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Does anyone know if there is a third party Touch HD cover with a reset hole, so that we can perform reset wihtout having to remove the back cover?
I usually try to reset by software, but often this is not possible because the device is frozen, in which case I would remove the back cover and take off the battery.
How much more convenience there will be if I can just poke into the reset hold without removing the cover, isn't it?
why not just drill the cover yourself?
What tools do you use for this drilling job? How do you get it at the correct position? Will the paint around it come off if an amateur does the drilling?
I would love one with micro SD card hole. But I would need an extra back cover to have that as backup.
Try it with one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Housing-Batte...3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:2|39:1|240:1318
It is a relatively simple task drilling a hole, or making a cut-out.
I would suggest buying a spare back cover first though.
You will need;
something like a 2.5mm drill bit (just got HD like an hr ago not had chance to play with it or make measurements), 2 bits of masking tape, a small ruler or measuring tape, something to protect the back when laying it on a suitable surface to drill on.
Accurately measure where the button is in relation to where the hole is to be.
Put the Masking tape either side of the back roughly where the hole will be, then carefully transfer the measurements over on to the back and mark on the tape where the hole will be.
Using a suitable bit, while resting the back on something to prevent scratches, drill the hole.
Please note having a hole may increase chances of dust and lint getting into the battery compartment - you could resolve this by getting a small 10mm square piece of foam (same kind as used in light traps in cameras - its pretty thin).
For the Micro SD cut out, sorry you'll need to ask me later once I've had a chance to have a proper look.
Feel free to PM me
It is a relatively simple task drilling a hole, or making a cut-out.
I would suggest buying a spare back cover first though.
You will need;
something like a 2.5mm drill bit (just got HD like an hr ago not had chance to play with it or make measurements), 2 bits of masking tape, a small ruler or measuring tape, something to protect the back when laying it on a suitable surface to drill on.
Accurately measure where the button is in relation to where the hole is to be.
Put the Masking tape either side of the back roughly where the hole will be, then carefully transfer the measurements over on to the back and mark on the tape where the hole will be.
Using a suitable bit, while resting the back on something to prevent scratches, drill the hole.
Please note having a hole may increase chances of dust and lint getting into the battery compartment - you could resolve this by getting a small 10mm square piece of foam (same kind as used in light traps in cameras - its pretty thin).
For the Micro SD cut out, sorry you'll need to ask me later once I've had a chance to have a proper look.
Feel free to PM me
As above & using my trusty Dremmel in its drill press to get an accurate location.
Although, I'm also not too keen to have an 'open' hole on my case.
For an micro SD cut out cover, suppose you could use a small piece of sheet rubber: leave 2 lugs either side to secure the flap when closed and secure the flap to the back.
Or you could perform something approaching micro surgery and construct a carrier for it that replacesthe bit cut out for the hole.
why not install
holyfox's_poweroff-diamond.cab
ljazzo1 said:
why not install
holyfox's_poweroff-diamond.cab
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Click to collapse
Read the first post - he wants this for when the device is frozen and a software reset would not be possible.
iPhoneLCD superior to Blackstone! but Blackstone practical than the iPhone!
I just bought a Boxwave 2500mah extended battery that comes with a extended battery door for my Touch HD and I think its pretty easy & possible to make reset hole for the battery door. You just need a really pointy and sharp exacto knife to puncture the plastic battery door and then just rotate the knife until you get your desired size of the hole. Tried this many times when I was still playing with "Lets Go Tamiya Cars".
About the hole for the microSD card, I think this one will be a little tricky to do because you might hit one of the locks for the door upon modification.
eaglesteve said:
Does anyone know if there is a third party Touch HD cover with a reset hole, so that we can perform reset wihtout having to remove the back cover?
I usually try to reset by software, but often this is not possible because the device is frozen, in which case I would remove the back cover and take off the battery.
How much more convenience there will be if I can just poke into the reset hold without removing the cover, isn't it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi eaglesteve,
If the device is frozen, can't you just reset by holding the power key down for 3 seconds? This should always kill the power, leading to a soft reset when you turn it back on. It's my preferred method for tboth the Blackstone and Diamond products.
mike.waters said:
Hi eaglesteve,
If the device is frozen, can't you just reset by holding the power key down for 3 seconds? This should always kill the power, leading to a soft reset when you turn it back on. It's my preferred method for tboth the Blackstone and Diamond products.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is that the Blackstone requires a touch confirmation and this is usually not possible when the device is frozen.
Hi,like this ?
Marcdu81 said:
Hi,like this ?
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Click to collapse
this is crazy... why are u people drilling the cover when u can slide it out normally ...
Hi,
Where i can find a back cover with reset hole?
