Hello everybody,
As many others, I have experienced problems with GPS reception on my LG G5. Unfortunately, while trying to fit a spring to make a better contact between the motherboard and the aluminum chassis, I busted the capacitors at the far left of the motherboard.
Since I'm a new user, I cannot yet post pictures, but I'll try and give you a description:
Both are SMC capacitors, oriented perpendicularly to one another next to a screw hole at the far top left part of the motherboard.
The one closest to the screw hole seems related to LTE/4G reception and managed to resolder it, but the other one is lost.
Could someone direct me to the correct capacitor values so I can replace them? I have two motherboards that could be used as parts donors (S4 mini and LG G4), but I'd rather not make any blind substitutions based only on appearance.
Any help will be much appreciated!
As soon as I get image link privileges, I will post a much more descriptive pict.
You're sure it's a capacitor? I saw some reworking videos, going by size can work.
I think they are capacitors
totalnoob34 said:
You're sure it's a capacitor? I saw some reworking videos, going by size can work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For what I've seen, black SMC components tend to be resistors, while beige ones tend to be capacitors.
The picts available online are not of sufficient resolution to tell if both components have the same value.
Here's an idea! Could you or someone else upload a more detailed pict on this thread? That way I can be more certain and make a better educated guess.
TIA.
Is it the two caps that sit side-by-side which are connected to the contact pad for the bottom module?
kopter36 said:
Is it the two caps that sit side-by-side which are connected to the contact pad for the bottom module?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to make a description as accurate as possible:
Place the phone screen down. After removing the aluminium back cover, you'll see an inverted-L shaped motherboard. The screen connector should be at your left, and the battery connector to your right.
If you keep moving up, there is a screw hole next to a silver spongy pad. Then, at the top you will see two capacitors at the edge of the motherboard.
Topmost is vertical, while the one below and slightly to the right is horizontal.
There are also two pairs of unused soldering contacts.
________
|######|
| U #### |
|#° # C# |
| # °#°°# |
| ##### |
/ ___ |________
| / \
| \ /
\
Apologies for my lousy ascii art. It really sucks not being able to upload a pict.
Anyway! Here, "U" and "C" represent the capacitors, while the "°" thingies represent the soldering pads.
I wouldn't just go by size. I'd get a multimeter with capacitance reading and check another board for the in-circuit capacitance (and resistance). Compare those with the capacitance and resistance across the pads to determine what values should be there...
TimSmall said:
I wouldn't just go by size. I'd get a multimeter with capacitance reading and check another board for the in-circuit capacitance (and resistance). Compare those with the capacitance and resistance across the pads to determine what values should be there...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a good idea. However, said components are lost :/
most of the time, if you physically tear components off like that, it tears the solder pads off with it...
resinis said:
most of the time, if you physically tear components off like that, it tears the solder pads off with it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fortunately, solder pads are intact. I can get a bit of SMD/ BGA welding paste to reattach components if necessary.
SysG33k said:
Fortunately, solder pads are intact. I can get a bit of SMD/ BGA welding paste to reattach components if necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well thats nice.
if you post a pic of your motherboard where the capacitor is gone, i can test the motherboard i have sitting on my desk.
resinis said:
well thats nice.
if you post a pic of your motherboard where the capacitor is gone, i can test the motherboard i have sitting on my desk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be awesome!!!
Here is the pict:
https://i.imgur.com/pREkI5e.jpg
If the forum lets me upload picts, the missing caps are marked with arrows.
I don't know if this helps, but when trying to fix the common GPS issues I broke the contact on the bottom side of the motherboard and figured out that that came from the resistor (or capacitor) marked in your image as "1", I soldered a copper wire from the top side of that resistor and made contact to the antena on the chassis and that worked great. If that was a capacitor I think it won't work.
Enviado desde mi LG-H850 mediante Tapatalk
jaggyjags said:
I don't know if this helps, but when trying to fix the common GPS issues I broke the contact on the bottom side of the motherboard and figured out that that came from the resistor (or capacitor) marked in your image as "1", I soldered a copper wire from the top side of that resistor and made contact to the antena on the chassis and that worked great. If that was a capacitor I think it won't work.
Enviado desde mi LG-H850 mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your trick sounds interesting, and I might try it but first must replace both components.
SysG33k said:
Your trick sounds interesting, and I might try it but first must replace both components.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry busy weekend. Ill try to get the values tonight
SysG33k said:
That would be awesome!!!
Here is the pict:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xigwu47gzkgsiy9/LG%20G5-caps.jpg?dl=0
If the forum lets me upload picts, the missing caps are marked with arrows.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
capacitor 1 = 135 pF
capacitor 2= 50 pF ? (i check it one way, its 47 pF, then i flip the polarity and its 62 pF)
These are in-circuit numbers. You will have to test your pads to determine if any capacitance is throwing my numbers off. Also, my test leads broke, so I had to use regular test leads that are longer, so there may be some variance there too, but it shouldnt be more than a few pF off
This is the best picture i could take with my phone (g5). both capacitors do look the same size physically, but its hard to tell. they're incredibly small, good luck. https://imgur.com/YvMjrQA
resinis said:
capacitor 1 = 135 pF
capacitor 2= 50 pF ? (i check it one way, its 47 pF, then i flip the polarity and its 62 pF)
These are in-circuit numbers. You will have to test your pads to determine if any capacitance is throwing my numbers off. Also, my test leads broke, so I had to use regular test leads that are longer, so there may be some variance there too, but it shouldnt be more than a few pF off
This is the best picture i could take with my phone (g5). both capacitors do look the same size physically, but its hard to tell. they're incredibly small, good luck. https://imgur.com/YvMjrQA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah!!! This is a great headstart! I will start looking for similar component values in the donor motherboards while still mounted. It is a bit odd you got different capacitance values depending upon polarity. They look ceramic-made, so polarity shouldn't be an issue.
Will report back ASAP with hopefully positive results.
Many many thanks!
SysG33k said:
Ah!!! This is a great headstart! I will start looking for similar component values in the donor motherboards while still mounted. It is a bit odd you got different capacitance values depending upon polarity. They look ceramic-made, so polarity shouldn't be an issue.
Will report back ASAP with hopefully positive results.
Many many thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i wouldnt think about it too much. pF is an incredibly small capacitance measurement. Im surprised my basic tenma meter even showed steady values.
I think I found the original components
Apologies for not getting back sooner. Work :/
Both are ridiculously small and appear slightly white-ish, almost translucent:
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I also managed to take a pict from the place where they are missing on the motherboard:
(Image rotated to the same angle from the pict by @resinis)
Using my original picture as a reference and if my observations are correct, component #1 is for GPS, while #2 is for LTE/UMTS/etc.
Apparently, solder pads are intact. Now I will need a microscope and micro tweezers to properly manipulate both components in place.
It's also quite a relief now being able to post pictures!
Success!!! And final thoughts
Well, after some time I can happily announce the repairs were complete and the phone is back in service.
