I just have no idea which pins I found ground and vbat by connecting to miracle box and checking pinout but rx tx unknown.. :/
If anybody is wondering what vbat and ground are as soon as I find a picture I will post it up. For reference vbat is is second from the top pin left of battery connector and ground is third pin down left of battery connector
Update. I found the pinout just needed to order a multimeter I also posted up boot logs for anyone interested. Not I just want to try to get into a root shell env
Last 2 pins are left of the of the lcd cable. Top is rx and bottom is tx
Related
I have an XDA ii which has been dropped causing the main connector in the bottom of the device to become detached from the pcb!
As the XDA ii is not under warranty (or if it is i do not have a recept for it as i brought it off ebay), i have managed to open the unit and successfully resolder the connector onto board.
The XDA ii now works fine except that serial port no longer works due the tracks on the board for pins 8 and 10 (the serial TX and RX pins) having lifted off the board with the connector! The problem is that i have no idea where these pins connect to on the board but i would imagine that there must be pull-up resistors or some other descrete components on the board where these lines could be connected to.
Does any have any idea where the RX and TX lines for the serial port connect to? (a circuit diagram would be handy! :roll: )
Many Thanks.
Rich
Anyone know the Manufacture?
Been searching and searching and searching for the manufacture of the new Asus Vivo tab RT 36 pin connector. I see from other posts (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1630300) that the manufacture of the Asus Transformer (TF101, 201, 700, etc) 40-pin connector has been identified as Tyco Electronics (TE Connectivity). I contacted Tyco (http://www.te.com) to inquire about this 36-pin connector. After forwarding the photos of the connector to an engineer, the sales person got back with me and informed me it was not a Tyco Connectivity product. I’m going to post pix of the connector, and the pinout that I have traced thus far, in case anyone else in working on the project.
Thanks
Jgrobert1968
Added 02/26/2013 (plus a few newer photos.......
I am so glad that others have gotten some use out of that schematic. I have searched and searched, and finally, got a break on the manufacture of the 36 pin connection. I happened to glance at the connector on the USB charger cable, and saw some writing. “LOTES 1233”. So, I Googled it and sure enough Lotes Co. LTD. Showed up. See http://www.lotes.cc/ I have sent an email to both the Main office in main land China and to their South Korea representative, Semsus Electronic Co., Ltd. I received a reply from the South Korea representative, which forwarded the message to the main office. Since China is on Holiday, I don’t expect a prompt reply. Sadly, the South Korea representative did inform me that the company does not have a United States distributor.
Posted below are a few more pix. The stats of the connector are that it is 15mm x 2 mm, the 34 data pins are set on a 0.5mm pitch (0.5 mm center to center) and are 0.2 mm wide. The Two power pins are 0.5 mm wide, set at 1.0 mm from the interface card edge (PCB that the pins are soldered to, to provide a platform of connection. The interface PCB is 12.0 mm wide where it slides into the actual connector.
Note of the connections: Both sets of USB data carrying pairs (pins 27-28 and pins 29-30) are capable of connection of a USB device.
Would love to have other’s input on any experiments with the pinout of this connector. I have a feeling that a USB 3.0 capability and Audio OUT signal also will be found to be capable via this 36 pin connection. I’m currently working on constructing my own homemade docking station for my Vivo Tab. A rep at Asus says he doesn’t know of any plans for such a device from Asus for the Vivo Tab.
TF701 36 pin connector
Did you get any more information on the pin layout and connector?
We are searching for the same information, but for the 36 pin connector used on the TF701.
Regards
Mod edit: As a violation of rule no. 5 of the forum rules THREAD CLOSED as duplicate of
Samsung Multimedia Dock - Pinout Guidance Required
Hello, So I have the following Samsung Multimedia Dock, which was working fine since a year or more. It was used pretty much regularly with Galaxy SIV (either with stock or extended battery ). I guess after prolong usage and atmosphere condition...
forum.xda-developers.com
Oswald Boelcke
Hello,
So I have the following Samsung Multimedia Dock, which was working fine since a year or more. It was used pretty much regularly with Galaxy SIV (either with stock or extended battery ). I guess after prolong usage and atmosphere condition the solder point on the micro USB connector internally got dry and got detached. Hence it stopped working.
