" compared to the original article, our back plate is very shallow and our phone is the cradle compared to the Sprint version. This also means there is different risk areas, and pry methods.
{{Picture 1}}View attachment 1931289
Once you have removed the Torx screws, my initial plan of attack was through the SD Card / SIM card cover. You will notice there is a hairline slit toward the volume buttons on the bottom side of the phone, you can very easily trace this with your fingernail and pop the first tab.
Alternatively, you can spread the phone apart gently from the two surfaces revealed by opening the SD/SIM cover and then work your fingernail or a flat object gently into the gap you created.
View attachment 1931290
Patience is key, the last thing you want is to apply too much force to the back cover in any one spot, it is deceptively thin and you risk cracking the glass.
In my personal experience, once I had a few tabs good on the side I simply traced the outline of the back cover toward the top of the phone, across and back down the opposite side, saving the bottom for last. I noticed after two traces around the perimeter of the phone that the back was still very snug and in random spots, as our tabs tend to re-engage themselves much more readily than the Sprint LG.
View attachment 1931291
My solution was to place business cards under the most exposed tabs and gently work it to cover as many tabs as possible and moving along. You shouldn't need more than two, as this can cover an entire side as well as the top and bottom simultaneously, allowing you to focus on the last side. Again, patience and determination will get you there after some time.
{{Picture 4}}View attachment 1931292
I cannot stress enough to come through at the shallowest angle possible when prying the battery cover with the sewing needle or similar tool.
I have highlighted the points of attack in green, be sure to get in between the two plastic pieces, and gently pry them apart.
Do not get under the entire assembly on accident or try to remove with your finger, it will pop the bottom connector off of the motherboard at the solder points leaving you in a bad situation.
After leaving the battery disconnected for about a minute, and then holding power for a good 10 seconds, I reconnected it and attempted to power on. SUCCESS!! - You can test this with the cover off, so don't make double work for yourself by closing it first.
I hope this helps for a few AT&T LG Optimus G specifics.
Attached should be a zip with a few very large originals if you need a better view.
View attachment 1931327
v/r
Christopher Hurley
SGT, USA
a.k.a [r.]GimP (R - Dot as in Red Dot Society)
YOU SIR ARE A SAINT> i had the exact problem you detailed here with my at&t LGOG, i LGNPST flashed multiple e970 stock roms, and after pulling my hair straight from the follicle, i went out and grabbed the tools, followed your method here and it worked PERFECTLY! THANK YOU GOOD SIR.
So if I pull the battery, wait a minute or two, hold the power down for ten seconds, and then reconnect and nothing happens, and plugging it into a wall charger shows a red flash, does that mean my battery is actually literally dead?
Edit: Also I would recommend following this dude's guide for his plan of attack: http://bit.ly/10VlQWK
I snapped the little bits along the power button and volume. Not a big deal, only aesthetic.. but its something that is avoidable.
Nice. Any idea what caused the boot loop?
i was struggling with ME kernel and rom for about a month. No matter how i wipe and reflash always had reboot/kernel crash/bootloop issues. ME kernel wouldnt even work with the stock rom for me. Now i just run stock rom and kernel, not many issues so far.
swashy said:
So if I pull the battery, wait a minute or two, hold the power down for ten seconds, and then reconnect and nothing happens, and plugging it into a wall charger shows a red flash, does that mean my battery is actually literally dead?
Edit: Also I would recommend following this dude's guide for his plan of attack: http://bit.ly/10VlQWK
I snapped the little bits along the power button and volume. Not a big deal, only aesthetic.. but its something that is avoidable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would disregard 90% of that video because our back comes straight off, this video is not an AT&T Optimus G.
Especially the part where he is prying by the screen. Someone is going to take that literally and destroy their stuff lol.
Anyway. My guess for your question is that you might have ripped the connector off of the board. Check continuity of those pins in the connector and make sure they didn't come off.
Sent from my Optimus G using xda app-developers app
Hi, although I've been reading around the forums for like a year now, this is my first post.
----------Story:
Recently (about a month ago) I started to notice a dark smudge on my phone's display. Its very light and hard to see, but when I notice it (often) its very bothersome. Its like half an inch from the right, right in the middle. I googled about it for a while, and apparently it has to do with the amount of pressure applied to the glass. This was hard to believe to me, because I take care of my phone like if it was a baby.