I couldn't determine the values for each capacitor, so I had a 50/50 chance of getting them right so I went ahead and installed them.
4G reception is back to normal, while GPS is so-so-ish, but at least not erratic anymore.
Why did LG go with such a lousy arrangement for the inverted-F GPS antenna? A simple spring would have been great to make ground contact with the phone backplane.
While I like this phone in general, I am not happy at LG. After pretty bad battery experiences with the G4, and now the GPS issue with the G5, I think my next device might be a Xiaomi or something else. We shall see.
Many many thanks to everyone on here that helped me complete this quest!
SysG33k said:
Well, after some time I can happily announce the repairs were complete and the phone is back in service.
I couldn't determine the values for each capacitor, so I had a 50/50 chance of getting them right so I went ahead and installed them.
4G reception is back to normal, while GPS is so-so-ish, but at least not erratic anymore.
Why did LG go with such a lousy arrangement for the inverted-F GPS antenna? A simple spring would have been great to make ground contact with the phone backplane.
While I like this phone in general, I am not happy at LG. After pretty bad battery experiences with the G4, and now the GPS issue with the G5, I think my next device might be a Xiaomi or something else. We shall see.
Many many thanks to everyone on here that helped me complete this quest!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Congrats, mate!
Related
I’ve been struggling with why my GPS quit seeing any satellites after the 9.4.2.11 update when I realized something looking at Anand’s teardown:
AnandTech - ASUS Eee Pad Transformer Prime Teardown
Perhaps the antenna connections are weak or have become slightly corroded. Based on his teardown the contacts are spring type “pogopins” which mate with the opposite face. With that thought in mind I decided to try and flex the tablet ever so slightly to clean the contacts. The idea being that the slight flex would cause the pins to scrape the contact surface rubbing a clean(er) spot.
Before the 9.4.2.11 update I had the typical poor performance from the GPS, getting locks but losing them on the move. I had given up on it [GPS] until this update which touted GPS improvements. After updating and wiping I tested the GPS again, but could not see even one satellite after letting it sit, more than once, for over an hour with Wi-Fi on and off.
I must stress I strongly suggest you do not try this on your tablet for fear of damaging it. I take no responsibly for damage to anyone’s tablet and am only reporting my actions.
After this procedure I am able to see several birds indoors, albeit with weak SNR. This has me convinced that part of the problem is related to these contacts, and may serve to explain some of the weak Wi-Fi reports. It may also help illustrate why only some users are seeing issues, and perhaps why some of the returns are functioning better. These contacts may be more robust in some units or possibly be able to be rectified via service.
I do understand there are other factors related to both the GPS and Wi-Fi, but this appears, at least to me, to be part of the bigger picture.
Please note that the amount of flex I’m talking about is next to nothing, enough to see a change in light bleed around the display, I was afraid to go too far.
*Mods, I'm not sure why this post was deleted before, please PM me if there is a problem with this post. I did not include the link.*
Hi jhovak,
that sounds very interesting and makes me nervous thinking of manipulating a new device. You are brave!
Do you have some pictures of your action?
Thanks.
Cheers,
René.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=21489600&postcount=10
You can bypass the pogo pins by connecting a pigtail to the UF.L connector at the chip leadouts, then solder the other end to the antennae's copper pads. It should improve reception.
e.mote,
Looks like you beat me to this I never saw your post, but that's exactly my thoughts. I was able to torque it a bit to get it working again. That maye be what they are doing to get the RMAs reported to work better, "fixed".
motocamp,
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the process, but you wouldn't be able to see much, I only deformed the case/screen very slightly. The problem is you may end up popping other solder joints in the process.
jhovak said:
I’ve been struggling with why my GPS quit seeing any satellites after the 9.4.2.11 update when I realized something looking at Anand’s teardown:
AnandTech - ASUS Eee Pad Transformer Prime Teardown
Perhaps the antenna connections are weak or have become slightly corroded. Based on his teardown the contacts are spring type “pogopins” which mate with the opposite face. With that thought in mind I decided to try and flex the tablet ever so slightly to clean the contacts. The idea being that the slight flex would cause the pins to scrape the contact surface rubbing a clean(er) spot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. Makes perfect sense to me.
Everyone has the same aluminum back, so you would expect the same results across the board (barring weather and atmospheric conditions) for all Primes. There has to be another piece to the puzzle of bad GPS performance when some user's report GPS working and getting locks and other user's reports no GPS active with no satellites seen and no locks.
Thanks e.mote for your explanation of the antena contacts. I think you hit the cause of the GPS problem. Hopefully ASUS saw your post and address this prioblem so it does not occur on their the planned 700 series.
Cheers
I forwarded all this info to Gary in a pm just recently. including details, link to that thread e.mote posted in and that teardown showing pogo pins. hopefully he will get it soon and pass info to engineers.
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pardon my lack of GPS knowledge but what is considered good or bad when comparing GPS in general? This is my prime outside earlier but there were fluctuations
I am a bit more skeptical about the hardware pins as a sole cause. Reason:
I had pretty decent GPS performance until this last update which totally killed my GPS performance. This suggests to me that there is a firmware/driver type component to at least some people's problems. The same update did correct other people's problems. So perhaps there are some slight differences in the GPS chips that the firmware is not playing nice with or accounting for?
I can confirm this at least partially works. I tried to drive home using GPS test the other day from work and could hardly get a lock especially at high speeds. I saw this and did a number of squeezes aroung the area of the GPS connector and had a significant change.
Drove home with GPS test today and I hardly ever saw it not locked, even going at 70mph, though it would go between 2 and 8 locked sats or so. Halfway through the drive I opened google maps. It took 10-15 seconds to lock, but then I watched my blue arrow follow the road exactly almost the entire way home. It only lost lock when I was stopped under an overpass at a stop light.
To be clear the signal strength is not that of my phone, but at least it's working now.
Have you seen the new evidence found? It was found out that Original Transformer actually uses the soldered type connection E.mote described. I was gonna start a thread but no use as this one is perfect for the new info.
FIRST here is the quote n pics from e.mote of the current Prime type of connection
e.mote said:
From looking at the Prime teardown, your wifi loss may be due to a loose connection. Instead of running a pigtail directly from the chip lead-out to the antenna, the Prime uses spring-loaded pogo pins (1st pic) as intermediate connectors.
Second pic shows the pogo pins for the main wifi and GPS antennae. The spring-loaded pins are pressed against the copper pads of the respective antenna (3rd pic). Suffice it to say, this isn't the most secure way to connect the antennae.
Aside from possible broken or intermittent connection, it also looks like a high-loss connection, and could contribute to attenuated signal reception. My guess is that this may be the main culprit of wifi/GPS woes, with the metal shell being a contributing factor.
The 4th pic below is a U.FL connector that's normally used for antenna pigtails. The lip has an outer overhang for a secure connection.
My guess is that the tablet was bumped and something shifted a bit, breaking the antenna connection.