Hence when opening it to have a look inside, I lost the sequence of 8 wires connected to the micro USB connector on both sides (4 on each side). The pins on the micro USB connector are marked numerically 1-8 , however I cannot see the same number on the main PCB, so I am at a loss to understand how to get them solded again , in which order and sequence.
It is I guess a 11 pin micro USB connector because the dock had HDMI, Audio Out, and USB in (OTG) connections and power charging all at the same time.
Case cracked open and the main PCB and micro USB connector are apart.
Close up of the PCB
PCB and microUSB
MicroUSB connector call it side A (4 small pin out number from 1-4)
MicroUSB connector call it side B (4 small pin out number from 5-8) (I was able to see which wires were connected on this side so I marked this side with a blue marker and did the same with the 4 wires loosely held on this side after detachment)
PCB wires close up. Total eight wires. Starting from right the order is Black->Yellow->Green->Red->Yellow->Black->Red->Green, each of the wire needs to go to a pin 1-8 on the micro USB connector.
I know there are no published schematics for this PCB and 11 pin Samsung connector, however I am relying on the electronic expertise of the gurus around to help and guide me.
Thanks for your guidance.
Hi Folks,
I am in need of wiring hardness for the MTCD (PX5) uni so i can connect to an external power supply so i can configure at home (no internet connection at parking lot).
I will use a computer PSU i have spare and connect to the head-unit but i don't know what cables i need and where to find them .
Any idea where can i find one ?
Thanks
Alex
ale_kons said:
Hi Folks,
I am in need of wiring hardness for the MTCD (PX5) uni so i can connect to an external power supply so i can configure at home (no internet connection at parking lot).
I will use a computer PSU i have spare and connect to the head-unit but i don't know what cables i need and where to find them .
Any idea where can i find one ?
Thanks
Alex
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
would like to know as well
in all devices that i tested at home i found you need at least a power supply of 12V 15amps.
Power supply i use here
As for connecting the unit Red and yellow wire to +
and black to -
best way is to get a Universal Male ISO Radio Wiring Harness
some units use a small thin red wire now just for signal.
your devices should have the a wiring schematic either glued to the case or in the instructions book.
make sure the unit is properly fused and get spare fuses before attempting the above.
I use a small sla 12v battery from wheel chairs and power-wheels. Then i have a couple of spare harnesses from ebay. The harnesses on these radios are generic and can be had for about $4 USD like this one Link
Hello,
I have the following HA:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IPS-4GB-RAM-Android-8-0-Octa-Core-Multimedia-DVD-Player-GPS-Navi-Stereo-Radio-for/32966326918.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dmQoxfP
I would like to configure this HA in house, my question is that it is possible to connect to a PC power supply? If yes, how?
Thanks in advance,
@neosnd On my unit I had a thick yellow (batt +12v) and thick black (ground). Thin red (Acc +) which is your ignition feed (so unit has a constant 12v on the yellow, red 12v+ turns the unit on)
On a computer PSU (search ATX pinout) like this: http://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF - you want to find a 12v (pin 11 or 12 - Yellow 12v+), ground (any "com" - pin 3,5,7 but in our case easier to use 24 (near 11/12)) and for our purposes you can just twist the red acc+ into the 12v power (yellow) so the unit is always on. If not just use one of the spare 12v. then all we need to do is short the "PSU on" (Pin 16) to any ground (pin 16 to 17 with a paperclip if you want to mcguyver it like I do) - then power switch on computer PSU turns the power on and off.
Check to see if your unit has a pinout on top, mine had a sticker saying which was the 12v, ground etc which I worked this out from. If not, google your car stereo pinout, see where the 12v, ground and acc+ feeds are and mirror them onto the plug to your unit.
Hope this helps!
Hello everyone,
Motivated by my tablet's failing USB connector and the great difficult of importing an original B&N charging dock (I'm overseas right now), I decided to try and see whether I could DIY a charging connector mysef, that would connect to the "quick connector" in the tablet's bottom.
First the good news:
I discovered that a standard 0.1" (2.54mm) PCB header like these has the exact pin size/spacing to make contact with the quick connector. So, no need to "fabricate" a connector from separate pins.
I used a digital multimeter to measure voltage on the pins, with the tablet both on and off, and with a USB charger both disconnected and connected, and apparently pin #1 (counting from the left when holding the tablet in landscape mode and looking at its front) is +5VDC, and pin #2 is GND (pin #3 seems to be a direct connection to pin #2 -- they are always at the exact same voltage --, and pins #9 and #10 seem to be +D/-D, not necessarily in that order).
Now the bad news:
I connected a 5V power supply to pins #1 and #2 as above (ie, +5VDC to pin #1 and GND to pin #2), but the tablet doesn' t react in any way (doesn't light up and show the "charging screen" when powered off, nor shows the "lightning bold" charging indicator in the battery icon in the notifier when powered on).
I tried changing GND to pin #3 (see above), with the same lack of results.
The moderately good news is that my attempt did not "fry" anything, the tablet kept working the same as before.
Does anyone have any more info on this "quick connector", or perhaps a better "solution" to my failing USB connector issue (I would be willing to disassemble and replace the USB connector, but I've searched Youtube and iFixIt to try and find a how-to-disassemble video, to no avail. The best I could find was these "internal photos" from the tablet' s FCC submission, but it doesn't show how to open it, and I see no screws nor anything -- not willing to try prying it open at the seams and risk cracking the case or worse).
Thanks in advance,
-- Durval.
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
tgp1994 said:
Durval,
I came here from your posts on the GitHub issue. You've done some interesting work so far!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear you like it!
tgp1994 said:
It's interesting that you found the pins are just like USB. I wonder if the Nook uses some sort of protocol to negotiate charging over the Pogo pins, like Apple devices put a resistor across the D pins IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be. I also remember that a long time ago (like, 2008) I had an original (pre-Android) Motorola Razr which wouldn't charge except in a computer or with Motorola's own charger. I was thinking of full-blow USB connect negotiation... but you are right, it could be just a resistor or something.
I'm just not too keen on connecting more 'stuff' into those pins by trial and error, specially the supposed D+/D- things... I've managed to not fry the device so far, but one never knows when one's luck is running out until it finally does...
tgp1994 said:
I know someone who's replaced the battery so they might be able to guide you with opening the device. Their discord channel is here (they also posted in the GitHub issue). You might be able to buy a cheap Micro USB port and solder it into the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the Discord link! I will be sure to contact them and learn what I can re: opening the device.
Cheers,
--
Durval.
Just keeping the thread posted: I posted a similar question on the Discord server linked above, here's what I got:
Ryzen5-3600 | iPhone 12 Pro Gold — Today at 9:13 AMIt's really difficult to open the Nook Tablet. Mine had a cracked screen so it was easier to open up the device. The screen is made out of this really cheap plastic, it breaks so easily. My guess is to get like a small plastic guitar pick and pry open the back.
[9:14 AM]
You might have to get like 3 or 4 for safe measures to help keep it open so it won't close shut again
So, I think it's better to refrain from trying and opening my Nook, at least for now ;-)
I'm trying to get a dock, when/if I get one I will open it and see for myself what the heck it does to make the Nook recognize it.
I will keep this thread posted.
Cheers,
-- Durval.
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
hugoyhu said:
Two years late to the party, but I recently purchased two of the 10.1" nook keyboard covers @ my local B&N for $5 each, to play around with. If my suspicions are correct, and this keyboard controller outputs USB, the first four pins left to right should be GND, (I assume D+, D-), then I assume VCC.
I might be wrong. But I'm fairly confident that GND is pin 1- continuity between the pin and the ground pin on the keyboard controller PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any luck? I bought the same keyboard for $4 at my B&N and just tore it apart. Turns out it only uses 5 of the 10 pins. The white box in the pic was pulled off so it originally did fit slightly more forward. Hopefully you can tell where it's supose to go.