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Hi guis, someone has already found/buy valid device?? thanks
I use one of these, small, slim, usb bus powered, multi format.
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/132741/show_product_specifications#specifications
Pantaloonie said:
I use one of these, small, slim, usb bus powered, multi format.
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/132741/show_product_specifications#specifications
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's nice that it's a small one, but every USB device will work
I didn't have any, but have an USB Harddisk (IDE).
I attached a DVD player to the IDE connection for the harddisk and it worked.
I'm not using this everytime, but only used it for installation of SP1 and Office 2007 Enterprise.
Now my HD is putted back in his case
Pantaloonie said:
I use one of these, small, slim, usb bus powered, multi format.
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/132741/show_product_specifications#specifications
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you put htcshift in bios mode, you can see the dvd writer on device list?
Very very very tanks!!
killer_t said:
If you put htcshift in bios mode, you can see the dvd writer on device list?
Very very very tanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know about that but you can select in the bootlist. (I used it to make a Ghost image )
michael85 said:
Don't know about that but you can select in the bootlist. (I used it to make a Ghost image )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an external 120 gb usb traxtor 1,8" hard disk, but i no see them in bios device...
Both my LG DVD drive and my 250Gb 2.5" WD Passport drive show in the bios and can be booted from.
LG DVD/USB writer not working!
michael85 said:
It's nice that it's a small one, but every USB device will work
I didn't have any, but have an USB Harddisk (IDE).
I attached a DVD player to the IDE connection for the harddisk and it worked.
I'm not using this everytime, but only used it for installation of SP1 and Office 2007 Enterprise.
Now my HD is putted back in his case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a similar one, that is LG GSA-E50L and it does not work properly...nothing helps, even SP1 could not make it work. The OS sees it and so does BIOS, i can even eject discs but it does not read or record any data !!! The device works excellently in my laptop/xp Media Center so it seems it is the problem of Vista...Who knows what to do?
ssaqu said:
I have a similar one, that is LG GSA-E50L and it does not work properly...nothing helps, even SP1 could not make it work. The OS sees it and so does BIOS, i can even eject discs but it does not read or record any data !!! The device works excellently in my laptop/xp Media Center so it seems it is the problem of Vista...Who knows what to do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using external power, or just the usb to power ?
Don't know that drive, i use a plextor, and it needs external power with the shift, or a usb power source pluged in the mini usb plug of the 3 port usb hub/lan device.
pusler said:
Are you using external power, or just the usb to power ?
Don't know that drive, i use a plextor, and it needs external power with the shift, or a usb power source pluged in the mini usb plug of the 3 port usb hub/lan device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cause the manual says it does not need any additional power plugs I used the equiped USB data cable (USB-mini USB) only. Another option suggested by the manufacturer that i used is USB data cable and DC-JackType USB power cable together that were pluged into 3 port USB hub from HTC...what exact model of the Plextor drive do you have, maybe i would buy one instead my LG...
my plextor is a PX-608CU
It dosnt need external power running on a laptop but i does when running on the shift,
On this drive there is 2 usb cabels, 1 power/data cable and one additional usb power cable.
even if i use both in the shift hub the is not enough power to use the drive unless i either use a miniusb powersupply to power the hub, or use external power to power the drive. (so the shift usbhub does not have that much juice in thats also why they made the powerplug in the hub)
Thank U Master !!!
pusler said:
my plextor is a PX-608CU
It dosnt need external power running on a laptop but i does when running on the shift,
On this drive there is 2 usb cabels, 1 power/data cable and one additional usb power cable.
even if i use both in the shift hub the is not enough power to use the drive unless i either use a miniusb powersupply to power the hub, or use external power to power the drive. (so the shift usbhub does not have that much juice in thats also why they made the powerplug in the hub)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It really is as you said; i would not have guessed that since the manual says it doesn't need additional source of power, but of course it does not refer to HTC Shift...so i really am grateful and i should also say sorry to MS for supposing some Vista bugs...
ssaqu said:
I have a similar one, that is LG GSA-E50L and it does not work properly...nothing helps, even SP1 could not make it work. The OS sees it and so does BIOS, i can even eject discs but it does not read or record any data !!! The device works excellently in my laptop/xp Media Center so it seems it is the problem of Vista...Who knows what to do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nooooooooo, i buy it three days ago.. and arrives next week!!
are you sure? the gsa-E50L don't work on htc shift?????
if you attach into shift directly? without usb hub?
please reply!!!
killer_t said:
nooooooooo, i buy it three days ago.. and arrives next week!!
are you sure? the gsa-E50L don't work on htc shift?????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read the thread it just need external power
For me its not a big problem since i bought the MP3450
witch have a usb power port that is always on.