This is FYI only, as the unit isn't user-serviceable. It does look like a simple fix, but you'd have to open the unit. Edit: You can try smacking the top edge of the tablet a few times and see if it will jar back into place. Worth a try.
Pogo pins used as intermediate connectors for wifi & GPS antennae
The two pogo pins for main wifi and GPS. The spring-loaded heads are pressed against the antennae's pads to make the connection.
The main wifi & GPS antenna, with copper pads to connect to the pins
U.FL connector, normally used for antenna connection
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NOW here is the Original Prime teardown and type of connection
http://m.techrepublic.com/photos/cr...-transformer-tf101/6270147?seq=53#photo-frame
OG Transformer teardown pix
NOW HERE IS THE KICKER
clenz said:
that GPS/Wifi connection looks like a soldered wire and not pogo pin to me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WHO said copy n paste n select text doesn't work well on the Prime? Lol I did this all from the Prime itself from various threads.
Extremely interesting. Im definitely returning my GPS-less prime now. Smh
G-Tab 10.1 Wi-Fi antenna connection...
The Wi-Fi chip's on the reverse side of the PCB.
Wi-Fi/BT/FM radio combo chip is in the upper right.
Damn, I thought they used pogopins for just the GPS. Now I just found out they use them for the Wifi too! OUCH! Bad idea. A soldered wire would have been %100 much better, but I'm so afraid now to return my tablet to Asus from hearing the horror stories.
opentoe said:
Damn, I thought they used pogopins for just the GPS. Now I just found out they use them for the Wifi too! OUCH! Bad idea. A soldered wire would have been %100 much better, but I'm so afraid now to return my tablet to Asus from hearing the horror stories.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know right...lol ya damned if you do, damned if you don't ...
Just got PM a lil while ago from Gary n response to the thread n possible pogo pin issue. He said this is something the Engineers are looking very closely at on units being returned to be looked at or repaired. SO things are moving right along. FOUND OUT ALSO my serial number that starts with BCOKA is actually from an early batch that I guess had the older hardware. Engineer or Service person supposed to call within next 48hrs. They are going down the list of people that Gary got serial number, email, and phone number info from. I guess it must be a big list...lmao
SO if I do have to send it in, then they will be adding the new hardware it and hopefully changing those pogo pin connections to soldered ones..lol
Ill know more details once I get their phone call. If I do have to send in, I hope they don't wipe everything as I have around 150-200 apps n games. Things customized n all that. Ill take the new hardware though n hopefully won't go thru the horror stories I've been hearing about on returns. OR ill like it better if they just sent me a brand new tablet with the latest n greatest hardware changes on it then I send mines to them. So it'll give me time to transfer things to new device if need be.
I HAVE AN APP on my Ipad called applist that will list every app you have installed and allow you to email the list to yourself. Does android have anything like this?
Wow. I think we can all agree that Asus dropped the ball in so many areas with the TF201. Who the hell wants to put up with this nonsense???
If only Motorola would build a tablet with a docking clamshell keyboard they could probably take 80% of would be Transformer customers. I'd be first in line.
But what could be the reason ASUS changed to use this pogo pin?
Weight? Cost? ... Sabotage? ... I simly dont understand the engineering thought of it.
racerex said:
Wow. I think we can all agree that Asus dropped the ball in so many areas with the TF201. Who the hell wants to put up with this nonsense???
If only Motorola would build a tablet with a docking clamshell keyboard they could probably take 80% of would be Transformer customers. I'd be first in line.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would take alot more than that for Motorola to come up n take Asus customers. The xoom, first HC tablet, was a complete flop. Plus Motorola known for locking their systems down, at least initially. MOTOROLA IS NOT too popular of a brand these days, at least tablet wise.
demandarin said:
Just got PM a lil while ago from Gary n response to the thread n possible pogo pin issue. He said this is something the Engineers are looking very closely at on units being returned to be looked at or repaired. SO things are moving right along. FOUND OUT ALSO my serial number that starts with BCOKA is actually from an early batch that I guess had the older hardware. Engineer or Service person supposed to call within next 48hrs. They are going down the list of people that Gary got serial number, email, and phone number info from. I guess it must be a big list...lmao
SO if I do have to send it in, then they will be adding the new hardware it and hopefully changing those pogo pin connections to soldered ones..lol
Ill know more details once I get their phone call. If I do have to send in, I hope they don't wipe everything as I have around 150-200 apps n games. Things customized n all that. Ill take the new hardware though n hopefully won't go thru the horror stories I've been hearing about on returns. OR ill like it better if they just sent me a brand new tablet with the latest n greatest hardware changes on it then I send mines to them. So it'll give me time to transfer things to new device if need be.
I HAVE AN APP on my Ipad called applist that will list every app you have installed and allow you to email the list to yourself. Does android have anything like this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know BCOKA is from an older batch, have such a unit as well and very crappy GPS and also suffer from mediocre wifi combined with bluetooth degradation.
Also contacted Gary and will keep an eye out for any developments (live in EUrope though).
The majority of Prime users don't root or flash their tablets. Maybe the majority on this site but not the majority of the total users. So I doubt that will dictate the winners in this market.
Secondly, you can't debate that Motorola's hardware prowess is vastly superior to Asus. And definitely good enough not to pull these bone head mistakes that Asus keeps rolling out one after another.
The Xoom wasn't the sexiest by any means but it was solid as a rock functionality wise. Now with the Xyboard and their follow on products improving in the looks department I really do think they could take would-be Transformer customers if they would just offer a keyboard dock.
And if you're wondering the reason I'm not getting a Galaxy tablet, the reason is because their RF electronic know-how is not too much better that Asus's. I gotta say though that at least Samsung had the intelligence not to seal their RF electronics in a Faraday cage. LOL.
Hello! My uncle's Xperia X10 swum in orange juice for around 20minutes in his bag 2 weeks ago. Now he gave his phone to me so I can try to fix it. What I did was, a full teardown. I put the motherboard and all the other parts into a big bowl of dry rice. I put it in there 7 hours ago but I want to leave it in there for like 2 days more.
I tried to power it on ONCE. It vibrated and continusely shows Sony Ericsson in the middle of the screen (with low brightness level). That's the only thing it shows me.
I quickly shut it down to prevent further damage.
tuk1maar said:
Hello! My uncle's Xperia X10 swum in orange juice for around 20minutes in his bag 2 weeks ago.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
20 minutes eh? You could be happy, that it works somehow... I was fixing these phones after many liquids, but without immediate take from they died.
tuk1maar said:
I put the motherboard and all the other parts into a big bowl of dry rice. I put it in there 7 hours ago but I want to leave it in there for like 2 days more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bowl of rise???!!! Really weird solution, but better than nothing...
tuk1maar said:
I tried to power it on ONCE. It vibrated and continusely shows Sony Ericsson in the middle of the screen (with low brightness level). That's the only thing it shows me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, something works with it, but it doesnt load an ROM, maybe reflashing will be enough. But firtsly look very closely on motherboards BGA chips, meybe there is an shortcut on memory chip or dried juice caused somewhere little resistance where it shouldnt be.
