The QC4.0 announcement is pretty new and I'm still pretty foggy on these details;
1. What maximum wattage will the F1 accept via USB-C PD? I'd like to get a charger for use on-the-go.
2. Does the USB-C port comply with the USB 2.0, 3.0 or 3.1 standards?
3. Does everyone's cable wiggle around a bit in the port?
4. Sometimes I hear a barely-audible crackling sound when connecting the cable; doubt its shorting but what could it be? The cable pins as they come in contact with the phone contacts?
5. Does anyone else's port look a little weird? I can't attach an image but it looks like the edge of the plastic connector inside is a little deformed.
Related
First off I'd to say hello from Alaska,
Ok this may sound strange but does anybody out there know where i might find or have one made, I'm looking for a cable with 2 40 pin connectors on both ends, 1 male and the other female. This is for my TF201 and dock, I would use it so I don't have to take off the case to the Prime just plug in to the prime and to the dock..
Thank you all Stan
Cables to Go should be able to do this for you. I've had them make custom cables for me before. It likely won't be cheap, but they should be able to do it.
www.cablestogo.com
Just in case anyone was curious, I thought I would try to get lucky and see if a female-female USB adapter with a standard ASUS 40-pin cable on either end would work. However, it was only a novel attempt and the tablet does not recognize the dock as I had hoped.
I am sure Cables-to-Go could get something to work, but I agree that it will be quite expensive. It would be nice if there was a jumper cable accessory to accomplish this same concept since I am in the same position as the OP and typically carry the tablet in its own case and only use the dock when I have alot of typing to do.
On a side note, I did confirm that my Logitech Anywhere Mouse with the Unifying Receiver does work 100% with my tablet and Dock!....I just may be able to leave the laptop at the office yet!
Does anyone have a mapping of the pins and wires? I would like to try and "splice" two cables together to try and make a jumper cable but would need to make sure that I make the right connections. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I don't think that's going to work for several reasons.
First and foremost, if use two TP USB cables as the souce of the parts, you'll end up with a "jumper" cable with male connectors at both ends. You need male to female, remember?
Secondarily (and almost as important) is the number of contacts on the USB end of the cable. USB has four conductors plus shield and nine conductors plus shield in USB 3. Taking a cursory glance at USB plug on my TP cable, that's all there is. I don't see any additional conductors.
Following this, it's EXCEEDINGLY unlikely that the cable has 40 wires (one for each pin on the Prime end) running the full length. If it did, where would they connect to on the USB plug? Kinda silly to include extra copper to go nowhere.
Instead, if you were to pry open the 40 pin male plug, you'll see that most the pins aren't connected to anything. They're not needed for the USB cable.
Sorry to say, this just isn't going to work.
If you do choose to clip one of your cables just to have a look-see, cut the cable somewhere in the middle. If you cut right up next to the USB plug, you won't have ample wire there to repair what you're about to break.
I am aware that you will need a female adapter to make a true "jumper" cable. However, there may be a way of jerry-rigging a connection to the dock if a female connector can't be found (I have yet to find a part online).
My question is more in regards to whether or not anyone had a schematic of which of the pins are connected to which of the respective USB pins so that I could determine the best way of making a connection....short of having a cable for the ASUS TF201 like this: iPhone Extension Cable
I didn't see a thread about this yet so I thought I'd make one for us to relay our experiences with different micro USB 3.0 B cables, our Galaxy Note 3 phones, and the various cases we may have tried them with.
First off, the stock Samsung cable is the smallest and lowest-profile microUSB 3.0 B cable I've seen yet, which is important because the bulkier ones are just more prominent protrusions begging to get bents or broken, damaging the connected device with it. The problem is that all the Note 3 cases act like it's a proprietary cable and they only need to design around it instead of aiming to fit a wide variety of standard cables. So far mine has not received any excessive force from any cable, but it's a concern I always have with many USB devices (USB drive in a notebook, for example). I have found that even with the stock cable the port in the phone itself frequently needs to be blown out. At least three times I have found my phone plugged in and not charging with a connection being very hard to achieve and maintain (momentarily connects when tweaked) until I blow in the port (then it's rock-solid for another week+). My port has never been forced or damaged and it does it with every cable I try until I blow, so I know that we are dealing with contamination or oxidation. The first time was before it had ever had any other cable used with it.
Next up: the Amazon Basics Premium cable.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...8&qid=1386737410&sr=8-4&keywords=USB3.0+Micro
My first one was DOA and didn't work at all unless you held it at a strange angle. The replacement worked as reliably as the original but it is too thick and bulky. I often have trouble finding a place and orientation to lay my phone when using it that doesn't put too much stress on the cable/connectors. It is NOT the kind of cable you want to carry around in your pocket or use in the car. I don't even like using it with my laptop so it's going to be my desktop charge and transfer cable exclusively. Even the connectors are bulky. Luckily, the rubber-like material around the port in my Slim Armor case flexes enough that it fits fine. Same for the Unicorn Beetle Sup Case. I still need to try my Bear Motion/Poetic bumper case and the slim Caseology case.