Thanx
I think you will have to buy a replacement battery cover and drill a hole in it yourself
I've just successfully converted my GSM Razr to a Maxx today and like to share some of the experience...
As basic orientation, the instructional video from CRS is okay, together with the images on Ifixit.com they provide good help, although they fall a bit short at some points.
The following only reflects my own opinion/experience... if you're not as clumsy or cautious as I am - good for you.
Stuff you need to get:
Get the black maxx PCB frame. And get a replacement camera bezel.
T3, T4 and T5 Torx screwdriver. Yes, T4 too, wait till you read why.
For opening up the phone and handling parts, you need these as well:
I needed each one of them and besides the Torx, nothing else was required.
Get a bunch of these for cheap on Ebay. Color or vendor don't matter, they're all made of the same stuff.
The tools you don't need:
iSesamo... don't order it. And don't use it if you get it sent to you nonetheless (like in my case). It's made of metal.
Not only can it easily get you some nasty dents/scratches at the side of the housing, it can, when being handled unfortunately, destroy the electronics on your phone's motherboard... you don't want that.
The spudger.. I don't know, I didn't need it at any point
Here are some additions to the CRS & Ifixit documentations:
I) In CRS' video and on the Ifixit website, you will read that T3 + T5 screwdrivers are required. Unfortunately, they both either made a mistake, or the production process has been altered, because T4 is needed as well; actually, all but 3 (of all those described as T3) were infact T4 torx screws. Imagine my heartbeat when I tried to use a T3 on the screws and it didn't fit
II) I did (negligently) break the camera bezel while removing it. If you don't use a heatgun/dryer to losen the adhesive beneath it, you will almost certainly break it. And that's ok, because a replacement bezel costs 6$, while damaging stuff like the rear camera with too much heat costs almost tenfold.
I honestly can't tell if it is really dangerous to heat up stuff like the camera or not, I just didn't want to risk it.
III) Opening the phone and removing parts is a pain in the ***. You're brest served using...
- The thick long prying tool and the thick plectrum for opening the housing.
- The thick long prying tool to remove the the PCB frame.
- The slim long prying tool for removing the speaker from the old housing without damage (don't use a screwdriver or so)
- The slim long prying tool for removing/replacing the battery pole rubber cover and the mic rubber grommet.
- The slim plectrum to slide it under the battery and losen it before even thinking about pulling the "battery removal" grip.
- The slim plectrum or the slim prying tool for losening sensitive parts of the housing (e.g. sim door)
Generally, opening/removing parts is a hassle but if you take your time and exercise medium caution, you won't damage anything of value.
IV) CRS delivers (or at least did in my case) only 1 piece of double sided adhesive to stick the back side of the new battery, while the original battery has adhesive on BOTH sides.
V) Test run your device after you inserted the new battery (and secured its screws). If everything runs ok, then proceed to snap on the black housing frame and the back cover.
VI) Make sure the housing frame and back cover snap on tightly (=correctly) at every single spot, ESPECIALLY at the SIM card door.
I recommend starting to snap on the back cover exactly at that spot, making sure that the thin lower frame part of the SIM card door snaps on tightly. If you mess up that spot, you might be unable to correct it without re-removing the entire back door.
That should be sufficient for now...
Oh BTW:
The back door cover delivered by CRS has a fat "4G Verizon" writing on it. Live with it -.-
This is an extended battery mod using two OEM batteries for the LG Optimus L9 P769. I am currently running AntonX's version of CM 10.2, which is OC'd to 1350 and UC'd to 200. Love his rom.
Credits to:
fastwanabe - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2397045
s0me guy - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1800177&highlight=battery+mod
Do this mod at your own risk! Soldering together lithium-ion batteries can be dangerous especially if you short them out. Those without soldering skills probably shouldn't do this! This can also destroy your phone!
The case I used was a pandmimi ULAK case - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2DI44/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also suggest getting another wall charger with a higher amperage output. The stock charger might not work anymore. Something around 1.5 amps would probably do fine.
Suggested tools and parts:
- two new OEM BL-53qh batteries
- Soldering Equipment (Iron, Desoldering Braid, Solder, tip cleaner, etc)
- Wire to solder batteries together
- Small rotary cutting tool such as a dremel to cut case and back plate
- Razor knife to cut rubber sleeve
- Liquid Electrical Tape to cover exposed terminals
- Tape to hold batteries together
- Volt meter with a continuity or resistance function to test for shorts
- Double sided tape or tape roller up into a cylinder
- Pencil or marker
Step One- Gather materials and prepare a clean working area so you have ample room
Step Two- Charge both NEW batteries fully so their voltages are about the same.