As I do in all cases, is to buy alcohol for cleaning pcbs and use it for complete wash and clean carefully with a soft toothbrush. When finished, put board in hot place (about 80 degrees of celsius is ideal) for about an 1 hour.
After this, try reflashing - but phone will maybe start itself
tuk1maar said:
I quickly shut it down to prevent further damage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With this I agree, dont turn it on for long time, if not nessesary.
I baked the motherboard in the oven at 200 degrees Celcius for 10minutes. Then I let it cool down for 30minutes and now it does not even vibrate anymore Also shows no display. Mabey I have to wait longer?
I already reflashed the phone over 10 times. It did nothing good
tuk1maar said:
I baked the motherboard in the oven at 200 degrees Celcius for 10minutes. Then I let it cool down for 30minutes and now it does not even vibrate anymore
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG, told you that ideal is about 80 degrees of Celsius. Industrialstandart capacitors can holt up to 110 degrees and 220 degrees in point when lead-free iron on contacts of all components is melting!
If you used oven for baking, you have burnt it. When drying any PCB using hot air is the must.
Sorry, i think you have completely damaged the board.
But I let it first dry in the oven for 10 minutes with the door of the oven opened up a quarter.
I saw alot youtube video's about people doing this and most of them actually succeeded. So I thought, why not give it a try.
I will leave the phone as for it is now and leave it cool down more.
I must say that my oven has also fans in there which make the air circulate more.
OK then. As told - 200 C is really over industrial standarts. Components may be durable and could live after this, some of them not.
Let the board cool down and try again e.g. after an hour.
Have you looked on the components on the board if there is any shortcut?
HeliumX10 said:
OK then. As told - 200 C is really over industrial standarts. Components may be durable and could live after this, some of them not.
Let the board cool down and try again e.g. after an hour.
Have you looked on the components on the board if there is any shortcut?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, I sure did. It looks like brand new. I did left a big sticker with the Type s/n and such on it. That sticker did shrunk down a little bit but that is not bad I think.
After a hour, should I try to bake it again?
No, now I think that its perfectly dry. So no more baking yes?
Also have you pulled all the metal covers on back side? Have you checked ZIF connectors if there is anything inside them? Check them with magnifying glass - with your own eyes you wont see anything.
HeliumX10 said:
No, now I think that its perfectly dry. So no more baking yes?
Also have you pulled all the metal covers on back side? Have you checked ZIF connectors if there is anything inside them? Check them with magnifying glass - with your own eyes you wont see anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I pulled all the metal covers on both sides. How do I know if there is something wrong with a ZIF connector? The way I see it, it looks pretty good. No weird stuff going on there. I can see all those tiny things with my eyes perfectly sharp ( I got very good eyes) but is the thing you asked even more tiny than that?
tuk1maar said:
Yes, I pulled all the metal covers on both sides. How do I know if there is something wrong with a ZIF connector? The way I see it, it looks pretty good. No weird stuff going on there. I can see all those tiny things with my eyes perfectly sharp ( I got very good eyes) but is the thing you asked even more tiny than that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dont know if it is tine enough for you eyes, meant those things:
- scratches on pcb wires
- oxidation on/around SMD parts (caps, res, transistors)
- bent (!) or oxidated pins inside ZIFs and other connectors
- darker dots on pcb wires, around components.
- burned pins on e.g. transistors
- tiny cracks on ICs
HeliumX10 said:
Dont know if it is tine enough for you eyes, meant those things:
- scratches on pcb wires
- oxidation on/around SMD parts (caps, res, transistors)
- bent (!) or oxidated pins inside ZIFs and other connectors
- darker dots on pcb wires, around components.
- burned pins on e.g. transistors
- tiny cracks on ICs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see dots all around the pcb. All tiny dots. Many on the golden lane which is on the place where the battery goes in. There are no cracks on ICs. No burned pins. No bent or oxidated pins.
Is oxidated the same as those small dots?
Also if I am right, I can fix it by applying circuitry epoxy on it right?
tuk1maar said:
I see dots all around the pcb. All tiny dots. Many on the golden lane which is on the place where the battery goes in. There are no cracks on ICs. No burned pins. No bent or oxidated pins.
Is oxidated the same as those small dots?
Also if I am right, I can fix it by applying circuitry epoxy on it right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, look somethink like this (on left side on ICs pins):
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Oxidation is mostly thin white film wchich can be cleaned carefully with soft toothbrush.
Many dots re called TPxxx as test poin, they are always gold or copper and will shine. These are OK.
But dont apply any epoxy on it! Even when you find oxidated parts, just clean them with alcohol as described before.
Or even you could post hi-res photo or scan of your board i could look on it.
HeliumX10 said:
No, look somethink like this (on left side on ICs pins):
Oxidation is mostly thin white film wchich can be cleaned carefully with soft toothbrush.
Many dots re called TPxxx as test poin, they are always gold or copper and will shine. These are OK.
But dont apply any epoxy on it! Even when you find oxidated parts, just clean them with alcohol as described before.
Or even you could post hi-res photo or scan of your board i could look on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay I will try to scan it
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/192/x10scan.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/scanx101.jpg/
That's the best I can do If you look carefully on the 2nd picture left below and zoom in, then you can see those dots that I see.
Also the small dots that I got on the motherboard are no where near the size of those dots on that picture! Mine are puny! Very tiny.
tuk1maar said:
Okay I will try to scan it
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/192/x10scan.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/scanx101.jpg/
That's the best I can do If you look carefully on the 2nd picture left below and zoom in, then you can see those dots that I see.
Also the small dots that I got on the motherboard are no where near the size of those dots on that picture! Mine are puny! Very tiny.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm everything that I saw on this (it is not properly focused...) normal board. There are only classical testpoints (some covered with isolating color) and pins that are seen form BGA chips from other side. That is all normal. But must say that this unsharpened photo cannot show so much....
HeliumX10 said:
Hmm everything that I saw on this (it is not properly focused...) normal board. There are only classical testpoints (some covered with isolating color) and pins that are seen form BGA chips from other side. That is all normal. But must say that this unsharpened photo cannot show so much....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the sharpest I can get T_T My photo camera is rubbish. My other cellphone which had a superb camera is dead, my brothers phone's camera could not sharpen the picture enough
http://imageshack.us/f/535/scanx101.jpg/
Look at the point where I drew a black arrow. Download the picture and zoom in to it. You will see some 'puts' in the golden contact.
tuk1maar said:
That's the sharpest I can get T_T My photo camera is rubbish. My other cellphone which had a superb camera is dead, my brothers phone's camera could not sharpen the picture enough
http://imageshack.us/f/535/scanx101.jpg/
Look at the point where I drew a black arrow. Download the picture and zoom in to it. You will see some 'puts' in the golden contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See it - its the two antenna contact pins - there might be a little darker dot on contact area on gold pads - its just grazed a little - if you can see the metal around its ok. But this couldnt be problem, only if you will have problem with gsm signal.
However dont know it is just a unsharpened but interested with another contacts on you motherboard - are attached pins looking like this one? Photo is also from X10i. Speaking about them on the right ones, and check wires and oxidation around them.
HeliumX10 said:
See it - its the two antenna contact pins - there might be a little darker dot on contact area on gold pads - its just grazed a little - if you can see the metal around its ok. But this couldnt be problem, only if you will have problem with gsm signal.
However dont know it is just a unsharpened but interested with another contacts on you motherboard - are attached pins looking like this one? Photo is also from X10i. Speaking about them on the right ones, and check wires and oxidation around them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The one on the right has some dots which I also got on many places. Most of them are on those golden things. And few of them are on the PCB itself.
Look on the golden lanes! It has all small dots on them. My X10 has that aswell!
Also when I plug my X10 to the charger, if I keep my ear to the phone I hear a small pitch sound. I think it's coming from the vibrator.
If you mean that golden lanes very close around the edges of PCB its ok - they are only for grounding/shielding purposes.
In case if the vibrator is emitting pitches, it means that here might be shortcut or bad connection.
To prove this you will need a multimeter or oscilloscope.
And one thing - vibrator might be hitched by dry juice. Are you able to rotate with that little pendulum on it? It should be done very softly with fingers. Try it, NOT WITH FORCE !
HeliumX10 said:
If you mean that golden lanes very close around the edges of PCB its ok - they are only for grounding/shielding purposes.
In case if the vibrator is emitting pitches, it means that here might be shortcut or bad connection.
To prove this you will need a multimeter or oscilloscope.
And one thing - vibrator might be hitched by dry juice. Are you able to rotate with that little pendulum on it? It should be done very softly with fingers. Try it, NOT WITH FORCE !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it rotates very easily! Smooth as butter. There is a mark on my pcb which goes over one of the golden big lane and hits a tiny lane where the battery is. I think that that mark should not be there. Also I got those small dots on those small darker yellow lanes aswell. Is that bad?
Also this friday,I can get my hands on 100% alcohol so I can gently clean every bit of it. That is a good idea right?
Remember that I baked the motherboard of that X10 and that it died?
I baked today my dead Samsung Omnia 2 and it works 100% now. Previously it would not start-up, just a blank black screen. After baking it in the oven @ 200 degrees celcius for 7 minutes it works now.
Still don't know what caused that X10 to die. Sure it got wet in orange juice, so did my Omnia 2 (it swum in Lime water for 20minutes).
I did notice a scratch on the motherboard of the X10. It's located at the right top corner.
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I need a new one so I can fix my phone. Getting a new microphone/usb flex board is useless if I can't connect the internal antennae to the mainboard..
Are you talking about the tiny gray wire on the right of the photo?
That looks exactly like a laptop wifi antenna wire, but might just be
a coaxial cable, at least from the part description.
I have the service manual for the Note, and under the part description, that
wire is called: (QCB01) CBF COAXIAL CABLE-GT-I9103
The place I get some parts from is cnn.cn in Hong Kong. The board you have
the photo of is here>> http://cnn.cn/shop/samsung-i717-galaxy-note-microusbantenna-daughterboard-p-15346.html
As for the wire itself, I don't know where you would get one, other than
snagging one from a junked out laptop. You can't splice it back together,
since the impedance of the cable would be compromised, if spliced back
together like a regular wire. Coax cable carries the signal, and if it isn't
resonate & impedance matched, the "transmitter" won't work. At the
frequencies involved, being a little off, will reduce the signal to the point
of being useless.
I believe it is an i-pex connector on that coax wire. You should be able to find something if you look at some of the wireless ISP websites. The Mini-pci cards I used to use for my wireless ISP had those connectors.
Something like this should work, but you need to make sure the specs match to the cable in the phone. No idea how you would figure that out.
http://www.crossrf.com/cable-assemb...coax-w-fl-ipex-mhf3-compatible-cable-assembly
Can I order one directly from Samsung?
I have no warranty, would Samsung fix my phone if I paid them?
I don't want to have to spend $600 on a new Note..
http://www.mengtor.com/product_show.php?category=606&pid=2820
Would this cable work? I'd but this just for the cable.
c0reyl said:
Can I order one directly from Samsung?
I have no warranty, would Samsung fix my phone if I paid them?
I don't want to have to spend $600 on a new Note..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol, dare we ask why no warranty?
shansmi said:
lol, dare we ask why no warranty?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aside from the fact that hes obviously trashed that poor phone? Lol
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
pricej636 said:
Aside from the fact that hes obviously trashed that poor phone? Lol
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I barely had enough to buy the phone, and I figured anything wrong with it that would go wrong would happen within 30 days, and things that mostly happen on accident like screens cracking or water damage isn't even covered.
And, how did I trash it when it still works fine aside from USB not working and I need a new antennae connector? Given two parts, I could easily fix it within 5 minutes...
c0reyl said:
WTF is this wire called? Where do I get one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the guys that would answer your two questions mainly hang out in the Q&A section.
c0reyl said:
I need a new one so I can fix my phone. Getting a new microphone/usb flex board is useless if I can't connect the internal antennae to the mainboard..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung support has a 1 year parts warranty if your USB was installed improperly(not soldered, for instance).
Why the second thread and the tourette's?
Anyways, it sounds like you got your answer for the exact part number/name. Awesome.
Just out of curiosity, why did you ever take it apart to begin with? Samsung would have fixed the broken USB port under their standard 1year factory warranty. Oh well, too late for that now...
Nevermind, I remember who this guy is now, so it all makes sense...
For lawls:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=22742657
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=24013688
BIGGEST LAWL OF THE WEEK!:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26252304
Yep, that just happened, and what you saw there is real. You're welcome.
Dude, dude dude, what did you do? being that rough with your phone. Hope you don't treat your car the same way
As for your parts, don't bother with sammy, they don't sell parts unless you're buying at retailer quantities. check ebay and other online sellers to find the parts. I've managed to find a lot of parts on Ifixit (yes they do other devices besides apple devices). GL on your hunt for the parts. You may need to just buy an entirely new board btw.
paleh0rse said:
Why the second thread and the tourette's?
Anyways, it sounds like you got your answer for the exact part number/name. Awesome.
Just out of curiosity, why did you ever take it apart to begin with? Samsung would have fixed the broken USB port under their standard 1year factory warranty. Oh well, too late for that now...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm kind of used to having to do everything in life my self. I don't have the luxury of people doing things for me.
Either way, apparently the part I need doesn't exist on the internet..
Theoriginalgiga said:
Dude, dude dude, what did you do? being that rough with your phone. Hope you don't treat your car the same way
As for your parts, don't bother with sammy, they don't sell parts unless you're buying at retailer quantities. check ebay and other online sellers to find the parts. I've managed to find a lot of parts on Ifixit (yes they do other devices besides apple devices). GL on your hunt for the parts. You may need to just buy an entirely new board btw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure it happened when I put the Note in the cupholder of the truck and it got knocked loose; the cable probably bent the USB inside.
I know I need a new flex board, that's no problem, but I need to find this wire
paleh0rse said:
Nevermind, I remember who this guy is now, so it all makes sense...
For lawls:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=22742657
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=979404
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=24013688
BIGGEST LAWL OF THE WEEK!:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26252304
Yep, that just happened, and what you saw there is real. You're welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uhh I'm not even in that second link, I'm right about the USB audio, and biggest lawl of the week because I posted pics I took with my note?
You need better things to do, also I thought it was exynox based and not snapdragon which is why my old atrix destroyed it my note.
c0reyl said:
I'm kind of used to having to do everything in life my self. I don't have the luxury of people doing things for me.
Either way, apparently the part I need doesn't exist on the internet..
I'm pretty sure it happened when I put the Note in the cupholder of the truck and it got knocked loose; the cable probably bent the USB inside.
I know I need a new flex board, that's no problem, but I need to find this wire
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As I'm not 100% of all the dimensions and variable of the cable, have you
A) tested the continuity of the cable with a multi-meter to verify it is dead? (I can't tell from your picture if the cable shows any physical damage)
B) examined the length and connections to see if you could use a similar connector, say like one for a wifi card in a laptop?
C) checked to see if the original module comes with one when your order it from like ebay?
Also I don't know how your car is setup, but when I put in a custom stereo to my old corolla I was able to add a cubby under the deck and stored my phone there. of course I went from a double DIN to a single DIN so that might not be your case. Hope some of this helps.
Theoriginalgiga said:
As I'm not 100% of all the dimensions and variable of the cable, have you
A) tested the continuity of the cable with a multi-meter to verify it is dead? (I can't tell from your picture if the cable shows any physical damage)
B) examined the length and connections to see if you could use a similar connector, say like one for a wifi card in a laptop?
C) checked to see if the original module comes with one when your order it from like ebay?
Also I don't know how your car is setup, but when I put in a custom stereo to my old corolla I was able to add a cubby under the deck and stored my phone there. of course I went from a double DIN to a single DIN so that might not be your case. Hope some of this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great advice, props on effort, +1 man.
A: the crimp connector on one side failed
B: Didn't think of that, and tried repairing cable, but I can measure the length from mainboard to microphone/usb flex board connectors
C: I didn't see it on the two sites I saw the flex board come from, but I'll look further
Also, in my Buick, I used to do that with my Atrix, but the cubby hole now, is too small for that with the bigger phone, also, that happened in the Ram 1500 I drove my mom somewhere in.
But seriously, I do appreciate you spending that much effort in helping me.
EDIT: forgot to mention that I ripped apart an old laptop and the connectors won't fit from a WIFI PCI-E X1 connector.
c0reyl said:
Great advice, props on effort, +1 man.
A: the crimp connector on one side failed
B: Didn't think of that, and tried repairing cable, but I can measure the length from mainboard to microphone/usb flex board connectors
C: I didn't see it on the two sites I saw the flex board come from, but I'll look further
Also, in my Buick, I used to do that with my Atrix, but the cubby hole now, is too small for that with the bigger phone, also, that happened in the Ram 1500 I drove my mom somewhere in.
But seriously, I do appreciate you spending that much effort in helping me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well even if the cable is too long (which for any given laptop it probably will be) it could be something for you to test at the very least. the connectors do look like those I saw in my laptop (HP brand if you're curious) though they might be the wrong size. Another thought is to look for parts for the S2. Yes I know the parts probably won't match up but you may be able to find a cable with the correct connectors and salvage those. MOST manufacturers reused certain things, cheaper that way.
As for your beast of the phone, I've been looking into getting the Trident system with AMS because I kinda like the idea of getting the window mount and it clipping right into the case. those are mi thoughts.
Also I'm happy to help, I know I'm an ass and was in our previous banter (if you remember the whole USB audio thing ) but I can be helpful too haha
Poor Note didnt stand a chance...
-Once you go NOTE, you'd say 4 inches a Joke
SKyRocKeting727 said:
Poor Note didnt stand a chance...
-Once you go NOTE, you'd say 4 inches a Joke
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't understand why everyone is saying stupid things like that.. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to fix a phone. All I need is two damn parts and I can fix it in 5 minutes..
Instead of trolling, it would be more helpful if I had a link to the cable I needed.. in fact, I can turn my phone on right now, and use WiFi, and everything else but the micro USB and GSM data. Two parts would fix this.
I'm tired of people insulting my intelligence, as if I'm a retarded monkey that can't fix anything..
I'm stupid for not sending my phone to Samsung and possibly have someone else ruin my phone, when I can fix it myself given one damn cable??
c0reyl said:
I don't understand why everyone is saying stupid things like that.. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to fix a phone. All I need is two damn parts and I can fix it in 5 minutes..
Instead of trolling, it would be more helpful if I had a link to the cable I needed.. in fact, I can turn my phone on right now, and use WiFi, and everything else but the micro USB and GSM data. Two parts would fix this.
I'm tired of people insulting my intelligence, as if I'm a retarded monkey that can't fix anything..
I'm stupid for not sending my phone to Samsung and possibly have someone else ruin my phone, when I can fix it myself given one damn cable??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think he meant more that a truck +box + note = damage, not really insulting your intelligence. I know there's a lot of people on your case bro, the other thread didn't really help at all, but just take what people say with a grain of salt, take a deep breath and move on. Just remember, arguing on the internet is like the special Olympics, even if you win, you're still a retard. Trust me on this I have a couple medals myself if you catch what I'm saying.
Theoriginalgiga said:
I think he meant more that a truck +box + note = damage, not really insulting your intelligence. I know there's a lot of people on your case bro, the other thread didn't really help at all, but just take what people say with a grain of salt, take a deep breath and move on. Just remember, arguing on the internet is like the special Olympics, even if you win, you're still a retard. Trust me on this I have a couple medals myself if you catch what I'm saying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
possibly, I dunno but I'm pretty depressed about it lol. I might buy That other samsung flex board just for the cable:
http://www.mengtor.com/product_show.php?category=606&pid=2820
It's for the Samsung Epic 4G, which has different frequencies on sprint, and it's not LTE I believe.
Would that make the cable automatically not work since the phone uses different frequencies? AKA would I need the cable from an AT&T specific LTE phone to work?
The LG G Watch have issue with contacts corrosion and LG released a fix for it (the voltage on the contacts should be turned off when the watches are out of charging crandle)
But how I can detect if the patch is applied and if not, how I can apply it? I bought the watches about 2 weeks ago and I see that one contact is darker as others, when I check system update it says that I'm on newest version.
Thanks.
I'd like to know that too.
Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
Hm, I have burned my hand and now I measured the contacts and there is voltage about 1.75V when watches are on the desk, dispay is off.
System reports up to date
Can somebody tell which version of software has in the watches?
libb said:
Hm, I have burned my hand and now I measured the contacts and there is voltage about 1.75V when watches are on the desk, dispay is off.
System reports up to date
Can somebody tell which version of software has in the watches?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is on Software Version 4.4W.1 Build KGW42Q, however I have not checked the voltages...
I'll post my voltage results in a few minutes....
Cheers!
I just checked:
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So apparently the update did not took care of the pin corrosion issue after all...
Or is there a newer build?
I too am getting corrosion and I actually received my G Watch on the the week after the update went out to prevent the corrosion.
I didn't have any issues until the watch updated for a 2nd time (the first was when it booted), which was a couple weeks ago.
I'm not too troubled since my Moto 360 should be here tomorrow, but someone needs to address the damage that is being caused and provide something to those affected. I'm sure the black version of the watch doesn't look nearly as bad as the white version (which is the one I have).
If I remember to do so, I'll snap a few photos later on and share them here.
phinal said:
I too am getting corrosion and I actually received my G Watch on the the week after the update went out to prevent the corrosion.
I didn't have any issues until the watch updated for a 2nd time (the first was when it booted), which was a couple weeks ago.
I'm not too troubled since my Moto 360 should be here tomorrow, but someone needs to address the damage that is being caused and provide something to those affected. I'm sure the black version of the watch doesn't look nearly as bad as the white version (which is the one I have).
If I remember to do so, I'll snap a few photos later on and share them here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my white one (see photo above) I don't see any corrosion per se, however I can see the second pin from the top with a different (lighter) color. Is that the kind of problem you are having?
Cheers!
Rayan said:
On my white one (see photo above) I don't see any corrosion per se, however I can see the second pin from the top with a different (lighter) color. Is that the kind of problem you are having?
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mind started out like yours, but over the weekend I began to notice a build up of corrosion around the base of the pin. You can see the discoloration on the white pretty easily and this photo was taken after I scraped away much more brown corrosion from the sides of the pin.
phinal said:
Mind started out like yours, but over the weekend I began to notice a build up of corrosion around the base of the pin. You can see the discoloration on the white pretty easily and this photo was taken after I scraped away much more brown corrosion from the sides of the pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dammit, I didn't notice the corrosion buildup, mine have lots between the pins too!
How did you manage to scrape it off? Toothbrush? Plain water?
Cheers!
Rayan said:
Dammit, I didn't notice the corrosion buildup, mine have lots between the pins too!
How did you manage to scrape it off? Toothbrush? Plain water?
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Had a sharp thin piece of plastic sitting around. I'd just avoid stuff that is harder or to sharp that it damages the plastic. I really hope the next update re-fixes this issue. Otherwise it'll just keep getting worse over time.
My watches. Already packed and I will return it to Amazon. But what now?
http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cl...2078032&sr=8-1&keywords=CLP+cleaner+lubricant
Thanks for the warning, I use this stuff now.
I sent question to the LG and I got this response:
Thank you for contacting LG Electronics.
I do apologize for the trouble on our LG G Watch. Upon checking, the latest software version is the 4.4.W.1 that you already have in your device. Software updates are automatically pushed to the device once it’s connected to the internet via your mobile phone. This confirms that your device is already up-to-date.
For reference, this update was made to disable the current when the G Watch is not in the charging dock. Turning off the current should stop the chemical process that causes corrosion while the metal connectors are in contact with the skin, preventing further residue buildup that causes corrosion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So YES, we have the latest software with the fix but the fis is probably not perfect
libb said:
I sent question to the LG and I got this response:
So YES, we have the latest software with the fix but the fis is probably not perfect
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting... But can't you get back to them and send them my photo where it clearly shows the current version and evidence of voltage and see what they have to say about it?
Cheers
Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
I did, I sent him the same photo as here.
Ialready returned the device to Amazon and I'm back on Sony SW2 which is stable, display is better visible and globally are more usable. I know that it is dead platform but Android Wear needs some time to grow. Software and hardware too
libb said:
I did, I sent him the same photo as here.
Ialready returned the device to Amazon and I'm back on Sony SW2 which is stable, display is better visible and globally are more usable. I know that it is dead platform but Android Wear needs some time to grow. Software and hardware too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I purchased my G Watch through the Play Store and when I contacted them about this they immediately said they would send a replacement out. This was great service, but before using it, I'll be waiting to see if there is a fix or workaround.
I think Google is actually the ones in charge of the software updates, and so I don't think LG support would be the best to contact about the issue. The corrosion fix started rolling out late July (HERE is the list of all the updates) , and there has since been one more update in early September. I worry that something went wonky at that point.
Just yesterday I noticed the second top pin is also discolored in mine
https://plus.google.com/101499173607792501077/posts/X6iweURPDp4
My wife's do not have this issue, probably because I sweat more than her.
Did you guys experience any issues charging? If charging is not affected I will probably leave the issue as it is, afraid that scrapping/cleaning it off is going to make it worse.
ykphuah said:
Just yesterday I noticed the second top pin is also discolored in mine
My wife's do not have this issue, probably because I sweat more than her.
Did you guys experience any issues charging? If charging is not affected I will probably leave the issue as it is, afraid that scrapping/cleaning it off is going to make it worse.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read some nasty stuff about this issue. The worst thing that could happen is that you can't charge it anymore. I got my G Watch yesterday and I hope that my watch doesn't get affected by this problem.
ykphuah said:
Just yesterday I noticed the second top pin is also discolored in mine
https://plus.google.com/101499173607792501077/posts/X6iweURPDp4
My wife's do not have this issue, probably because I sweat more than her.
Did you guys experience any issues charging? If charging is not affected I will probably leave the issue as it is, afraid that scrapping/cleaning it off is going to make it worse.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just use a piece of PostIt to cover the pins!
Very easy to take off and replace lots of times.
Also try to clean the contacts from time to time to avoid corrosion build-up between the pins.
Even with the latest firmware update, still no voltage fix!
Bad LG... BAD!!!
Cheers!
Rayan said:
Just use a piece of PostIt to cover the pins!
Very easy to take off and replace lots of times.
Also try to clean the contacts from time to time to avoid corrosion build-up between the pins.
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, i'm on 4.4W.2, and I checked with a voltmeter : No tension on the pins.
Did updating to 4.4W.2 fixed the problem on yours ?
so i cannot post pictures because im a new member.
Step 1: watch any LG G5 teardown video and seperate the glass screen with mobo out of the metal casing.
step 2: on the right side of mobo under the black circle fabric (below the fabric DO NOT REMOVE FABRIC JUST LOOK UNDER IN) YOU WILL SEE 3 little button nubs.
each nub has a little bent peice of metal facing upwards. Each one needs to be pushed up a little more. the problem was they are not hitting the ribbon connection to give them power on the back casing.
you can see an image of it here imgur. com /G76xf8N remove spaces please.
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Can confirm this worked for me, here's an album if y'all want different angles on the phone
Confirmed as working for me too. I've done this mod on 3 phones already, all are a success. LG is horrible... Releasing phones with such blatant defects.