Even when not using USB3's faster transfer and charging features, I still prefer using it over a microUSB 2.0 B cable because it seems safer to spread the load over a bigger connector if it gets accidentally tweaked. I've repaired enough traditional microUSB 2.0 B connectors on phone PCBs and I do not want to risk damaging an MHL 3.0 version! It seems to me that a right-angle connector would be safer as it would not protrude away from the device and the cable has the chance to run along the device's exterior structure until it is far enough away to absorb and relieve most tension that would move it independently from the device. For this reason I intend to get a right-angle mUSB3 cablemy notebook that I often use in bed. So far the only one I have found is here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141133546501?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I missed the auction but I'm prowling for another and I will report my experience here.
I also wonder if this cable can charge faster from a typical dual-port car charger:
http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-dual...&qid=1386737410&sr=8-13&keywords=USB3.0+Micro
I've also ordered a couple TYLT Vu wireless charging stands and the official Samsung wireless charging back to minimize my use of the port, so it looks like I'm switching to the bumper case (only one that fits the official cover). I should get a dust cover/plug for the port so that I won't have to blow it out when I do finally use it.
Another strange issue I had even with the stock cable was that it would disconnect and reconnect in USB 2.0 mode almost as soon as I enabled USB 3.0 mode and started transferring. Possibly important circumstances: I was trying to rip some 1080p video samples to check out on my first 1080p phone so I started ripping a couple BD movies to my Alienware M11x r3 (AnyDVD + Handbrake). 1080p files are large, so I figured it was as good a time as any to try to get slightly faster transfer speeds with USB3. This notebook has no optical drive so I made the rips using an external USB-powered BD drive plugged into the other USB3.0 port. It was a slimline EIDE drive in a USB2.0 enclosure, so there was a mix of USB2.0 and 3.0 devices connected to the two USB3.0 ports. When the first rip finished I started the second rip and then enabled USB3.0 on the phone to start transferring the first rip. After the problem repeated itself I tried changing cables and the problem remained. It worked fine when I tried again with only the phone connected. If that's expected behavior with a mix of 2.0 and 3.0 devices then I would have expected it to happen immediately instead of waiting until after I started a file transfer. Edit: It happened again this morning but I now know it happens even in USB2.0 mode. The BD drive was ripping while connected to the PC's native USB2.0 port and the phone was connected to one of the two USB 3.0 ports. It disconnected as soon as I started the transfer in USB3.0 mode so I restarted in 2.0 mode and it did the same thing. I had to wait for the encode to finish, so it looks like it has something to do with the MTP connection not being stable while the CPU is busy. Stupid.
I finally tried the Amazon Basics Premium micro USB 3.0 cable with the Bear Motion / Poetic bumper case and it can be made to fit. Unlike the others, you can't just push it in and expect the materials to flex enough to allow it. You have to work it in or else the material gets between the plug and the phone and prevents full insertion. I don't think it matters but I am using the official Samsung wireless charge cover battery door, which is why I switched back to the bumper case.
I can confirm that the Lecco USB-A to USB-C cords are of good quality free from soldering defects etc.
My non-charging symptoms are that the phone starts to charge and then stops charging, The USB cord works fine for file transfer
End to end connectivity of the cable is fine, The USB-A end connectivity to the charger on the (+Ve, Gnd, D+ D-) is intact.
There is a inline Fuse which was intact
A IR1 designated diode or resistor ? in the USB-C end .. It was open circuit ? I will work up a diagram when my eyes recover
I cannot confirm the contacts that the USB-C makes with the phone BUT the fingers all look fine. !
Mine is marked with the "Le" logo on one side, so it's easy to remember the side which you mention about. I had no problems with the cable and I never cared about the side of USB-A that I plug in.
Still, a good point though.
valy_cta said:
Mine is marked with the "Le" logo on one side, so it's easy to remember the side which you mention about. I had no problems with the cable and I never cared about the side of USB-A that I plug in.
Still, a good point though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes mine has the logo as well, I concluded this possible cause for failure because its so easy to plug in reversed ? I will open the connector in the next few days to hopefully show where the failure occurs .
I've just compared the USB-A male from the OEM cable with another regular male port and I see that LeEco did a good job with it. The middle part is very thin and positioned very well. By plugging it into a female port and even reversing it, I haven't noticed any flexing of the middle part either way (I've watched it through the 2 small holes that keep the male port attached). There should be some movement, but I think it's too small to be noticed.