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killer_t said:
nooooooooo, i buy it three days ago.. and arrives next week!!
are you sure? the gsa-E50L don't work on htc shift?????
if you attach into shift directly? without usb hub?
please reply!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine works ok when attached to the single usb port, but not when using the HTC hub... same goes for the 250Gb Passport drive.
I bought a slim wee LG DVD reader/writer, and also found that I had to use the USB power cable for the Shift to mount disks.
Question for the community: Windows Media Player refuses to play DVDs and pops up this error:
Windows Media Player cannot play DVD video. You might need to adjust your Windows display settings. Open display settings in Control Panel, and then try lowering your screen resolution and color quality settings.
Any suggestions for getting a disk to play without having to rip it first? Thanks!
Does anyone know of a slimline DVD player (not bothered about writer) that works with the Shift and will playback DVDs powered by the USB port only?
HTC Shift doesnt provide enough USB power for external USB devices!
Hi i use the following external DVD writer with my Shift ...
http://www.lacie.com/products/product.htm?pid=10986
The product is excellant and also has light scribe ... but let me assure u that though it works with a few laptops without external power, it doesnt work with shift. i have tried it without external power and though it's lights coome one and it spins also nothing is read... so u have to use an external power adapter with HTC shift if u wanna use an external dvd writer!
Realy portable printer, I would say Brother MW-140BT or MW-260 those are realy portable. Anyway either of them are too expensive.
I am using the old good Canon BJC-50 portable printer connected through the Delock USB Infrared adapter Ref. 61574.
Just wondering if a typical cell charger can provide enough power to power these three things. (or if it will even work properly)
1 The Phone
2 A USB flash drive
3 HML adapter
What I want to do is connect power to the USB splitter male (I already have a wall plug to USB female adapter) then with the USB female ends I will connect a USB flash drive and then use a male USB to male micro-USB cable to power the MHL adapter. The phone goes to the other micro-USB end of the MHL adapter.
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I want this for two reasons. 1 So I can play media from a flash drive to a TV or monitor and 2 (if this will even work) use it to connect a USB to XLR cable so that I can record with a better quality microphone to my phone.
I realize that the phone being able to recognize and use the flash drive or microphone may be an issue but I can take a chance on that if nobody can confirm if it will or will not work.
BTW: if you have not already noticed, we are finally starting to get some reasonably priced MHL adapters on fleabay now. They are ranging from around 20-26 CAD (one in picture is 26)
I would like to know as well, as that sounds like a great alternative to carrying around DVD's and stuff, maybe even an externally powered harddrive, would need extfat or ntfs support though for large files.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA Premium App
Linux reads NTFS hard drives and flash drives fine, so I am hoping that Android should also.
I was planning on getting the MHL adapter regardless anyway, and the other cables that I would need would only be like 10 bucks. So I am wanting to try it out since, like you say, opens up more options for portability that may replace other devices or at least take up less space.
I was mainly looking to see if I would hear a show stopper of why not to do this, like if this set up could damage something that is connected.
K3VL4R said:
Linux reads NTFS hard drives and flash drives fine, so I am hoping that Android should also.
I was planning on getting the MHL adapter regardless anyway, and the other cables that I would need would only be like 10 bucks. So I am wanting to try it out since, like you say, opens up more options for portability that may replace other devices or at least take up less space.
I was mainly looking to see if I would hear a show stopper of why not to do this, like if this set up could damage something that is connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will need a proper usb to go cable to connect the flash drive or hdd, i have connected a flash drive to my phone without any problems..