Anyways, being bummed about it. I move on living. And just in my daily phone use, i decide to take off the battery cover for a reason I can't remember, I did this with the display on, and I noticed that while I was lifting the battery cover, the smudge area of the display started to glow in colors, like when you apply too much pressure on the glass. And this got me curious. I started pressing different parts of the phone, and noticed that the smudge area goes crazy when i press right under the capacitive buttons. And the plastic frame on said area. After this I did bought the story about the display being damaged by too much pressure. Anyways, everything changed just a few minutes ago.
I was trying to free up the most RAM possible, so, looking around on the settings, i got into developer options and accidentally got curious and messed with something that froze the phone. I decide to take out the battery, and I find myself again with the battery sorta.. Sticking out a little, like when you lift the battery to take it off but not completely. This is something I had noticed months ago, maybe last April or May. Well since it really bothered me because the battery just wouldnt go all the way in, i decide to inspect it. And note that i have done that before, the first time i tought that it was normal, the second time i tought that it was the shape of the phone. But today it hit me. Thats not normal! The battery is bigger. Like, right in the middle, the battery has a litte bump on both sides, like when you bake a cake and it grows, well, a bump just like that. But its hard to seem really hard to see. But somehow I could feel it in the hand, and I decided to put it on a flat surface and it is indeed true. The 4 corners don't touch the surface at the same time, not even pushing it down. And I remember it used to back when I bought the phone a year ago.
And that's not all, the worse part is, that I realized that the bump of the battery aligns perfectly with the smudge on the display. So it must be it!! The battery applied pressure from underneath, causing the display to touch the glass. And as i checked around the phone, turns out that the glass is slighly getting detached from the lower area (battery area).
Maybe it wasn't my fault, but I feel so guilty for not noticing earlier. I'm really worried, as I have very poor battery life, and I fear the display getting damaged even further. Oh, and also. I noticed that all the issues I saw on Google about the smudge on the display, are in the middle, half an inch from the bottom just like mine. What if its the same battery problem?
-------- question:
Is that really whats going on? And what should i do to resolve this problem?
I was really paranoic the moment I realized that the battery was messing up the display. So I rushed here looking for help. Thanks in advance.
My device is an HTC EVO 3D, (VM), Running CM 10.1 WFTN, and the battery is stock.
I Think You have to go to the Maintenance .. Since Its Not A Software Problem the phone should be taken to a technician .
I Hope They Will solve your problem there & Your Phone Would Work Again . :good:
You should replace the battery before it cause any more problems.
this kind of stuff usually happens then the batteries are overheated or overcharged multiple times. do you leave the phone charging overnight? or maybe using a cover which acts as insulation.
Fixed!
D2m_mhd said:
I Think You have to go to the Maintenance .. Since Its Not A Software Problclosed, phone should be taktheto a technician .
I Hope They Will solve your problem there & Your Phone Would Work Again . :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't worry, I found the solution. Thanks anyways! I'll keep that in mind for next time.
EM|NEM said:
You should replace the battery before it cause any more problems.
this kind of stuff usually happens then the batteries are overheated or overcharged multiple times. do you leave the phone charging overnight? or maybe using a cover which acts as insulation.
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Click to collapse
Yes. I have my charger plugged almost 24/7 because of the poor battery life, and I let it overnight all the time. And yeah the phone gets very hot when I use tethering or any graphic intensive game for a long time. (Which is often). I think I overuse this phone.
And the cover is just a Trident Perseus (siliccone).
Anyways, i will replace the battery soon, since i found that with the battery cover removed, the smudge goes away. i assume that the battery being forced in by the back cover, causes the battery to apply pressure to the display from the inside, making it touch the glass which causes the smudge. For now i will use my phone with the back cover a little open on the bottom so the battery doesnt get pressed in. While i get myself some replacement batteries. As soon as i get the battery replacement ill say how it goes. I needed the raplacement anyways. I only get up to 6 hours of battery life, and thats changing the governor to powersave. Which is obviosly not good. I guess the battery just went bad.
silicone covers a bad particularly if you have heavy usage. I would recommend you always remove the cover when you play heavy games or use tethering
thanks for letting me know. i'll remove it when necessary. or maybe ill just get a non-silicone case. hopefully all this will increase the life-span of my next battery.