Anyhow, I'm looking forward to your disassembly of the connector.
valy_cta said:
I've just compared the USB-A male from the OEM cable with another regular male port and I see that LeEco did a good job with it. The middle part is very thin and positioned very well. By plugging it into a female port and even reversing it, I haven't noticed any flexing of the middle part either way (I've watched it through the 2 small holes that keep the male port attached). There should be some movement, but I think it's too small to be noticed.
Anyhow, I'm looking forward to your disassembly of the connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Scratch that theory ! Indeed the Lecco USB-A end is robust and NOT the problem ?! All wires to Pins test out ok.
I will need to investigate the USB-C end or the cable !
cheers
Thanks for the teardown.
I do agree that too many people were complaining about the cable that somehow it stopped charging, so there should be a weak point. Most of them reported failure within the first week or so, this makes me believe that it should be some bad soldering somewhere. It just needs few flexes and it's broken. I do suspect the junctions at the plugs either side.
Some safety precautions:
- Never remove the charger out of the socket by pulling the cable
- Never remove the cable out of the USB port (either side) by pulling the cable, pull it from the plug
- Whenever you are carrying the charger in a bag, remove the cable from the USB port
- When not in use, spin the cable to form a small coil of about 10cm in diameter (very subjective, the point is not to form an angle that might damage it; a 90 degree angle when caught between the drawers, etc)
PS: Was you cable broken or something?
valy_cta said:
Thanks for the teardown.
I do agree that too many people were complaining about the cable that somehow it stopped charging, so there should be a weak point. Most of them reported failure within the first week or so, this makes me believe that it should be some bad soldering somewhere. It just needs few flexes and it's broken. I do suspect the junctions at the plugs either side.
Some safety precautions:
- Never remove the charger out of the socket by pulling the cable
- Never remove the cable out of the USB port (either side) by pulling the cable, pull it from the plug
- Whenever you are carrying the charger in a bag, remove the cable from the USB port
- When not in use, spin the cable to form a small coil of about 10cm in diameter (very subjective, the point is not to form an angle that might damage it; a 90 degree angle when caught between the drawers, etc)
PS: Was you cable broken or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm that the soldering and the wire quality are top notch, End to end connectivity is good!
At the USB-C end there is a fuse inline with the +VE (Red wires) intact in my case, and a IR1 Zener diode (I think) , Or a resistor ?
Its open circuit ! (they normally go closed circuit ?) I have noticed sometimes plugging in the Power pack that the mains pins will give a little spark ?
So maybe that has blown the Diode ? IE Plugging in the powerpack with the cord attached might not be advisable ?
I have yet to work out the wiring .... of the IR1 diode / resistor ?
The only thing I cannot confirm is the contact made by the USB-C fingers onto the Phone connector..... I won't be doing any more.
Replacement cords are cheap
My cable is fine but I have a problem with my charger. It charges fine once, but having been disconnected (even midway through charging) it won't work again for at least a day. After about a day it generally works again, but again only one time. Very strange and annoying.
In Germany we have a couple of guys complaining about the Leeco OEM cable too. But if I remember correct these guys had a different kind of cable in their package.
USB-C to USB-C instead of the USB-A to USB-C variant.
That seems to be the case for people who had buying the phone from banggood with shipping from Europe direct.
Maybe there's another manufacturer of the cable with a bad soldering standard!?
My girlfriend and myself were both receiving​ our Max 2 with the USB-A to USB-C variant of the cable about nearly 5 Month ago and no issues so far!
USB-C to USB-C should be the way of the future for everything !
My cord had been working fine for 6 months, never unplugged from the charger, never rolled, never damaged.
It just went faulty after I had transferred files from my PC to the phone for a rom upgrade etc that the problem occurred.
Just coincidental ! ?
Hello
Can someone tell me the exact type of USB connector is on the Samsung Galaxy View. Then manual only says
it's a USB connector V2.
I've ordered the device but have not received it yet. But trying to determine if the connector is USB v2 or micro USB connector?
Want to plug in an ethernet adapter.
Thanks in advance
JRS
The port is micro-USB (not to be confused with mini-USB). Although most stores don't mention it, most reviews do. The Gizmodo review even has a close-up picture: https://gizmodo.com/samsung-galaxy-view-review-i-love-this-magical-slab-of-1740835366
i would recommend grabbing a micro usb "cable" OTA adapter - you can utilize it for all usb storage, upgrades, etc, etc.... they make a hard snap in adapter but use caution on them as for as easy as they snap in , they also snap out breaking your port with it. The cable adapters are way more flexible and with the tablet being so large in the first place it really doesn't make a difference if it's dangling on the side.