It will stop working after few days, cuz those are volume pins, has nothing to do with gps
If thats the real fix and the battery touches it, I'm almost certain that replacing batteries is causing this. It explains why many are reporting the issue coming back overtime when warranty replacing. My replacement is already getting worse GPS signal
Actually, makes sense these buttons are related to the volume buttons... There are multiple leads on the board connecting to the back of the case directly though, making me think that LG chose to use the "metal backing" as a GPS antenna. I've straightened multiple leads on the board which come in direct contact with the case itself and other elements just in case, but I have a feeling this will be an issue that plagues us G5 users until a hardware revision is done by LG...
Time to shop for another phone. What a bad investment this was...
karendar
wanna hear my story ? Bought S7 01.04.2016, 04.04.2016 was 1st time on warranty service cuz water in front cam, 2nd time 12.06 broke again same problem, last week 3rd time on warranty SAME PROBLEM, now I bought lg g5 with ****ed up GPS , VERY VERY nice.... looks like I'll give a shot to HTC 10 :/
if those 3 pins are gps antena and I dont think so, I'll just solder something to the backplace
NeoDJW said:
karendar
wanna hear my story ? Bought S7 01.04.2016, 04.04.2016 was 1st time on warranty service cuz water in front cam, 2nd time 12.06 broke again same problem, last week 3rd time on warranty SAME PROBLEM, now I bought lg g5 with ****ed up GPS , VERY VERY nice.... looks like I'll give a shot to HTC 10 :/
if those 3 pins are gps antena and I dont think so, I'll just solder something to the backplace
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Horrible how us early adopters get rimmed...
To be honest, I think those three leads do nothing but placebo after looking at the board... But notice all the leads across the board which connect to the case itself. I think those would be a better spot for GPS and phone antennas... Wish someone had a technical diagram for us.
As for the HTC 10, I've heard good things... Just not sure I'll be able to sell this phone to buy one.
Signal still holding strong today... Getting massive signal with no drops.
Is this problem still present in current versions? Or was it fixed? I can't believe LG still sells this phone with GPS not working? I get a G5 the next days, how can I check if mine has this issue too?
How ? I don' know dude, maybe, but just MAYBE you could install gps status and check it.........
I just read the "fix" and I just realized that this fix is total garbage. It can't work.
"each nub has a little bent peice of metal facing upwards. Each one needs to be pushed up a little more. the problem was they are not hitting the ribbon connection to give them power on the back casing. "
Everyone with normal reasoning can totally realize, that this "mod" will eventually fail again, really really soon, mostly after a few days, and you can read that btw already by lots of people, for example here:
https://m.reddit.com/r/lgg5/comments/4u8m9p/how_to_fix_your_gps_fixed_in_10_minutes/
Metal tends to change after some time or temperature / pressure, and it will fail again.
Why did no one develop a clever, simple and working mod so far? Why not just soldering a bit of liquid silver on the three contacts, with a bit of metal plate on top to make it 1-2mm higher? Or just even more simple: Do it on the backplate contacts.
mkdr said:
I just read the "fix" and I just realized that this fix is total garbage. It can't work.
"each nub has a little bent peice of metal facing upwards. Each one needs to be pushed up a little more. the problem was they are not hitting the ribbon connection to give them power on the back casing. "
Everyone with normal reasoning can totally realize, that this "mod" will eventually fail again, really really soon, mostly after a few days, and you can read that btw already by lots of people, for example here:
https://m.reddit.com/r/lgg5/comments/4u8m9p/how_to_fix_your_gps_fixed_in_10_minutes/
Metal tends to change after some time or temperature / pressure, and it will fail again.
Why did no one develop a clever, simple and working mod so far? Why not just soldering a bit of liquid silver on the three contacts, with a bit of metal plate on top to make it 1-2mm higher? Or just even more simple: Do it on the backplate contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To me, personally, I don't mind being a little bit critical, but with this response I think you are to direct and judgemental towards the topic starter. Topic starter has given his best to share his practice. And I agree with you this one will probably not last, but let's keep it friendly.
Sent from my LG-H850 using XDA-Developers mobile app
mkdr said:
I just read the "fix" and I just realized that this fix is total garbage. It can't work.
Everyone with normal reasoning can totally realize, that this "mod" will eventually fail again, really really soon, mostly after a few days, and you can read that btw already by lots of people, for example here:
https://m.reddit.com/r/lgg5/comments/4u8m9p/how_to_fix_your_gps_fixed_in_10_minutes/
Metal tends to change after some time or temperature / pressure, and it will fail again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
your answer is total garbage. ever seen a car that scraped on the ground because the shock absorbers failed due to temperature and high pressure just by existing?
unless you bend them over and over the method will most likely last for many years. you dont have a lot of forces acting on it.
if you make a fixed connection like soldering, the small dynamic forces would eventually weaken the material and it would break after some time. think before insulting somebody's idea
i don't think those are GPS antenna contacts.. as i used to observe that gps antennas usually have 1 or 2 contacts.. never 3! but they could do..
don't know if you read my topic about same issue and another "fix"..
at the moment we have 2 confirmed informations:
1) if you isolate detachable module pin connector you'll get no gps at all
2) gps will work good until you'll detach and reattach battery couple times.
this could explain why LG released this terminal which definitively passes any factory test! ...holy real day-use tests!
albenex said:
i don't think those are GPS antenna contacts.. as i used to observe that gps antennas usually have 1 or 2 contacts.. never 3!
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Click to collapse
we have 3 different gps systems on our phone so 3 makes sense. BDS (beidou) is only to be found on the newest hardware
lolmensch said:
we have 3 different gps systems on our phone so 3 makes sense. BDS (beidou) is only to be found on the newest hardware
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks, i've also tried this fix and seems working.. but indeed volume rockers are nearby and no other connectors were found.. mistery grows up..
this fix save me, thanks for it, now the gps works fine
lolmensch said:
your answer is total garbage. ever seen a car that scraped on the ground because the shock absorbers failed due to temperature and high pressure just by existing?
unless you bend them over and over the method will most likely last for many years. you dont have a lot of forces acting on it.
if you make a fixed connection like soldering, the small dynamic forces would eventually weaken the material and it would break after some time. think before insulting somebody's idea
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can read, right?
1. look at the link. lots of people already claimed the """mod""" lasted about 2-5 days, then the problem came back.
2. what are you talking about!? Those contacts between the board and the backplate are based up on pressure. The mod just says "try to bend them upwards a bit". THIS MEANS IT WILL TOTALLY GO IN ITS BASE POSITION AGAIN REALLY SOON. It can't work.
3. back to, if you can read. Where did I say soldering it? Right, no where. I said put some layers of conducting anything on the backplates contacts to grow its height.
Not enough forces acting on them? Seriously? So to your logic, this means this problem wouldn't occur in the first place. Pressing with your fingers on the cover at that very place mostly is enough to push them back every time a little bit., also because they're at the very edge of the cover.