Step Three - Place one battery in phone and put rolled up tape or double sided tape between back case and battery close it tight
Step Four - Remove back case so the battery comes out with it mark it with a pencil or marker
Step Five - Cut out back piece with razor knife or rotary cutting tool be careful not to break the back case. Keep the thin plastic we will use that later
Step Six - place the rubber piece on with nothing else and cut out the hole by pressing on it to mark the battery compartment and cut the rubber with the razor knife.
Step Seven - Tape both batteries together and place them in the phone put on the back case and the rubber. Place double sided tape on battery then line up the hard ULAK case with the rubber. Once alligned press them firmly together and pull the hard ULAK case off with the battery still attached. Mark where the batteries are with something. Remove the batteries and use the rotary cutting tool to cut the square battery hole out.
Step Eight - Clean up all the holes so that each piece can be removed without interfering with the batteries.
Step Nine- Use the liquid tape on the P769 back cover where the copper might be exposed
Step Ten - Solder positive to positive then check for shorts if there are no shorts solder negative to negative and check for shorts. if there are no shorts and the connections are good and sturdy then all the soldering is done. Make sure that the wire doesn't stick out to far from the battery because it might not fit in the battery compartment. To make things easier I burnt away the little bit of plastic that sticks up between the solder bridge and it is also a good idea to tin the connections and the wire before soldering them together.
Step Eleven - Once all the soldering is done and you are certain there are no shorts and your connections are good. connect the battery to the phone and try to turn it on. It should boot up with around 100% battery life during the first hour of use make sure to feel for battery warmth. If it starts to get really hot. It's probably messed up and you should fix it. Once all the checks are done and the battery fits in the phone fine use fast discharge and turn it on select everything if you want. Run it for about 5 or 10 minutes. if the battery gets warm but the temperature monitor doesn't move than your solder bridges are too tall making the other two connections not to touch the pins inside the battery compartment. After that is done and working use the liquid tape to cover the exposed connections that don't go inside your phone.
Step Twelve - Put the all the case pieces back on. Take the piece that you cut off the P769 back case and place it ontop of the battery use tape to tape it on. Then put on any decorative tape to cover the ugly hole. Take off the ULAK hard plastic case and put tape on the other side to prevent it slightly sticking to the battery. Then you can put it back together and enjoy you're long battery life.
Step Thirteen - Calibrate your phones battery http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2192948
That's it. If anyone reads through it and doesn't understand or think I may have went too in depth they are welcomed to correct me. I hope you enjoy the mod whether you try or not that's up to you.
That is absolutely sick. Father was showing me how to solder awhile back, maybe I'll get around to this
Yeah it's a pretty good mod. I love absolutely love it. feels good in my hand, it isn't heavy. it really isn't hard to do as long as you have the tools and take your time. I love it. idt i've had my phone die in one day since I have did the double battery mod. it's quite spectacular. I suppose I have the extra battery life because it's a bit undervolted by AntonX's CM 11.
Hi guys,
I have my z2 for a while now (2 years I think), and he has tried to beat down the floor sometimes and until now, hasn't been victorious.
So the thing is, after the last try, he has the back cover a little openned in the middle (I can see a little of the glue and can stick something between the cover and the phone), and also, has a little opening in the screen, just like the cover. After this, the buttons got a little strage too, need to press power and up too hard to work, down is ok.
I would like to now, if anyone has experienced that, and know what could it be, I haven't openned it yet as it need the adhesive to put the cover back and I don't have access to it in my city, have to order it online.
Thanks!!!
And sorry for the bad english.
It could be the battery swelling as its on it's last legs.
If it was mine I would remove the back cover to inspect the battery, before things got (possibly) much worse.
My Z2 is over two years old and the back cover started to lift adjacent to the charging port. The cause was the pcb spring contacts for the NFC antenna pushing against the cover,which I've subsequently remedied. The physical appearance and size of the battery is all good so I have no safety worries although it will need replacing simply due to its age and noticeable decrease in capacity.
The back cover was only raised about a millimetre but it was noticeable enough and annoying. There is no problem with screen separation.
If my problems were similar to yours I would immediately take off the back cover, remove the battery and fully inspect it for signs of swelling. A new rear gasket / seal is easier to remedy than a complete phone wrecked by a screwed battery.
Good luck :good:
I see, can I use it without the back cover?
Cause it would take something like 2 weeks to get the seal from internet.
Your problem is kind of like mine, but mine isn't in the nfc point, but in the battery point, just above her, I thought about it at first too, I'll see about it then! Tnks!
Google "Xperia Z2 teardown" and you will see that the battery occupies more-or-less the mid-to-lower part of the phone. If your screen and rear cover are bulging from the centre outwards then it *probably* is the battery swelling.