I tried to hook up a game controller via the OTG adapter and it appears to not send any power out from it. Even with a USB thumb drive and other USB C adapters, nothing seems to work. Has anyone else noticed this? You can transfer data via the cable just fine, but I find it strange it doesn't send any power through the plug.
Have you tried connecting it the other way round?
tomixnscale89 said:
I tried to hook up a game controller via the OTG adapter and it appears to not send any power out from it. Even with a USB thumb drive and other USB C adapters, nothing seems to work. Has anyone else noticed this? You can transfer data via the cable just fine, but I find it strange it doesn't send any power through the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I noticed the same thing. I believe it's because once it comes out the other side with the 5-pin adapter, it is then reduced to the old micro-usb specification, which uses 5 wires. True USB-C connection has like 20 or 24 pins. I was able to get a couple very basic OTG of things to work, like a mouse and a thumb drive. BUT HERE IS THE CATCH - The mag connector has 5 pins, reduced from 20-some on the C connection.. so true USB-C connection is no longer possible once you get on the other side of the connector. So the trick is to NOT use a USB-C OTG when it's in the case with magnetic adapter. You must use a Micro USB OTG with a Micro-to-C adapter attached to that. Even so, not everything worked just by sticking on the Micro-to-C adapter.. Mouse and a thumb drive worked, but my ethernet adapter and VGA/HML/HDMI adapters did not. Out of the case, I can use my USB-C to HDMI cable to display on my TV. But same cord does not work with the magnetic adapter with the case. It is simply not possible because the reduction of contact pins from phone to case to magnet.. One more thing to consider, if you're trying to do anything other than charging, make sure the magnet is on the right way.. there's a little logo it should be in the front.
If I can come across a spare or broken Dual Screen case, I'd be curious to take it apart and see if it would be possible to rig it up with a better plug for the case.. find which wires go to the workings of the DS and leave them intact, but then try to replace the magnetic pins with a female C plug that has all the contacts intact still..
Seymour_Asses said:
I noticed the same thing. I believe it's because once it comes out the other side with the 5-pin adapter, it is then reduced to the old micro-usb specification, which uses 5 wires. True USB-C connection has like 20 or 24 pins. I was able to get a couple very basic OTG of things to work, like a mouse and a thumb drive. BUT HERE IS THE CATCH - The mag connector has 5 pins, reduced from 20-some on the C connection.. so true USB-C connection is no longer possible once you get on the other side of the connector. So the trick is to NOT use a USB-C OTG when it's in the case with magnetic adapter. You must use a Micro USB OTG with a Micro-to-C adapter attached to that. Even so, not everything worked just by sticking on the Micro-to-C adapter.. Mouse and a thumb drive worked, but my ethernet adapter and VGA/HML/HDMI adapters did not. Out of the case, I can use my USB-C to HDMI cable to display on my TV. But same cord does not work with the magnetic adapter with the case. It is simply not possible because the reduction of contact pins from phone to case to magnet.. One more thing to consider, if you're trying to do anything other than charging, make sure the magnet is on the right way.. there's a little logo it should be in the front.
If I can come across a spare or broken Dual Screen case, I'd be curious to take it apart and see if it would be possible to rig it up with a better plug for the case.. find which wires go to the workings of the DS and leave them intact, but then try to replace the magnetic pins with a female C plug that has all the contacts intact still..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you @Seymour_Asses ! I saw here https://twitter.com/konic0s/status/1202966945693220865 that LG G8X supports USB-C to HDMI adapters but I didn't know if it also worked with the Dual Screen case but now I know it doesn't, thanks for the information, very helpful ! :good:
BTW I think that when you connect the Dual Screen case to the G8X it uses the dedicated USB-C high speed pins of the G8X for video-out so these pins are not available anymore for other HDMI out, I'm not sure about it and don't have any proofs but it seems you are right about not enough pins on the mag connector.
If i remember correctly, the manual states that most USB-C functions wont work though the dual screen case. I think there was some speculation that its due to most of that bandwidth being used for the second screen.
Quite simple: the Mag USB-C adapter is for charging only. It drives me mad as i have a professional USB-C headphone that I use for conferencing.
But I understand the reason: when in dual screen, the USB-C data connection is in use dor the second screen, enabling the USB-C connection beyond that requires a hub to be built in the case "before" the DS connection (so it wont work building it in the dongle itself).
I wish LG went with a Pogo connector on the bottom or on the side to activate the DS case. This would have made the chin slimmer and freed up the USB-C port.
Anyway, it is what it is now, and i will not trade my LG G8x DS for anything at the moment... Until maybe that Surface Duo phone for which I might need to sell a vital organ ?