I would think you would need a custom kernels or ntfs-3G modules for the kernel you are using.
The big thing is if the phone can deal with being charged, output hdmi and connect to a HDD over the same usb port at the same time?
Maybe a powered hub?
Also wondering if there would be enough bandwidth on the bus to support that all.
The big thing that would be good for me is that I could buy a cheap self powered hdd, load it up with movies and stuff and watch it while at work where there's a lot of down time, and being able to charge and use tv out at the same time would mean I could watch the iplayer or something on the tv without having to worry about battery life!
Hey, connect a mouse and keyboard as well and your phone is basically a normal computer!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA Premium App
Good idea. This powered hub is almost as cheap as the splitter cable and should take care of any power requirements.
As for the on-the-go cable, I have different angled micro male to usb female cables already so that I can help take stress off the jack when using it while charging. My USB flash drive does not power up with this cable. I just assumed it needed external power. What is different about the OTG cable, did they twist some wires or are mine just meant for charging if they are not working ? All the pins are present and the cable is thick, so no reason why they would not just connect everything internally.
Thanks for the replies so far.
K3VL4R said:
Good idea. This powered hub is almost as cheap as the splitter cable and should take care of any power requirements.
As for the on-the-go cable, I have different angled micro male to usb female cables already so that I can help take stress off the jack when using it while charging. My USB flash drive does not power up with this cable. I just assumed it needed external power. What is different about the OTG cable, did they twist some wires or are mine just meant for charging if they are not working ? All the pins are present and the cable is thick, so no reason why they would not just connect everything internally.
Thanks for the replies so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In order for usb to go to work you need a special cable, its got a special pin that's grounded or floating or has a few different values depending, the cables are very cheap on eBay or there's guides on how to make them.
OTG won't work with generic cables im afraid.
I just want this idea to work myself :d
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA Premium App
Im sitting here with a SGS2 with a USB kb, mouse, and a flash drive connected to it.
SGS2> (usb to go cable) > Powered hub > Mouse + keyboard + flash drive.
To get random devices to work (not hubs, input devices) you will need to add the device ids, see this thread for more info, more info and some device/vendor ids and a huge list of almost every device/vendor id
Attached is a rules file with logitech and some other vendors, add and expand as needed!
Now I need to buy a micro USB > many micro USB's and a mhl cable!
The powered hub is a must or stuff just wont work due to the power draw.
Im looking at picture of the MHL adaptor, and they all have a USB port for passthough, so we can defo at the very least charge while outputting via it.
The big question now is if you can daisy chain and do MHL and OTG at the same time!
Well, unless on a lucky chance the USB port will work with a splitter, you cant do MHL and OTG at the same time. A real shame
Thanks for the updates and links veyka. It also looks like the OTG cables do not charge the phone with the jumpered pins, so I will have to make sure and mark the OTG cables when they get here.
I should have the rest of my cables arrive in about 2-3 weeks and will post an update of what will or will not work. Sounds like the OTG cable alone should work with the USB to XLR cable for a microphone, as long as I can find a way to get the phone to recognize it. Though it would be nice to charge at the same time as well which the OTG does not support.
Do you know off hand what the headphone jack will accept for inputs ? Will it take TRRS or TRS audio in as well ? I am just looking at more options for XLR to the phone for connectivity without needing a mixer. Then I will use a mixer as well to see how much of a difference the balanced XLR out will make.
K3VL4R said:
Thanks for the updates and links veyka. It also looks like the OTG cables do not charge the phone with the jumpered pins, so I will have to make sure and mark the OTG cables when they get here.
I should have the rest of my cables arrive in about 2-3 weeks and will post an update of what will or will not work. Sounds like the OTG cable alone should work with the USB to XLR cable for a microphone, as long as I can find a way to get the phone to recognize it. Though it would be nice to charge at the same time as well which the OTG does not support.
Do you know off hand what the headphone jack will accept for inputs ? Will it take TRRS or TRS audio in as well ? I am just looking at more options for XLR to the phone for connectivity without needing a mixer. Then I will use a mixer as well to see how much of a difference the balanced XLR out will make.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the end android should support anything linux does, you might need to build a kernel module (driver) or find someone that will for you.
You can get pretty much any input device going with the links above, but other stuff, I dont know im afraid
Hope lives eternal.
No clue im afraid
No problem bud. You have been more than helpful already. I already have a plethora of cables and devices for recording on laptop and PC with Windows and Linux. My Android uses for recording are so far purely just for practicing so that I have it down in case something of interest is created. So ease of use and portability is the main factor.
It also interested me just to be able to find different ways of recording since so much of it is done through software these says. The more knowledgeable I am with cables, signals and processing, the more options that I will have available to me. Though I still like to mic an amp then process afterwards.
http://www.dx.com/p/usb-3-0-female-...able-w-adapter-black-20cm-289081#.U4Sx-ii5IrM
Anyone use this or buy from this site? Seems cheap enough *lol* and free shipping to us Canucks! :laugh:
I think it would be the same with those listed on eBay, I bought OTG USB 3.0 and it works pretty good.
thanks for the info...
enroh said:
http://www.dx.com/p/usb-3-0-female-...able-w-adapter-black-20cm-289081#.U4Sx-ii5IrM
Anyone use this or buy from this site? Seems cheap enough *lol* and free shipping to us Canucks! :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i bought one of these from mobilepower on amazon, but it doesn't work. wanted it to power an external harddrive, but it was a no-go. my notepro recognizes that a usb connector was added, but doesn't mount the harddrive, even with the power pack attached.
however, i did get a usb2 otg cable and that works (pictured below). i don't know what the difference would be, perhaps i just got a dud with the usb3.
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-liquidquick
I've got one coming in in the next 21 days (HK shipping, lol) so I'll tell you what's what when it arrives over here.
In an effort to find a way to lighten my travel load just a little (normally travel with tablet and my macbook pro) for trips where I'm really not going to need the laptop I decided to try out using a 4-port USB 3.0 hub.
Just got it yesterday so I haven't put it through its paces just yet.
Here's a test setup I just tried using a USB keyboard, mouse, 500GB hard drive formatted exFAT, and a usb SD card reader. Test setup is powered by an Anker Astro2 9000mah battery and utilizes this USB OTG cable and this USB 3.0 hub.
At first the setup was a bit finicky. I had plugged everything in (the wire for the hard drive is the piggy back style where it has an additional connector for power) and the hard drive would not show up in file browsers. It wasnt until I unplugged all but the hard drive and ran the hub off of the tablet's power that the drive showed up. I then plugged back the power source and everything was fine after that as I inserted the keyboard, mouse and card reader. Further testing is needed but at least I know I can copy files from my DSLR cards to my HDD as a backup at my leisure back at the hotel on my next trip.
All of this is more proof of concept kind of stuff for me. When I travel I will be using a bluetooth keyboard and mouse that gets left in the hotel room along with the hard drive and hub. I'll carry around the tablet wherever I go but it's nice to know that in a pinch I can use it back at the hotel as more than just a tablet if I need to.
does that y-connecter power the tablet or the drive? my drive does not require power attached (its a USB3 WD Passport Ultra 500GB) but I need to power my tablet with the drive connected as i barely get over 3 hours of 1080p playback till I need to plug in.
if your cord doesn't I need to find one that does - if one exists...if not i may switch over to a Surface Pro 3 as it has USB3 fullaize and a sep. power connector...will buy a power inverter for my vehicle
muzzy996 said:
In an effort to find a way to lighten my travel load just a little (normally travel with tablet and my macbook pro) for trips where I'm really not going to need the laptop I decided to try out using a 4-port USB 3.0 hub.
Just got it yesterday so I haven't put it through its paces just yet.
Here's a test setup I just tried using a USB keyboard, mouse, 500GB hard drive formatted exFAT, and a usb SD card reader. Test setup is powered by an Anker Astro2 9000mah battery and utilizes this USB OTG cable and this USB 3.0 hub.
At first the setup was a bit finicky. I had plugged everything in (the wire for the hard drive is the piggy back style where it has an additional connector for power) and the hard drive would not show up in file browsers. It wasnt until I unplugged all but the hard drive and ran the hub off of the tablet's power that the drive showed up. I then plugged back the power source and everything was fine after that as I inserted the keyboard, mouse and card reader. Further testing is needed but at least I know I can copy files from my DSLR cards to my HDD as a backup at my leisure back at the hotel on my next trip.
All of this is more proof of concept kind of stuff for me. When I travel I will be using a bluetooth keyboard and mouse that gets left in the hotel room along with the hard drive and hub. I'll carry around the tablet wherever I go but it's nice to know that in a pinch I can use it back at the hotel as more than just a tablet if I need to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
enroh said:
does that y-connecter power the tablet or the drive? my drive does not require power attached (its a USB3 WD Passport Ultra 500GB) but I need to power my tablet with the drive connected as i barely get over 3 hours of 1080p playback till I need to plug in.
if your cord doesn't I need to find one that does - if one exists...if not i may switch over to a Surface Pro 3 as it has USB3 fullaize and a sep. power connector...will buy a power inverter for my vehicle
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doesn't power the tablet, it's meant to power the USB devices.
I'm no electrical engineer but I would imagine that once the tablet goes into USB HOST mode there are limitations as to where power is going to go and that the power is going to go to the external devices not the tablet. Still I've seen mention of cables existing that will power both but have yet to see any concrete evidence of them. Would have loved it if this one powered both ways but I simply have no need to work for hours on end with a hard drive connected to my tablet.
I would imagine that with power going to the hard drive with this cable though your video playback time would increase substantially, perhaps even double to 6 hours.
For me I just use mircoSD cards with my video content on them that I'll swap in/out of the tablet as needed.
I have yet to find evidence that anyone has successfully powered the tablet with one of the y-adapters while using another device. I prefer to use my external drive as it doesn't require power connection and is 500GB. Maybe I will have to go the pricier microSD card route and limit the amount of media I have on it.
Not ideal if you ask me. Not that the SP3 is perfect but at least power and USB3 are separate ports and at least 128GB though the one I am looking at is 256GB.
muzzy996 said:
Doesn't power the tablet, it's meant to power the USB devices.
I'm no electrical engineer but I would imagine that once the tablet goes into USB HOST mode there are limitations as to where power is going to go and that the power is going to go to the external devices not the tablet. Still I've seen mention of cables existing that will power both but have yet to see any concrete evidence of them. Would have loved it if this one powered both ways but I simply have no need to work for hours on end with a hard drive connected to my tablet.
I would imagine that with power going to the hard drive with this cable though your video playback time would increase substantially, perhaps even double to 6 hours.
For me I just use mircoSD cards with my video content on them that I'll swap in/out of the tablet as needed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I wish there was a better solution. I have a Kingston MobileLite collecting dust over here. I wished that it worked well but it just plain doesn't. Large high res video file playback is hit and miss and the software that Kingston put out for Android is ****e. In theory this thing would be perfect for what you want, a separate device that you could power and use to share your hard drive wirelessly to the tablet to stream. In practice . . useless as far as I'm concerned. I dunno, perhaps all I need to do is re-encode my library of files to a format that will work with this device combo but I'm just not motivated to do that.
Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
Got my Moto 360 2015 today and quickly realized that the main block to us getting any development on this is that we don't have a way to access it with a computer. I did a partial [very partial] tear down and noticed several pins that could be a usb interface. My question is what would be the most logical way of figuring out what pins do what?
P.S. I know there is a lot of talk about if there is a hidden speaker or not, while I wasn't able to get the watch apart enough to answer definitively it does look like the slot on the side corresponds to a hole under the plastic back... hopefully we'll know more soon.
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Posting this image for smartphone. Couldn't get it posted on his account.
I can't find the pins,,can you find it?
Hey,
Do you have some more information about the pinout? I have the same watch and I want to try connect it to USB, because I can't switch it on, and maybe with USB I can start some recovery mode or something like this.
I also found other "test pads" below the plastic cover with antenna. I found some pins, that I am sure about function. Below I wrote two links to images (I can't add attachment to post - just remove the spaces from the address below):
menuet. no-ip. biz/ images/ moto_360_2015_pinout_back.png
menuet. no-ip. biz/ images/ moto_360_2015_pinout.png
Here is description of pins on the images:
1-Power switch; 2-?; 3-?; 4-Battery; 5-?; 6-GND;
A1-?; A2-?; A3-Antenna; A4-?; A5-USB5V; A6-GND
Maybe you have some other info how to switch on this watch?
Best regards,
menuet
I know this is so old... but maybe someone that is passionate about electronics could find a way to connect usb cable...
There must be a way... The bootloader says this..
I was thinking that in @menuet pictures, A1, A2, A5, A6 could be the 4 wires that should connect to a usb cable
If you're looking to send adb commands to the watch why not use Bluetooth debugging?
https://developer.android.com/training/wearables/apps/bt-debugging.html
I know that... I was hoping to find a way to make a usb cable like for the first generation, and in this way to unlock the bootloader, root...etc...
The 1st gen had pogo pins -- have you checked the corresponding location of the second gen? I'm interested to find out if the layout is the same (although completely enclosed by the case).
stevemw said:
The 1st gen had pogo pins -- have you checked the corresponding location of the second gen? I'm interested to find out if the layout is the same (although completely enclosed by the case).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, didn't checked yet... I don't want to disaasembly my watch yet.. I just added some comments, maybe someone has already an old/broken watch an can check the pins...
@icysea and @SmartphoneER and @menuet posted some pictures that might be helpful...
I don't know electronics. I am just a programmer. BUt I asked one of my colleagues that knows, and he told me that doesn't recognize the new look of the wires...
I think that they made a special cable to access the bootloader...
P.S. I attached, @menuet 's pictures...
Thank you....
UPDATE:
found the full disassembly process: http://it.sohu.com/20160126/n435898447.shtml. It has more technical details...
I remember the white latex-covered finger tips. I came across this teardown a while ago but couldn't find it again.
hei... let's work together and find those PINS... Maybe someone has a broken watch that can use to find out where are the pins for an USB cable...
Motorola did a great job with hiding the pins, but everything that is done by human can be hacked by human....
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
found one more disassembly:
http://www.btspeaker.cn/thread-7582-1-1.html
UPDATE:
Also, seems like swapping the D+ and D- from the USB scheme, doesn't do any harm. Maybe someone can try this. I would have tried on my watch, but I am from Romania and my watch was bought from US. So, no warranty. And it's still functional, and working great....
See here for more details:
http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/73295/in-a-usb-cable-is-it-ok-to-swap-the-d-and-d-wires
This is going to sound weird but I have the second gen and it does appear to have an unlocked bootloader. I noticed because I bought this watch used and I couldn't update. The thing is the guy I bought it from didn't do it. The plastic ring is still on the watch so I don't understand how this was done unless they accessed the pins. Can you even do that over Bluetooth?
I'm posting here because I would need help in regards to this. Otherwise I'm screwed I guess.
You cannot enter fastboot commands through bluetooth... So, the only plausible reason will be that someone, somehow made an interface and unlocked the device..
P.S.
And this will be a very good information... I am waiting for so long for this to happen..
eltigre4jc said:
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am almost completely sure that the interface cable has to be built, upon those golden contacts.. If the original poster still has the watch or someone else, that has a broken watch., maybe can try to make an interface..
P.S. a link with another teardown, this time for Moto Sport http://imgur.com/a/yFb4s
eltigre4jc said:
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3965954&d=1481526286
These may in fact serve as the pogo pins found on the 1 gen watch.
stevemw said:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3965954&d=1481526286
These may in fact serve as the pogo pins found on the 1 gen watch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gosh, this is awkward. Well guys, i contacted Motorola and gave them pictures of my watch and they say I got a Prototype Watch.
My bootloader is already unlocked on this watch but there is very old user-build firmware installed. I would like to flash the latest one, but as i read this here, its not possible without an USB connection right?
Edit: my watch is also rooted! I debugged it with bluetooth and tried to shell it. I tried ls the /system dir which failed. But after i su'd it listed me the system directory and all files in it.
I removed the plastic ring from my watch so i am able to see the golden contacts now, and I am ready to try to create an interface if someone teaches me how to do that.
My aim is to flash a custom recovery to it like twrp. I noticed there is a moto 360 twrp recovery, so i guess it shouldnt be to hard to port this to the second edition right?
Edit: I am going to create an interface cable with that 4 pins..
Two pins I know, GND and 5V. The other two pins i will need to find out, but basically, if i found the correct ones and they are connected to the watch and the watch is in bootloader, and i do fastboot devices i should see the watch as fastboot device right? (To make sure the interface works ofc.)
I built an interface, but its not recognizing USB. It says unknown device, error while getting device descriptor or something like that. But I only get that device popping up in device manager when i am using pin A1 (no matter Data+ or data-). If i use A2 and a4 for example, then this device doesnt even pop up in device manager. So i guess A1 is for sure either data+ or data-
When it comes to driver stuff now i have no clue. I tried updating the driver and navigated to google usb driver located in android_sdk\extras\google but it said best fitting drivers were already installed...
So i got no clue what to do next now..
Yothri said:
I built an interface, but its not recognizing USB. It says unknown device, error while getting device descriptor or something like that. But I only get that device popping up in device manager when i am using pin A1 (no matter Data+ or data-). If i use A2 and a4 for example, then this device doesnt even pop up in device manager. So i guess A1 is for sure either data+ or data-
When it comes to driver stuff now i have no clue. I tried updating the driver and navigated to google usb driver located in android_sdk\extras\google but it said best fitting drivers were already installed...
So i got no clue what to do next now..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank for trying.. Now, can you, put a picture of the interface you built? And also, can you try to attach the watch through USB to a fresh system, that has no previously installed drivers?
Maybe you can look for drivers for the version one of the watch....
I know the problem looks similar but
I have a Fire HDX 7 that is not recognized by windows 7, two laptops. My huawei p9 is recognized perfectly. Recent amazon drivers are installed.
The device is not even visible in device manager, by can be charged by laptop. I have tried about 4-5 cables already on each of two laptops with win 7.
OS version 4.5.5.3
Any suggestion? Any way to check if it is hardware problem or software?
naixx said:
I know the problem looks similar but
I have a Fire HDX 7 that is not recognized by windows 7, two laptops. My huawei p9 is recognized perfectly. Recent amazon drivers are installed.
The device is not even visible in device manager, by can be charged by laptop. I have tried about 4-5 cables already on each of two laptops with win 7.
OS version 4.5.5.3
Any suggestion? Any way to check if it is hardware problem or software?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the HDX is not recognized in Windows Device Manager any of the three primary modes (unlocked FireOS, recovery and/or bootloader/fastboot) one of the data pins in the USB connector is likely damaged or otherwise nonfunctional. Be sure compatible drivers are available on the host; for whatever reason Motorola drivers seem to work best on Windows. Install the manager linked below; you do not need to launch it.
https://motorola-global-en-aus.custhelp.com/app/answers/prod_detail/a_id/86934/p/154,4222
Davey126 said:
If the HDX is not recognized in Windows Device Manager any of the three primary modes (unlocked FireOS, recovery and/or bootloader/fastboot) one of the data pins in the USB connector is likely damaged or otherwise nonfunctional. Be sure compatible drivers are available on the host; for whatever reason Motorola drivers seem to work best on Windows. Install the manager linked below; you do not need to launch it.
https://motorola-global-en-aus.custhelp.com/app/answers/prod_detail/a_id/86934/p/154,4222
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just tried that. No luck. Downgraded to 13.3.2.8 - no luck. It seems that the problem is with USB.
What I want is to install vanilla android on the device. It seems root can be acquired without USB, but bootloader not. So are there any good tutorials on how to take apart Kindle HDX 7? Checked youtube - not that detailed tutorials that I want probably.
Thinking to order a new USB and battery on aliexpress
naixx said:
Just tried that. No luck. Downgraded to 13.3.2.8 - no luck. It seems that the problem is with USB.
What I want is to install vanilla android on the device. It seems root can be acquired without USB, but bootloader not. So are there any good tutorials on how to take apart Kindle HDX 7? Checked youtube - not that detailed tutorials that I want probably.
Thinking to order a new USB and battery on aliexpress
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the same appx cost you can probably score a gently used HDX 7. Cracking open a HDX is not for the faint of heart due to copious use of industrial strength glue. Good luck.
Blame it to all Quick Charge 2.0 and 3.0 Chargers!
I almost have the same problem, Back to my old stock locked bootlader, everything was working fine, i can conmect my KFH on my pc and i can aldo charge using my tronsmart QC 3.0 charger, all of the happy moment was gone, until i've managed to unlocked the bootlaser(limeage 14.1 installed), the first thing i did'nt notice about it, then one day my kindle charges so slow, and i even cant connect it to my pc, looks like ive been screwed up, im still searching for solutions.. any ideas?
ChickenKyrie said:
I almost have the same problem, Back to my old stock locked bootlader, everything was working fine, i can conmect my KFH on my pc and i can aldo charge using my tronsmart QC 3.0 charger, all of the happy moment was gone, until i've managed to unlocked the bootlaser(limeage 14.1 installed), the first thing i did'nt notice about it, then one day my kindle charges so slow, and i even cant connect it to my pc, looks like ive been screwed up, im still searching for solutions.. any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HDX was not designed for higher voltage delivered by QC 3.0 chargers; may have fried some internals.
For reference, max uptake for a 3rd (and likely 4th) gen HDX is 9W/1.8A at 5V. That can be delivered by *ANY* decent charge brick rated at 2A or better. No need for a QC or other speciality charger. HDX devices can not take advantage of the capabilities of such chargers and may be damaged if proper voltage is not negotiated (i.e. anything significantly above 5V).
Seems my problem is usb connector
For anyone interested
The problem was in USB cable(the price about $8), I ordered a new one, replaced it and kindle is now fully recognized by windows!
Unfortunately, I've broken the glass So touch is not working for about 20% of the screen. So stupid mistake, pushed a little bit too much. Anyways I didn't use that kindle for at least 2 years, wanted to make it vanilla android
naixx said:
For anyone interested
The problem was in USB cable(the price about $8), I ordered a new one, replaced it and kindle is now fully recognized by windows!
Unfortunately, I've broken the glass So touch is not working for about 20% of the screen. So stupid mistake, pushed a little bit too much. Anyways I didn't use that kindle for at least 2 years, wanted to make it vanilla android
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the benefit of future readers: crappy cables are the root cause of most HDX USB connectivity issues. A cable that works in some scenarios (charging; adb) may not work in others (fastboot). No one wants to believe this as a cable is a cable, right? What could go wrong?? Read through 5+ years of posts where the eureka moment occurs only after swapping out the umbilical cord.
FWIW - I did not suggest a cable to the OP as he/she stated "4-5 cables" were already tried.
Davey126 said:
For the benefit of future readers: crappy cables are the root cause of most HDX USB connectivity issues. A cable that works in some scenarios (charging; adb) may not work in others (fastboot). No one wants to believe this as a cable is a cable, right? What could go wrong?? Read through 5+ years of posts where the eureka moment occurs only after swapping out the umbilical cord.
FWIW - I did not suggest a cable to the OP as he/she stated "4-5 cables" were already tried.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, there is some misunderstanding. I replaced usb port, not cable
Like this one
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naixx said:
Sorry, there is some misunderstanding. I replaced usb port, not cable
Like this one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah - I did misunderstand. Thanks for the clarification! This item (cause) was suggested in an earlier post. Glad you got it fixed - albeit not without panel damage. Tough break after getting it open w/o cracking the case or screen.
Wow, I was hoping that it was just the cable as in your first response (still agreed with DB126 that the usb cable is usually the problem in these situations). But it looks like this time it's the actual port. I am not happy to hear this. My cable works for adb with my pixel 2xl, so it's probably not the cable. :'(
Any ideas on how to fix the port without breaking my HDX like the OP did? I don't want to open it up if I can help it. Perhaps I can use a circuit tester to see which pin is not working well, and possibly bend it or otherwise fix it manually without replacing?