I removed my rear cover about 6 weeks ago and the gasket was mostly intact so after sorting the NFC contacts I just reattached it as-is. It's stayed in place so far, but I also have a CASE-MATE transparent polycarbonate rear cover that adds further protection.
Once I find a genuine Sony battery and replacement gasket at reasonable prices I will get them ordered. So far things are fine.
If you manage to keep the gasket intact like I did it should be fine to reattach the cover until you get a new one.
And even if your battery hasn't swelled it may also be worth replacing that too, considering it's 2 years old.
I see, I also use a case-mate to protect more, cant handle it without it, I guess I'll try to do it then, seriously? I thought that battery would last longer, I'll see into that, now it makes sense, the battery started to die faster a while ago, nice to know.
Thanks!
Just oppened it, It was the battery as discussed above. Thanks!
Now you know what the problem is its easy to sort it out.
Would be good if you post a pic of the battery.
Here it go:
http://imgur.com/a/5Z48h
Got pic from the the battery and the back curved.
Yeah it's obvious from the pics. I think you've caught it just in time.
A new gasket and battery and your Z2 will live maybe another 2 years :good:
Hi all,
My Z4 has started to shut itself down reasonably soon after booting, usually after starting and using apps and when reporting at high levels of battery charge. (haven't tested at lower battery levels)
Immediately after the tablet won't boot with the screen showing the low battery icon. Plugging the power back in will allow the unit to start up again and it generally runs when connected to power even if it is using more power that it is charging with.
This laptop is stock with the original Battery.
DO these system heavily suggest that the battery is nearly dead or more likely a seperate issue.
I am trying to decide if I should buy a new battery or throw the unit.
Get a battery... if you want to keep it.
Yes, this sounds like old battery.
But be aware, you will have to remove the screen to replace the battery. It is possible (did it myself), but risky to break the glass! Use adjustable heat gun and very thin spudger. (don't use this blue triangle spudger stuff that is offered frequently, this would bend the glas to much)
allofmex said:
Yes, this sounds like old battery.
But be aware, you will have to remove the screen to replace the battery. It is possible (did it myself), but risky to break the glass! Use adjustable heat gun and very thin spudger. (don't use this blue triangle spudger stuff that is offered frequently, this would bend the glas to much)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah that will be tricky. Don't force it.
You can't use isopropyl alcohol either to soften the adhesive as it's a liquid crystal display. Any solvent can permanently poison LCD's if it makes contact with the edge of the display.
blackhawk said:
You can't use isopropyl alcohol either...
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Click to collapse
To be honest, I carefully used isopropyl alcohol without negative effects at the glass edges (without touching the display part). Nevertheless it did not really help to dissolve the glue.
Scraping with a plastic tool did it for me. But there should be a better solution, this was the most annoying part.
allofmex said:
To be honest, I carefully used isopropyl alcohol without negative effects at the glass edges (without touching the display part). Nevertheless it did not really help to dissolve the glue.
Scraping with a plastic tool did it for me. But there should be a better solution, this was the most annoying part.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anhydrous Isopropyl alcohol is great for many things but each application is different and you need to use your best judgement when using it to avoid rude surprises.
The sides of a LCD aren't sealed; it's a permeable membrane. The liquid crystal layer is extremely sensitive to solvents. Even concentrated vapors can damage them.
I've built up prototype assemblies with these little buggers... hand soldering fine pitch flat packs is easier The LCDs always go on last.
Be careful...
allofmex said:
Yes, this sounds like old battery.
But be aware, you will have to remove the screen to replace the battery. It is possible (did it myself), but risky to break the glass! Use adjustable heat gun and very thin spudger. (don't use this blue triangle spudger stuff that is offered frequently, this would bend the glas to much)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, just bought one of the ifixit kits, but it sound like I may need a seperate spudger. Will also need a heat gun.
Evil-Santa said:
Thank you, just bought one of the ifixit kits, but it sound like I may need a seperate spudger. Will also need a heat gun.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are welcome.
Hot plates are what the pros use but for a one shot deal it's overkill.
Hairdryers air volume is too high to be effective.
Get a good heat gun as they are useful.
If it has a no heat blower setting, use it to cool it off before shutdown.
Otherwise sit it down with the nozzle up. Sometimes the residual heat will melt the plastic impeller on cheaper ones.
Use a piece of cardboard to help contain the heat. Do not overheat the device...
Hi . I need to replace the battery of my Sony Z4 tablet . I live in Greece and i cannot find a new battery in order to do it. I have found battery for Sony Tablet S . Would it be compatible with my Z4? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks